Project 52

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AL Farmall Boy
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Re: Project 52

Postby AL Farmall Boy » Fri Mar 30, 2018 1:47 pm

You can always get a new replacement assembly from TM tractor. They are pretty quick. Tractor Supply has them but they aren't as good as the OEM one TM sells.
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Re: Project 52

Postby Clownfish » Fri Mar 30, 2018 2:23 pm

Search the forum for dental floss. There are several posts on using it to stop the leak.

staninlowerAL
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Re: Project 52

Postby staninlowerAL » Fri Mar 30, 2018 5:35 pm

lliberto wrote:........This is the first time I have ever messed with this type of bowl/shut off so I'm not at all familiar with it at all. Are the gaskets all the same size or will Tractor Supply know which one to sell me?
CARQUEST (and others) sells replacement parts. The fuel shutoff is a double seal/seat type valve, that's why it's necessary to either have the valve in the fully closed or fully opened position so the valve handle contacts the seat. As was mentioned, crud in the assembly will prevent it from sealing as it is a metal-to-metal contact seal, no gasket etc. Lots easier to clean and repair if you remove the assy from the tank. When you remove the L shaped handle you will probably have to unscrew it a bit, then loosen the packing nut completely before the valve handle can be removed from the body. You can clean/polish the valve body and seats with an abrasive material like valve grinding compound. A dremel tool works good also. Just clean all the parts really good before reassembly. BTW the screen goes on top of the gasket when you assemble the bowl and a nitrile gasket can be used in place of the OEM cork gasket.
fuel valve parts.jpg

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lliberto
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Re: Project 52

Postby lliberto » Fri Mar 30, 2018 6:49 pm

staninlowerAL wrote:
lliberto wrote:........This is the first time I have ever messed with this type of bowl/shut off so I'm not at all familiar with it at all. Are the gaskets all the same size or will Tractor Supply know which one to sell me?
CARQUEST (and others) sells replacement parts. The fuel shutoff is a double seal/seat type valve, that's why it's necessary to either have the valve in the fully closed or fully opened position so the valve handle contacts the seat. As was mentioned, crud in the assembly will prevent it from sealing as it is a metal-to-metal contact seal, no gasket etc. Lots easier to clean and repair if you remove the assy from the tank. When you remove the L shaped handle you will probably have to unscrew it a bit, then loosen the packing nut completely before the valve handle can be removed from the body. You can clean/polish the valve body and seats with an abrasive material like valve grinding compound. A dremel tool works good also. Just clean all the parts really good before reassembly. BTW the screen goes on top of the gasket when you assemble the bowl and a nitrile gasket can be used in place of the OEM cork gasket.
fuel valve parts.jpg


Can you explain a little more about cleaning the value and seat with grinding compound, please.

staninlowerAL
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Re: Project 52

Postby staninlowerAL » Fri Mar 30, 2018 7:09 pm

You can take any small rotating tool and polish the L shaped handle where it contacts the seats, probably even do it by hand with some course cloth. The interior of the body with the seats will have to be inprovised with something small like a dowel with maybe a small guaze type material pad that can be inserted, rotated and removed. Once you get the valve body disassembled you'll see what I mean. The inlet/outlet is not a straight through orifice, it's an offset passage so you'll need to be able to access it from both sides. Spray carb cleaner will help flush out the crud once you have it dislodged. I cleaned one up and it worked for a while then would not turn the fuel flow off. I resorted to a quarter turn 1/8 inch ipt valve mounted on the body outlet to solve the problem.
Valve+2.JPG

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Re: Project 52

Postby k hutchins » Fri Mar 30, 2018 9:11 pm

I've cut my own cork gaskets for years without a problem, and a sheet of material is fairly cheap and readily available.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

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lliberto
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Re: Project 52

Postby lliberto » Fri Mar 30, 2018 10:47 pm

Am I wrong in thinking that it has to be a problem with the valve and seat if it's leaking when the valve is off?

staninlowerAL
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Circle of Safety: Y
Location: AL (Southwest)

Re: Project 52

Postby staninlowerAL » Sat Mar 31, 2018 8:31 am

lliberto wrote:Am I wrong in thinking that it has to be a problem with the valve and seat if it's leaking when the valve is off?
IMO, Yes. If the valve is closed, there should be no fuel past the seat. Have you taken it apart and cleaned it internally? It might be obvious when you see the condition.

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lliberto
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Re: Project 52

Postby lliberto » Sat Mar 31, 2018 9:20 am

I did but nothing looks bad to me. Then again I'm not sure what I am looking at.
Last edited by lliberto on Sat Mar 31, 2018 9:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Don McCombs
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Re: Project 52

Postby Don McCombs » Sat Mar 31, 2018 9:26 am

Have you replaced the bowl gasket? Did you tighten the packing gland nut?
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staninlowerAL
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Re: Project 52

Postby staninlowerAL » Sat Mar 31, 2018 9:29 am

If there are any pits, or irregular surfaces it probably won't seal since it's a metal to metal contact seal. Replacements are available, the tank thread is 3/8 pipe, I believe. The outlet for attaching the fuel line is 1/2 x 20, same as a 5/16 automotive brake line fitting. Or an inline valve substitute.

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lliberto
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Re: Project 52

Postby lliberto » Sat Mar 31, 2018 10:10 am

Don McCombs wrote:Have you replaced the bowl gasket? Did you tighten the packing gland nut?


I haven't replaced the gasket yet. I need to find a replacement first. I might have to order it on-line. I did tighten the packing nut. However, when I did, it was then difficult to turn the valve.

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Don McCombs
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Re: Project 52

Postby Don McCombs » Sat Mar 31, 2018 10:24 am

lliberto wrote:I did tighten the packing nut. However, when I did, it was then difficult to turn the valve.

Then, back it off a tiny bit. My personal opinion (and it is only an opinion, since I haven't seen the tractor or photos of the leak) is that your problem is with the bowl gasket. It is the easiest and cheapest first thing to fix. Any auto parts store should have a gasket that would fit.
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lliberto
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Location: WV, Weirton

Re: Project 52

Postby lliberto » Mon Apr 02, 2018 2:56 pm

When I reinstall the sediment bowl should I put Teflon tape on the threads?

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Re: Project 52

Postby Indy4570 » Mon Apr 02, 2018 3:05 pm

lliberto wrote:When I reinstall the sediment bowl should I put Teflon tape on the threads?


yes
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