1948 cub wire diagram.I do not have a good diagram to rewrite my cub

[jsdorn]

I would like to know what the wiring would be for my 1948 Farmall cub.I bought the cub not running and did not see the wires were cut

[Jim Becker]

Here it is. Click it to enlarge.

[jsdorn]

The f terminal is not used in your diagram on the voltage regulator why is that?

[Jim Becker]

The F terminal can be used if the tractor has no lights (no light switch).

[jsdorn]

I have another problem I replaced the rings,the valves and the rod bearings rebuild the starter new Magneto I used a rebuilt kit for the carburetor new plugs new wires I can not get the tractor to start what am I missing?

[staninlowerAL]

Assuming you are saying the engine will crank over with the starter but will not start. Since the engine has been apart, lots of things to check but start with #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke, the rotor must point to #1 dist cap tower/wire to #1 plug. Set the mag so that it fires when rotated with the engine at that position. The rotor and pinion gear must be in time also. Valves adjusted to .015, be sure there is fuel to the cylinders. If your mag will not fire, suspect a faulty coil.

[jsdorn]

I checked all you said i should check.I think it may be my carberator.What would be a good replacement that does not cost a fortune.My engine serial number is
251341R1

[staninlowerAL]

The number you posted looks more like a part number that is cast into the metal than a serial number. The SN is a stamped number into the block casting and located behind the carburetor on a machined boss. IH carbs will interchange on all C60 engines. A zenith for a C60 will also work but might need a bit of tweaking for the linkage and manifold on a 1948. That said you can buy an aftermarket carburetor for a wide range in price (search for several topics of recent discussions) or rebuild your OEM carb for a lot less cost and should function just as well or better. You can get a good kit or individual replacement parts from sellers like McDonald Carburetor or Forum sponsors like TM. If you disassemble yours, just remember to pull the top and bottom halves straight apart. Do not twist or rotate the two parts to avoid breaking the idle jet tube.
EDIT: Is your magneto system working with an internal or external coil? Do you have a spark at the points? At the plug? At the Coil? Is your system 6v pos ground or 12v neg ground? There's lots of things that need to be verified before getting into the carburetor. JMHO.

[jsdorn]

Ok I noticed wetness at the head gasket.I removed the head and found water in the cylinders The head gasket did not look like it did any thing,when I installed the head I torqued the bolts to 48 ft lbs like i seen on Farmall club.Could I use the same gasket and apply a aviation sealant or should I get a new gasket.It looks like it was not used.My tractors serial # looks like
22206 the number is not to easy to make out except the 222 is very plain.My magneto has an external coil and iis 6 volt positive ground.Also should I replace the crankcase oil.

[Slim140]

Did you drain the coolant out of the engine before removing the head? If it were me I'd get a new head gasket no more than they cost. I would get new head bolts as well, they only stretch a little then they break. Also use some kind of non hardening sealant on the bolt threads on reinstall since the bolts go into the water jackets. Be sure and use the proper torque sequence as well and do them in increments up to the final torque.

[Bob McCarty]

Also, spray both sides of the head gasket with Copper Kote or something similar.

[staninlowerAL]

on Shane's recommendations. When you check the rotor/pinion be sure the timing marks are matched. Points gap is .013 and since you are using an external coil the input from the switch should be neg to match your battery ground and pos to the mag terminal. Do you have a ballast resistor in the power feed to the mag? If you have a 6v coil you do not need one. As for replacing the engine oil, you don't want any water in the oil. I suggest draining the oil to check and if no water shows you could reuse the oil until it needs changing again.

[jsdorn]

I did drain the coolant before I removed the head.What is copper coat and where do I get it,As far as non harden sealant would aviation sealant work? on the threads? So would you recommend I not use sealant on the head gasket.

[staninlowerAL]

Water in the cylinders when the head was removed and you drained the coolant before removing the head--that should not have happened like that. Need to find out where the water came from. Copper Coat is a trade name, I think. Indian Head shellac is a substitute. Most recommend a sealer on the head gasket, both sides. Check the block and head with a straight edge to see if there is a need for resurfacing. Thread sealer, any non hardening sealer should be OK, Permatex sells a non-hardening PTFE paste thread sealer. Stir the contents well before using.

[Bob McCarty]

You can get the Copper Kote at any auto parts store, and probably at good hardware stores. The spray cans allow application in an even thin layer. I've never used any other sealant on head gaskets so I can't answer if that's a bad idea or not.