Broken light switch

[Sailor]

While trying to neaten up the wires behind my dash, I broke off the "BAT" tab on the light switch. Is the anyway to save the switch by re-assigning the remaining tabs to give me 1. OFF 2. Head lights 3. Head lights & Tail lights?

[bofahs]

Is it possible that you might solder a couple inches of wire where the tab broke off? Then, you could crimp on a male blade connector and be back where you started!

[Sailor]

I tried soldering the tab back on, of course that didn't work. I will try your suggestion. Thanks.

[Glen]

Hi,
Not sure what switch you have, this is the back of the original 4 position switch.

[Sailor]

Farmall lite switch.jpg (19.06 KiB) Viewed 643 times

This is the one I have Glenn. When the "BAT" tab broke, I tried messing around with a meter to see if there was another way to route the 12v through the switch to the lights. But I couldn't figure it out.

[Glen]

Hi,
Too bad it broke, if you can't fix it, TM Tractor has a new switch, not sure if you have the 12 volt switch, this one is for 12 volts, it says.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/1048fp.htm

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

They also have a 6 volt switch. Not sure what the difference is other than dimming the lights part.

[Jim Becker]

I don't know if your switch maintains a connection from B to the non-HL end of the resistor when in positions B (or R if there is one). You can nip the resistor off and test that with an ohmmeter. If it does, move your B wire to the non-HL end of the resistor and remove the resistor. Swap your headlight and tail light wires. If it doesn't maintain the B to non-HL end of the resistor, I don't think you can get 3 lugs all electrically connected at the same time.

[Don McCombs]

I know it's gratifying to fix something yourself, but if all else fails, a new switch is available on eBay for 15 bucks, free shipping. Do a search on the part number.

[Puffie40]

They also have a 6 volt switch. Not sure what the difference is other than dimming the lights part.

6 volt stuff has larger contact surfaces to handle the higher current. The dimmer resistor will be a different value compared to 12v as well.

Sounds like you need a 3-position switch. Earlier farmalls had a 4 position switch which was low-high-dim-bright.

[Sailor]

Thanks to bofars and Jim, all my lights are shinning. I made up a pig-tail and soldered it to the Batt stub. I OHM'ed out the switch and found the TL lug still worked (this is a used switch, bought it not knowing if it would work at all) and hooked the head and tail lights to it.
Of course I've never had a problem that was an easy-fix. After I got the wiring figured out, I discovered that there was a faulty mechanical connection up front where the head lights were connected to another wire running back to the switch. I had to take the hood off to repair it.

[AL Farmall Boy]

I've had those exact lugs break off these light switches many times, or have found the BAT lug already broken off. When they get old and have been bent around, it doesn't take much. I'm not betting the replacement $15 look-alike switches are of the same quality but who knows. Very good idea to fix the original one this way. Thank you and hope it will save many original switches in the future!

[tomstractor]

I have the 6 volt 4 position light switch and the lights are on all the time. It was this way when I got the tractor. I have checked the wiring and all seems to be in the right place. Any ideas?

[ajhbike]

I bought that switch on ebay from Hamilton Bobs for $20 and it works fine

[Slim140]

I have the 6 volt 4 position light switch and the lights are on all the time. It was this way when I got the tractor. I have checked the wiring and all seems to be in the right place. Any ideas?

If you're 100% correct the wiring is right then I would say you have a bad switch. I would say your switch is good though and your wiring isn't 100% correct.