Aux hydraulic with fast hitch?

[J3 Driver]

So I’m getting ready to rebuild the touch control on my sons cub and most likely add a auxiliary circuit so we can make his blade angle.

Has anyone done this with a fast hitch/rear rock shaft and a helper spring. Looking for ideas on how to route things and where to place the valve.

Have the bypass block and just ordered all the stuff for the pump and touch control from tm tractor parts. Should be a fun project.

[ricky racer]

This is where I mounted mine. Though no Fast Hitch...

[tst]

here is a loader on the cub with a fast hitch, if needed I can take a close up of the hookup on the touch control

[Rick Prentice]

This is one setup I had. You could make the shifter to clear however you wanted. I made a plate that attached from the trans cover to the steering support, then bent the shifter to clear everything. A Cessna valve was used.

[J3 Driver]

This is one setup I had. You could make the shifter to clear however you wanted. I made a plate that attached from the trans cover to the steering support, then bent the shifter to clear everything. A Cessna valve was used.
IMG_0072.jpg

I'm liking this as it looks like it will clear the helper spring as well. Do you have any more pictures?

Time to start looking for a valve.

[Rick Prentice]

You might have to use Ricky Racer's style valve or tst's? I just checked Surplus Center and they don't offer the Cessna anymore in the 1 spool. Just make sure you buy a valve that has the adjustable relief feature to protect the cub's pump.Members here will help you through the do's and don'ts of an added system.
Rick

[J3 Driver]

Ok so I’ve been doing research on this and adding the bypass block. My question is instead of pullingoitbthe plug circled below can I drill another hole in the block on the top and brim the line out of the top instead of the side.

Here is the block that I purchased.

Also am I correct in my thinking that as long as I get an open center and use double acting cylinders I will only need two lines to the valve.

Looking at either the chief 220-906 or 220-940. Both of these are open center I think and have a pressure relief set at 1500 psi so I shouldn’t need a Separate relief valve either.

Are there any flaws in my thinking?

Thanks in advance.

[Rick Prentice]

My answer is NO if you are using the same block you bought, mainly because they drill straight up through the center of the block, then drill the back cross hole to meet the bottom hole. If you make a new block, sure. The problem is where the out pressure hole would be and the returned hole would be, the material between the holes would be real thin where they are located and take opposite paths. I have done it before having both pressure and return on the bottom, but your drilling has to be precise. Yes, it's my belief you only need 2 main lines, pressure into new valve and return from new valve back to t/c unit. Because of the built in relief in the t/c unit, you don't need to worry about the "power beyond" issue with the new valve. It usually is more than beefy enough so the side doesn't blow out. Hope you're following all this. I can be confusing sometimes.
Rick

[Rick Prentice]

And besides the 2 lines, pressure "in" and return "out", you need the 2 hoses going to your double acting cylinder. To clarify.

[Rick Prentice]

Also the 1500psi setting on the new valve is higher than I would be comfortable. The t/c is probably in that range. I've adjusted control valves down around the 1000psi settings and the system was happy, more than enough pressure. Don't forget- never start your cub till you're positive there's not any chance to "Dead Head" your system or you'll break something.

[J3 Driver]

Am I correct in that using an open center I can let the valve plumbed into the system even when not using it (ie not connected to a cylinder) and not hurt anything and have normal control of the touch control?

[tst]

yes and no, with the block installed you can use either or but not at the same time

[J3 Driver]

Does anyone know if a Duke 1500-1 hydraulic valve would work. It’s whatbis used on the cub cadets. I’m having a hard time finding specs on it and can’t tell if there is a built in relief.

[ricky racer]

Does anyone know if a Duke 1500-1 hydraulic valve would work. It’s whatbis used on the cub cadets. I’m having a hard time finding specs on it and can’t tell if there is a built in relief.

http://www.qccorp.com/sites/default/fil ... l_1500.pdf

[J3 Driver]

Found a valve to continue this build. A Danfoss 1500-BG.

Have to build a mounting plate and a handle for it then it will be a matter of routing lines.