3 point hitch build question

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Willy
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3 point hitch build question

Postby Willy » Sun Mar 25, 2018 5:49 pm

For the guys that have built a 3 point hitch for a Cub and used it for a while, I've got a question. If you were going to build one now, knowing what you do now, what would you do different? I'd like to avoid any pitfalls that aren't readily apparent.

Thanks in advance!
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Re: 3 point hitch build question

Postby Rick Prentice » Sun Mar 25, 2018 6:05 pm

One thing to be sure to factor in is with the lower lift arms. Make sure you have some sort of side to side limits on the swing of the arms at all times, like either diagonal chains or an adjustable fixed diagonal arm. If you have an implement attached and the setup swings too far sideways and the tire tread hooks onto one of the arms, it wants to carry every thing up and over with the tire rotation. Makes for some ugly repair work to something, maybe even yourself :shock: .

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Re: 3 point hitch build question

Postby ajhbike » Sun Mar 25, 2018 7:43 pm

Make the top link vertical support secure and test different heights so the arc is acceptable in the low, mid and high points. Experiment....you don't want whatever you are attaching to be tilted back our forward in the lowered position

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Re: 3 point hitch build question

Postby Willy » Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:10 am

Rick Prentice wrote:One thing to be sure to factor in is with the lower lift arms. Make sure you have some sort of side to side limits on the swing of the arms at all times, like either diagonal chains or an adjustable fixed diagonal arm. If you have an implement attached and the setup swings too far sideways and the tire tread hooks onto one of the arms, it wants to carry every thing up and over with the tire rotation. Makes for some ugly repair work to something, maybe even yourself :shock: .

Rick


Thanks for the reminder that I'll need to use a stabilizer arm between the lower arms. Stuff like that can easily get overlooked and get someone hurt (like me). I'm leaning towards the adjustable diagonal arm, but won't rule out chains as a temporary solution.
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Re: 3 point hitch build question

Postby Eugene » Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:30 am

I'm using crossed chains on my numbered Cub 154 and WD Allis Chalmers with 3 point. You will still get a bit of side sway but they work well. The only time the bit of side sway makes a difference is when when trying to back up a trailer. The chains are easily unattached if you need to work on the 3 point.
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Re: 3 point hitch build question

Postby Willy » Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:36 am

ajhbike wrote:Make the top link vertical support secure and test different heights so the arc is acceptable in the low, mid and high points. Experiment....you don't want whatever you are attaching to be tilted back our forward in the lowered position


Thanks for this idea. I've been trying to sort out how high I need to make the top link attachment, but I had one of those wake up super early and can't get back to sleep mornings and got an idea on that. (I sometimes get some of my best ideas like that) (sometimes some real stinkers after closer inspection)

I've got a bunch of C framing channel that came with the shop pretty much like this stuff:

http://www.halfen.com/us/2774/products/ ... roduction/

I didn't know the name for it until I googled it just now, just been calling it "that fancy c-channel". My late father in law got it out of an old shoe factory here when they were cleaning it out after the machinery went overseas.

Most of it is about 1.5" wide and 1" deep, but I do have a couple of shorter pieces of 1.75 x 1.75 that can be beefed up on the sides and back with angle iron. By using a couple of the 1/2" lock nuts and bolts for it, I can build a sliding adjustable top link mount that would let me adjust the tractor end of the top link as need.

I've made a "jig" for jacking both front wheels of the Cub off the ground at the same time from the smaller stuff where I can get the front off the ground using a floor jack and put jack stands under "jig". Worked great, so I know the stuff has some strength to it. I'll still back it up with angle as it'll be in a dead weight part of the lift so extra weight won't matter.
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Re: 3 point hitch build question

Postby Willy » Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:37 am

Eugene wrote:I'm using crossed chains on my numbered Cub 154 and WD Allis Chalmers with 3 point. You will still get a bit of side sway but they work well. The only time the bit of side sway makes a difference is when when trying to back up a trailer. The chains are easily unattached if you need to work on the 3 point.


From my teen years on the farm, our JD's with 3 point and stabilizer bars, still had a little sway as well. I suspect it's just the nature of the beast.
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Re: 3 point hitch build question

Postby Clip » Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:58 am

That stuff is called strut channel or by its trade name, Unistrut. Sounds like you've done sufficient testing to make sure it's up to your tasks, and if you mangle it you've got the chance to swap to something stronger.

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Re: 3 point hitch build question

Postby Willy » Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:41 am

Clip wrote:That stuff is called strut channel or by its trade name, Unistrut. Sounds like you've done sufficient testing to make sure it's up to your tasks, and if you mangle it you've got the chance to swap to something stronger.


Not sure I'd call it testing, but I needed to get both front end off the ground for a couple of days to get the wheels off for new tires and all I had was a floor jack and stands and that unistrut. I cut it to where it reach the stub axle on both sides almost touching the wheel hubs, put it open side up under them and slowly jacked it up until the wheels were off the ground enough to put the jackstands in close to the wheels. I eased it down the jackstands with the jack still holding some of the weight. Nothing crashed to the floor, so I guess it was a successful "not-a-test".

I also used some of it for my step to get on and off with. I welded the foot step I built on the end of it and bolted it to the plow depth control lever mount bracket. I jumped my 220lbs up and down on it several times with no problems.

Thanks for the trade name on it. I'd never saw any of it before I found the stash here.
Attachments
Stepping Upper.jpeg
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Re: 3 point hitch build question

Postby Jim Becker » Mon Mar 26, 2018 10:48 am

I don't have the time (or inclination) to try to explain it now. There are plenty of opportunities to do it wrong and end up with a hitch that doesn't work well or is outright dangerous. I'll leave you with 2 suggestions:

1) Go measure a factory installed category 1 hitch on some tractor. Do NOT get the measurements from a home-made or shop-built hitch, it is probably wrong. Get the horizontal spacing of the front of the lower links. Likewise, get the vertical distance from the front of the lower links to the front of the upper link. Then get the horizontal distance (front to rear) from the front of the lower links to the front of the upper link. Measure the length of the lower links. Duplicate all these dimensions in your hitch.

2) Make sure your top link mounting is strong enough. If a top link fails or comes loose, the implement can land on your head.

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Re: 3 point hitch build question

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:18 am

Willy wrote:.........

I also used some of it for my step to get on and off with. I welded the foot step I built on the end of it and bolted it to the plow depth control lever mount bracket. I jumped my 220lbs up and down on it several times with no problems.

Thanks for the trade name on it. I'd never saw any of it before I found the stash here.
Do not get overly confident with that test. My Howard Rotavator weighs less than you do. It's furthest point from the rear wheels is approximately 18 inches, so it's weight is distributed over the distance behind the wheels, not just at the end of it. When the Rotavator is raised, if I come off the clutch a little too quick it will raise the weighted front wheels off the ground.
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