Poor Man's Restoration

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rockfarmer
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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby rockfarmer » Sun May 13, 2018 4:44 pm

Thanks toehead. Before taking to your advice, I got the bearing puller to bite into the groove on the outer race and pulled it,
47 countershaft bearing retainer.jpg

47 tranny bearing puller.jpg


just enough to break the 70 year old "bond" before the puller came off. I then took a 3 lb sledge hammer and with 3-4 good taps the shaft broke free.
47 empty tranny diff case.jpg

47 tranny disassembled.jpg

Just curious, for the next time, what is the best way to cut the race(s)?

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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby Shane N. » Sun May 13, 2018 7:23 pm

Tim, I’ve used a cut off wheel on a grinder or a torch to cut races off. Depends on where they are located and how easily accessible they are. Have to be careful not to cut into the shaft though.
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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby Stevetractor » Wed May 16, 2018 3:49 pm

Don’t forget the reverse idler shaft and bushing. When these get worn they help to make transmission very noisy. I take my new bushing, gear, and shaft to machine shop for install. Very tight tolerance for bushing and needs to be reamed. The shaft can be turned 180 degrees when put back in because they wear heavier on one side. If you can catch a nail in it where it’s worn, I get them to make a new shaft.

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rockfarmer
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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby rockfarmer » Thu May 17, 2018 12:24 am

Funny you should mention the reverse idler gear. I just happened to have a new one that someone talked me out of using recently, and installed it today :D

Noticeably different than the original,

47 Reverse idler diameter.jpg




47 reverse idler vs new.jpg


Reverse idler comparison.jpg


New gear has a thicker bushing while both ID's are the same.

47 new reverse idler.jpg

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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby Stevetractor » Thu May 17, 2018 9:50 am

That’s funny rockfarmer. I will warn you though... I still have a new reverse idler I’ve never used. I installed on a restoration job and before paint I tested out the tractor. Transmission was noisier than when I started with all new bearings and a new drive shaft. Ended up pulling off finals and draining oil from transmission. With tractor well cribbed, I removed top cover and washed all oil from gears with clean varsol. Then started engine and added gear oil to each gear selection, and come to find out it was the reverse idler. Installed new bushing in original one and rotated shaft 180 degrees and transmission is now quiet as a church mouse. Not sure how fussy you want to be but I can’t stand the howling Cub. Hope this helps someone :tractor:

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rockfarmer
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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby rockfarmer » Sat May 19, 2018 10:37 am

While installing the shift rail detent balls, I kept having to fish them out of the differential housing with my trusty light magnet and :idea:

47 magnet assist.jpg

Magnetizing the rail just enough to hold the ball in place until it can be depressed. I'm sure some of you have already figured this out.

Buttoned up the transmission and installed new PTO bearing and seal,

47 Tranny re-built.jpg


47 pto bearing.jpg


47 PTO done.jpg


When re-attaching the PTO shifter, I remembered it having a unique mounting plate.
47 original pto shifter.jpg


I could not get the bolt holes line up just right so I installed an aftermarket shifter (on the shelf) and it works fine. I had a similar issue with Rocky and the PTO shifter.

Most times, PTO shifter issues are related to the collar not going onto the input shaft far enough, and popping off and/or eating the end off the input shaft. In my case with Rocky and maybe this one had a similar issue before, the collar would not come off the input shaft, keeping the PTO live at all times. A slight bend of the lever, similar to the one pictured above, was enough to move the collar off the input shaft.

Anybody know what might cause this effect?

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rockfarmer
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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby rockfarmer » Mon May 21, 2018 9:05 am

In being a poor man's restore, and hopefully a full restore in the near future, I found the most widely used and economical coating available, for short term water protection, and applied a liberal coating to all the surfaces.
49 clear coat.jpg


Even the runs and drips disappear :D
47 under deck.jpg


With the backend rebuilt and working forward, I found the clutch and throw out bearing next on the list. Split the tractor and found a pleasant surprise,
47 Throwout bearing.jpg

Original bearing with plenty of graphite. No grease though. Took 40 pumps from a small gun before grease emerged from the hole on top.
The clutch was not engaging completely so I knew it needed adjusting at the least. The fingers were all set perfectly at 1 inch, not 1 1/4 inches.
47 Clutch.jpg


The problem is there is not enough thread available to adjust the fingers out any further, so I replaced the clutch with a new kit including the wear disc and clutch plate.
47 new clutch install.jpg

and cleaned the remaining acorns, nests, and other debris from the torque tube.
Attachments
47 Tube cleaned.jpg

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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby Bill Hudson » Mon May 21, 2018 10:49 am

Tim,

You're doing a great job. I enjoy following along as you continue your restoration.

Bill
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rockfarmer
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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby rockfarmer » Mon May 21, 2018 12:20 pm

Thanks Bill. I wish you were my neighbor!

Just like many others on here, I enjoy sharing the experience with fellow cub owners, not to mention the professional advice and feedback that's always offered. I am still holding on to some hope that I can make it to Barnyards next weekend to enjoy that experience. It's not looking good, but with my schedule, it could change between now and then.


Here is another "find" I am not sure about. Looks like it is missing the lead blob on the topside wire,

47 Throttle control tab.jpg

47 governor High idle control.jpg


While cleaning the dirt and grease off in preparation to remove the governor, I discovered the wire embedded in the gunk. I carefully removed the debris because I did not want to break anything. It is apparent that it is a tamper proof device and has to be compromised in order to remove the governor. Looks like it has already been tampered with or fell off?

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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby Bill Hudson » Mon May 21, 2018 12:55 pm

rockfarmer wrote:I wish you were my neighbor!



Tim, remember that is a twoway street. :D :D

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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby staninlowerAL » Mon May 21, 2018 2:13 pm

The tamper seal was installed at the factory or after dealer work on setting the governor. It might have just broken with old age (sometimes I feel that way). :lol:

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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby Jim Becker » Mon May 21, 2018 7:20 pm

It should be a single loop of wire going through both bolt heads with a single blob of lead holding the two ends of the wire together.

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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby Glen » Tue May 22, 2018 12:12 am

Hi,
The guys on here have said they buy longer adjusting screws for the pressure plate fingers, if they are too short. They might have said from McMaster Carr, but I'm not sure.
You need to get screws as short as will work, so the ends of them don't hit the throwout bearing.

The end of the governor seal wire with the lead, that is hanging down, originally went up to the top bolt, the high speed limit bolt, and the end was part of the wire going through the hole, on the side of the hole we can't see in the pic.
I think that is right, hard to see it without being there. :)

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rockfarmer
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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby rockfarmer » Tue May 22, 2018 7:53 am

I forgot to post a picture of the rear crankshaft retainer find. It's hard for me to tell if it has been replaced or if it is the original.

47 retainer.jpg

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Re: Poor Man's Restoration

Postby tst » Tue May 22, 2018 9:49 am

that is a factory type seal rubber seal


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