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Engine Refresh
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2016 7:34 am
- Zip Code: L3B5N4
- Tractors Owned: 1959 Cub
1949 Cub - Location: Ontario, Canada
Engine Refresh
Just finished an engine refresh, Standard bore, bought +020 thou. rings, filed the end gap to .010 thou. spacing. New std. rod bearings plasti-gauged and are within .001 thou. of the .002-.003 allowed. Reseated the valves the old fashioned way. New head gasket sprayed with copper kote. New grade 9 head bolts treated with thread sealant and torqued to 45 pounds. Rebuilt carburetor. New plugs and wires. Runs lovely now and no more blue smoke.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1177
- Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2012 3:13 pm
- Zip Code: 68803
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub, Kittie; 1948 Cub, Harold; 1949 Cub, 49er; 1951 Cub, Tucker; 1951 Cub, Homely; 1956 Cub High Crop; 1957 Cub Loboy; 57 Cub Loboy w/fasthitch + 194 plow; 1958 Cub LoBoy w/FH, Popeye; 1961 Cub, Beater; #1-1962 Cub Loboy Dually (Originally Orange) w/Foot Throttle; #2-1962 Cub Loboy Dually (Originally Orange) w/Foot throttle; Yellow 1963 Cub Loboy and blade; 1970 Cub, Cubbie; and 5 other Cubs in various stages of disaasembly and disrepair; 1962 Cub Cadet Original; 2 other Cub Cadet Originals; Cub Cadet 100; Cub Cadet 124 w/Creeper; Cub Cadet 147; 2 Cub Cadet 129's; Cub Cadet 149; 1948 Allis Chalmers C w/single frontwheel; 1944 Farmall H w/Tokhiem Cab; 2 One Point Fasthitch Carriers; 2-#100 Fasthitch Rear Blade; 2 Sets Cub 144 Cultivators; 2 Sets Cub #252 Cultivators; 3 Cub #193 Mouldboard Plows; 1 Cub #193 Slatted Plow; 1 1948 Cub-54 Snow Plow; 3 Cub-54 49-5 Snow Plows; Cub #6 Tool Bar w/Disc Blades & Middlebuster. 2-#105 sickle mowers, #152 disc plow
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Grand Island, Nebraska
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2016 7:34 am
- Zip Code: L3B5N4
- Tractors Owned: 1959 Cub
1949 Cub - Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Engine Refresh
Thank you, I tried to add some pics but it keeps telling me files to large.
I will have to try to take some with less megabytes.
I will have to try to take some with less megabytes.
- Slim140
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 4908
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: .
1970 International 140
1972 International 140
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Engine Refresh
Barry, what did your bores measure to make you go with oversized rings filed down? Just curios since I’m a machinist.
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2016 7:34 am
- Zip Code: L3B5N4
- Tractors Owned: 1959 Cub
1949 Cub - Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Engine Refresh
I never measured the bores precisely, I new it was a std. bore and the rings
that came out of it had a very large end gap so I new they would not work
so I opted for .020 over and file. I measured the end gap at the bottom of the bore.
This is the first one I have ever done so I was hoping for a good result and so far
all is good. I did a lot of reading beforehand on this forum to help me along and
I do thank everyone for the information that you post.
that came out of it had a very large end gap so I new they would not work
so I opted for .020 over and file. I measured the end gap at the bottom of the bore.
This is the first one I have ever done so I was hoping for a good result and so far
all is good. I did a lot of reading beforehand on this forum to help me along and
I do thank everyone for the information that you post.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2791
- Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:44 pm
- Zip Code: 48370
- Tractors Owned: 184
- Location: Oxford, MI
Re: Engine Refresh
If you think about it, the bores wear like a flower vase.
They are original size at the bottom because the rings never reach down that far and there is essentially no wear points.
They are wider in the middle due to the friction of the rings and the wear caused by the combustion.
At the top, the cylinders are narrower than the middle, but not as small as original because the rings don't touch there, but the combustion wears at it a little.
Your rings will have a small gap at the bottom and a wider gap in the middle of the stroke.
If you had the cylinders bored, they would be straight walled again (a perfect cylinder shape). Hopefully, your bores have not worn to be egg shaped. Measuring is certainly best!
They are original size at the bottom because the rings never reach down that far and there is essentially no wear points.
They are wider in the middle due to the friction of the rings and the wear caused by the combustion.
At the top, the cylinders are narrower than the middle, but not as small as original because the rings don't touch there, but the combustion wears at it a little.
Your rings will have a small gap at the bottom and a wider gap in the middle of the stroke.
If you had the cylinders bored, they would be straight walled again (a perfect cylinder shape). Hopefully, your bores have not worn to be egg shaped. Measuring is certainly best!
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Engine Refresh
barry123 wrote:Thank you, I tried to add some pics but it keeps telling me files to large.
I will have to try to take some with less megabytes.
Here's a couple threads and/or places to read about posting pictures:
- How to Upload Pictures to a Post
- Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
- Using the Forum
There are also ways to take your existing pics and downsize them. I open them up in Paint, select "Resize" (second grouping from the left in the pull-down menu), then select "Pixels" and make the horizontal dimension about 1000 or 1200. The "Maintain aspect ratio" is usually on, so whatever size I make the horizontal, the vertical size automatically changes to keep the picture in the correct ratio. Re-save the image with another name like, "001smaller.jpg" and you're set. Upload as an attachment to your post in FarmallCub.com and we all can enjoy!
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2016 7:34 am
- Zip Code: L3B5N4
- Tractors Owned: 1959 Cub
1949 Cub - Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Engine Refresh
Thanks for the tips on adding pictures, I will try at some point, computers are not my best friends.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:45 am
- Zip Code: 02878
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
1953 Farmall Cub - Location: Tiverton, RI
Re: Engine Refresh
Need to do this myself as the poor old 53 has started blowing smoked an has a good amount of blow by and I use it pretty hard with a belly brush mower . Just wondering if there is a good machine shop in eastern CT, RI or eastern MA.
- Drfting1
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 543
- Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2016 7:25 pm
- Zip Code: 24151
- Tractors Owned: 53 Cub
59 cub - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Rocky Mount VA
Re: Engine Refresh
barry123 wrote:Thank you, I tried to add some pics but it keeps telling me files to large.
I will have to try to take some with less megabytes.
If your using a smartphone... I use this app, it's real simple
https://play.google.com/store/apps/deta ... -Mar2515-1
Bill Longeill
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- Cub Pro
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5 lo-boys
1 154
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1 IH444
1 Oliver OC3 crawler
1 AC D10
1 IH 100 manure spreader
1 IH model B corn grinder
3 power units
cub demonstrator - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Ma. Rehoboth
Re: Engine Refresh
seabeelt wrote:Need to do this myself as the poor old 53 has started blowing smoked an has a good amount of blow by and I use it pretty hard with a belly brush mower . Just wondering if there is a good machine shop in eastern CT, RI or eastern MA.
Most tractor people around here, use Simplex, in Providence.
Ed
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:45 am
- Zip Code: 02878
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
1953 Farmall Cub - Location: Tiverton, RI
Re: Engine Refresh
Thanks Ed
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:45 am
- Zip Code: 02878
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
1953 Farmall Cub - Location: Tiverton, RI
Re: Engine Refresh
Any idea as to s ballpark cost?
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4991
- Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
- Zip Code: 36558
- Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: AL (Southwest)
Re: Engine Refresh
Depends on how much of the work you can/want to do yourself. CS about $200, bore $100/hole, deck head $100, boil out and cleanup all parts $2-300, replace valves and seats $250, you can easily spend $700-$100 for machine shop work. Add on disassembly/reassembly labor and new parts and gaskets and you're probably looking at a total rebuild cost of $1600-$2400 in my area of the deep south.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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