Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

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hacoates1
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Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby hacoates1 » Wed Apr 11, 2018 3:35 pm

Before I begin, my name is Ashley and I'm new to the forum. I purchased my cub about a month ago. It is a 55. I've pulled the head, replaced the spark plugs, changed the oil, changed the coolant, inspected the lifters, changed the oil pan gasket, and the engine is running good. I know I need to split the tractor because the clutch isn't pushing back on me much. I have to use my foot to pull it out all the way after I get started. It does engage fine but it is very close to the end of clutch pedal when it disengages. If I push it too hard it almost starts grinding.

I was driving the cub clearing some small one inch or less pine tree stubs that I had cut down with a hatchet when all of a sudden the whining noise the tractor always makes stopped abruptly. I was assuming the noise was coming from the transmission or clutch to begin with. I'm almost positive that it would whine all the time, not just when in gear but because it has gone silent I can't be 100% positive about that.

When I mean silent... I can't believe the engine is even running now. It still runs, shifts, hydraulics (with another noise but so low I probably couldn't have heard it over the original noise)... It feels like I'm floating when it's moving its so quiet. The PTO engages still with no problem but I haven't used the PTO yet since I've only had the scraper on the tractor since I got it.

My main question is, should I not drive it anymore for fear of damage or keep using it until I have time to split it and check everything out?

:help:

Ashley Coates

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Glen
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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby Glen » Wed Apr 11, 2018 6:50 pm

Hi,
Welcome to the website.
I would change all the oils in the Cub, if you haven't, or at least check them to be sure they are not low.
There are 3 separate oil levels to check and change at the rear of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.
The trans commonly gets water in them, from rain, or condensation inside them. The water would usually be sitting in the bottom of the trans, where the drain plug is, if the cub has sat for some time, or can be mixed in the oil too, the oil looks thick and brown if water is mixed into it.
You can see the drain plug from under the platform. The oil level plug is low on the left side of the trans, fill it until oil comes out the hole, it only uses 3 1/2 pints. The filler plug is just to the rear of the shifter, on top of the trans.

Below is the 1955 Cub owner's manual. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication.
The experts on here recommend that everyone read the owner's manual for their year of Cub.
There is a table of contents on page 1.
Page 25 has the Lubrication Guide pic, showing the places on a Cub that need lubing.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

There is a page gone from the lubrication section in the manual above, page 29.
You can use this manual, the 1950 owner's manual to find the missing lube info. Don't use the electrical system info, it is different than a 1955 Cub originally had. :)

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It sounds like the clutch pressure plate fingers are low, and need adjusting, or the throwout bearing is worn down, it has graphite material that can wear down.
The 3 pedals are supposed to have springs under the platform that pull them up to the edge of the platform, check to see if they are there, it can wear the throwout bearing if the clutch pedal spring is gone, then the pedal is not fully up when your foot is off it.
It sounds like the clutch pedal might be tight at the base, a common problem, they are supposed to be oiled where the pivot goes into the clutch housing, at the base of the pedal. The pedal should work freely, you can feel at the top of it's travel, there should be 1" of free play there, except for the return spring pulling it up.
Use some penetrating oil and put on the round base of the pedal and work the pedal to loosen it up, repeat oiling and working the pedal, it should loosen eventually. Then oil it with motor oil.
If the pedal is free, it should move out of the housing 1/4", that makes it easier to put oil on it, push it back in when done.

The only whining sound on a Cub that I have heard start or stop is the Touch Control, the noise can start or stop any time. There is nothing wrong with that, that I know of.
You should check or change the Touch Control fluid also, it should be filled to the filler plug hole when the arms are in the rear or down position, not the ahead position.
It tells how to change the fluid in the 1955 owner's manual, on page 64, be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4 to remove the air from the system.
Nowadays, the Touch Control uses Case IH Hy-Tran fluid, it is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure before buying one that it works with IH systems.
It holds 3 1/2 pints of fluid, that's less than 2 quarts.
Last edited by Glen on Wed Apr 11, 2018 10:10 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby Waif » Wed Apr 11, 2018 7:05 pm

Welcome.

Check your clutch pedal for adjustment when you get into the owners manual.
When checking your fluids as suggested ,don' t forget the fan.
Not knowing what whine noise you had ,check your belts too...
Could be your alternator ,but if it is charging as usual ......

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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby Crimson Tim » Wed Apr 11, 2018 8:11 pm

My theory was that the noise was from the hydraulic pump and the nut and drive gear just fell off into the oil pan.... but then you said they hydraulics are still working.... :big give up:

If the noise was there regardless of whether you were moving or stationary or whether the clutch was in or out, then there’s not a lot remaining: hydraulic, alternator/generator, belts, fan... how is your fan bearing? Have you oiled it per the procedure in the manual? It might by worth taking the belt off to check that for either being too tight or too loose. It should spin smoothly, but not wobble on the shaft. If the fan fails, it tends to take the radiator out with it, so you don’t want that.

There are plenty of people here with more experience than I (like, just about everyone), but I’m still thinking hydraulics. Do the hydraulics still function the same as before? Did they have a load to lift when you tried them, or did you just verify that they moved when unloaded? Might they be slower/weaker? I wonder if the valve that controls the hydraulic pressure failed, such that it is still pumping fluid at, I dunno, 100 psi instead of 1200 psi. It would still move an unloaded rockshaft at low pressure, but maybe not produce the whine without the high pressure?

Actually, one last thought: how’s your oil pressure? Never heard of an oil pump failing, but I suppose it’s possible. You should have oil pressure reading on the gauge within 20 seconds of start up. If not, shut it down and try priming the pump through the oil filter hole (does someone have that picture handy?) and try again. If still no oil pressure after priming, DO NOT RUN!

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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby jsfarmall » Wed Apr 11, 2018 9:12 pm

If it whined while sitting still in the transmission then that sounds like a bearing on the input shaft. I can be very wrong and for your sake I hope so. Easy fix but gotta split the tranny from the torque tube
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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Wed Apr 11, 2018 9:22 pm

Have you had your ears cleaned out lately? :P
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!

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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby outdoors4evr » Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:27 am

Did the kids leave for the weekend? (no wonder the whining went away)
I'm allergic to handles. My reaction is whining a lot when they are nearby. Shovel Handles, Rake Handles, Pitchfork Handles, etc.

Maybe just add some cheese and crackers to go with that wine!
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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby Stanton » Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:44 am

Welcome to the forum, Ashley!

Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

Glen has provided a link to the Owner's Manual, but after your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the free PDF Manuals. They are located via "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals". Through that link, you'll be able to download an Owner's Manual (very strongly recommended) and any service manuals that interest you. Implement Manuals are also available.
Might also enjoy reading through this thread: What to do with a Cub you just brought home

I had a generator belt that was undersized (width) and it would whine loudly when I selected High Charge rate. When I replaced the belt with the proper one, it fixed the whine. The fact that yours whined then stopped tells me there was a constriction, or friction, happening somewhere before, but not now. Check your fluid levels, especially your engine oil. If it's raised any since you changed your oil, then hydraulic fluid may be entering your engine through the hydro pump. Check the fan hub and oil per Manual. Check your belts for any sign of wear and if they appear to be pinchin the pulleys.

Glad you joined us.
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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby Jim Becker » Thu Apr 12, 2018 8:27 am

Does the noise come back if you move the hydraulic control lever to the extremes, front or back and leave it there?

hacoates1
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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby hacoates1 » Thu Apr 12, 2018 2:50 pm

Thanks for all the responses. I had checked the engine over very thoroughly but didn't check the transmission oil level since I got old Bessy. When I got home I checked and it was bone dry.

I filled the transmission and never saw any overflow (couldn't locate the overflow port) but saw the level rising. I will check the manual for the location of the overflow and the drain.

When I started her back up, she sounded normal again. I'll probably split the tractor as soon as I can afford new clutch parts and check everything out. Driving around again everything sounded ok and noise. The shifting sure is smoother. Good thing I only put about an hour on without oil in the trans.

Ashley

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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby Stanton » Thu Apr 12, 2018 3:11 pm

Good to hear.

Cannot stress enough checking the Manual and thoroughly going through any new-to-you tractor. You never know what the previous owner (PO) has or has not done. The overflow plug is a square headed pipe plug located on the left side of the tranny, between it and the fender. Left as you're sitting on the seat facing forward. Remove that pipe plug and add your tranny fluid. When fluid starts to come out of that opening, the tranny is "full". Replace overflow plug and top fill plug.
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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby Glen » Thu Apr 12, 2018 5:25 pm

Hi,
When the transmission is filled to the proper level, you cannot see any oil looking in the filler hole, on top of the trans.
It is a long way down to the oil level from the filler hole.
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the trans case.

The 1st pic is the left side of the case. The level plug is the small square headed plug low on the side of the case. It is a little to the left of the center of the pic.
If you have the under axle exhaust, the plug is down by the muffler.
You can see how far down it is from the filler plug to the level plug.

The 2nd pic shows the bottom of the trans, and shows the drain plug. It is the square headed plug. You have to get under the platform to get to it.

A clutch doesn't need replacing just because it is old, if it is still good. My opinion. They have said on here before that the old original clutch pressure plates are better quality than some of the new replacement pressure plates. Some of the new ones have problems, and the people have to split the Cub and replace them again, after a short time of use.

The pressure plate fingers have to be set to the right height after putting the clutch on the flywheel. If they are too low, the throwout bearing can hit the pressure plate, without releasing the clutch.
The fingers can be adjusted without splitting the Cub, through the hand hole under the clutch.
The throwout bearing needs greasing through the hand hole also.

You could look in through the hand hole with a light, and see how the throwout bearing is, if it is good, or wornout. Page 56 in the owner's manual shows the clutch.
The material sticks out of a new throwout bearing 5/16", if it is worn down lots, it needs replacing.

The 3rd pic below is a pic of a new throwout bearing.

The 4th pic shows where to measure to adjust the pressure plate fingers, the guys on here say to set them to a height of 1 1/4" measured at the 2 places marked in the pic. They are measured with the clutch assembled on the flywheel, not off, like in the pic.
If you want to replace the parts, the guys on here say TM Tractor parts, at the bottom of the page, has good quality parts.
Attachments
Cub trans 10.jpg
Cub trans 12.jpg
Cub 2.jpg
Cub clutch 3.jpg
Last edited by Glen on Thu Apr 12, 2018 7:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Help! The whining noise STOPPED!!!

Postby Glen » Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:57 pm

Below is a post showing how to adjust the pressure plate fingers through the hand hole.
You will have to make the tool shown in the post. The end that measures the finger height has to be accurate.
The 3 fingers have to be all the same height, and form a flat surface for the throwout bearing to push on.
Dale Finch has said that it helps make the job easier to loosen the clutch pedal adjustment, at the base of the pedal, and back the throwout bearing away from the fingers as far as it will go, then when you are done adjusting the fingers, you can set the free play adjustment again, which is 1", measured at the surface you put your foot on.

viewtopic.php?f=141&t=66543

If you split the Cub to replace parts, check the throwout bearing holder, the holes in it can wear, then it won't work right. The holder has to hold the bearing straight up and down, by squeezing the bearing from the sides, if the holder is not squeezing enough, the top of the bearing can flop down, and hit the pressure plate fingers.

The holder also has to hold the bearing in the correct place left to right, it cannot slide left to right on the pin at the top of it. It should be checked to be sure it is making the bearing touch the fingers in the right position left to right.

The holes at the top of the holder can wear, and the long pin holding the holder to the clutch housing can wear. Replace them if worn.
TM Tractor has a new holder and pin.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor for new pedal return springs.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/864fp.htm

Below is a pic of one of the pedal return springs, under the platform. It is on a brake pedal, but all 3 pedals have a spring in the same position.
The 2nd pic shows a clutch housing and throwout bearing, and holder.
Attachments
Cub 1.jpg
Cub clutch housing 3.JPG


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