3 Point Hitch Build Update

[Willy]

I've got the mounting frame for the links fairly close to being done other than I'm debating a bit more bracing on the lower link mounts. I moved the old drawbar hitch up to the front final bolt holes so I can still put the cargo rack on it if I need to while working on the 3 point. If I'd have left it in the rear mounting holes, the lower link arms would be hitting it.

I've got Cat 1 hardware on it, but dimensionally, it's more Cat 0 in size and I'm seriously thinking about to just go Cat 0 all the way on it. After measuring around on it earlier, the link mounts are pretty much spot on for Cat 0.

I swear every time I look at that drawbar, I think it's warped some more.

[MiCarl]

Unless you've got a bunch of cat 0 implements I'd go with cat 1 hardware. The "limited cat 1" implements available for subcompact tractors seem like they'd be a good fit for the Cub.

Tractor Supply sells bushings that will let you mount cat 0 implements on cat 1 hardware.

[jsfarmall]

Mine was warped, put it in a press and bent it back. COLD no.heat at all. Will weaken it making it bend back easier.

[ajhbike]

Looks good, I wish I would have compensated for the draw bar because I use a receiver hitch for things too. Cat 1 if it works, but any of my implements (like grading blade) that are cat 1 work fine with cat 0 pins.

[Willy]

My 52" grader blade is for an ATV and uses a 2" square hitch receiver. I've been using it with an adapter I made to the Cub universal mounting frame under the tractor, but I can use it behind the Cub as well with the 3 point hitch and a receiver hitch. I might even be able to use my blade angle adjustment in the rear as well. I'll have to look into that some more.

Pretty much most of the implements I've got in mind I'm figuring on making myself to fit the Cub. Dirt scoop, boom pole and maybe a set of pallet forks. Probably more if I see a need for them. Before I started this, it had been decades since I'd done any fabrication or welding. I'm having fun getting back into the swing of it.

I went to Rural King yesterday evening and picked up a few Cat 0 pins and a top link (not much selection there, but the top link was a lot cheaper than what Tractor Supply wants for one). One reason I'm leaning towards Cat 0 is drilling those Cat 1 holes is rough on my old ancient drill press. It handles 5/8" holes much better than 7/8" even when drilling them in steps. The main reason I've got the Cat 1 pins in it now are to get a better idea of how long the lower link arms are going to need to be. I'll put some Cat 1 to Cat 0 adapter sleeves to get the holes back down to 5/8"

[ajhbike]

I use cat 0 pins for my dirt scoop on my super c and they hold up fine along with grading blade, boom, 2 row cultivator, etc. Should be fine for your cub stuff

[Willy]

I'm sure glad to hear that. I've pulled some pretty heavy trailer loads of stuff with a 5/8" pin in a 2" receiver.

I took the day off from doing any work on it other than taking a few measurements as we've had a bit of a cold snap and the shop is unheated. The first "implement" I'm going to make though is a 3pt drawbar with 2" receiver hitch.

Ordered what parts I need to complete the hitch this afternoon. Guess I need to start cutting some metal for lift arms.

[ajhbike]

I bought a couple of top links that work well. Let's you adjust tilt

[Willy]

Tilt and implement angle were drawbacks to using the drawbar with a 2" receiver hooked up to the rear lift that I did at first. I started to do a top link and put a "knuckle" adapter into the 2" hitch, but figured by the time I'd got all that done, I'd have been just as well to have gone with a 3 point. So, here I am.

I'm going to try to get out this afternoon and cut some lower link arm blanks out of an old road grader edge blade. It's a little over 1/2" thick and I can get about 2" of width out of it before the the curved edge becomes a problem. There's about 5ft of it left, so it should be more than sufficient. Hope I have enough cutting wheels for the angle grinder.

Edit: I was just looking at specs on the weld on link ends and the whole thing, ball and all is only .90 inch thick and 2" wide. Half inch thick arms might be a bit too thick. As usual, having to rethink things. This is one thing I want to have worked out before I weld them onto the arms.

[ajhbike]

What I did (because I didn't incorporate the 2" receiver into my build) was build a triangle that fits into the 3 point. Essentially it is a 1/2" bar across the bottom and 3/8" sides that flair at the top for a top link pin. I welded the receiver on the bottom flat bar. It is as easy to put on as putting the ball hitch into the receiver...

[Willy]

The drawbar and receiver are only on there temporarily until I get the 3 point working. And I measured yesterday and they're pretty much unusable the way I've got them set up under the Cub. So, next time I'm under it, the drawbar is coming off.

After I got the lift arm "blanks" done this afternoon, I started a new 3 point receiver frame much like you describe. I'm using a piece of old 1/2" thick flat bar about 1 1/2 wide that is about 20" and forms a U on the ends that stick up about another 6" on each side. I've got another small 2" receiver that came from Harbor Freight for an ATV I'm going to weld to that and then add some more pieces to go up to the top link.

My link arm ends are supposed to be ready to pickup early next week (Walmart.com and under $9 each). So the lower link arms are on hold until then, but in the mean time, I've got other bits that need to be done so I can stay busy with it.

[ajhbike]

Amigo....there are always bits to be done! Sounds like a good plan.

[leeboy50cub]

Looking good willy , more pics when you get them.

[Willy]

Not much going on with it this week. I had to go pick up some pieces at Tractor Supply and the rest of the week is going to be ate up with Dr appts for Mrs Willy and her mom.

[Willy]

Looking good willy , more pics when you get them.

Thanks! Mostly what's going on now is a lot of small stuff.