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need help with touch control

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le-lou
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need help with touch control

Postby le-lou » Tue Nov 01, 2005 9:05 pm

I recently purchased a 1952 Farmall Cub and I'm in the process of
restoring it. It's a lot of fun, and I'm starting to see improvement.
Right now I need some help with the touch-control. I have a oil leak
that is coming from the control cylinder. What I need to know is if
the cylinder o-ring can be changed with out going into the touch-control
body. I think the cylinder just pulls out, but I'm not sure if it will push back in. Need Help

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George Willer
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Postby George Willer » Tue Nov 01, 2005 9:44 pm

Sorry, The piston must go out the other way. It is actually two different sized concentric pistons with the larger one on the inner end.

Recommendation: Get the right kit for your casting and do a complete job.
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The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce

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Buzzard Wing
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Tue Nov 01, 2005 9:50 pm

I am in the middle of replacing all the seals and o-rings in mine. I believe that you can pull out the control cyl without completely disassembling or removing the TC. The only 'tricky' thing I can think of is that there is a 1/8" (?) allen set screw in the end of the shaft that holds it to the pin. It was tough for me to get that out.

There is only one o-ring on that cyl, even though there are 3 grooves that look like they should have an o-ring.

Probably a good idea to drain it and replace the HyTran too. But you may not have to.

Hope that helps.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

le-lou
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Postby le-lou » Tue Nov 01, 2005 10:12 pm

Thanks Buzzard Wing. I just went to the tractor and I
see the set screw You were talking about. If I can not remove
it I will try remaveing it with the lever attached.
Thanks again

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George Willer
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Postby George Willer » Tue Nov 01, 2005 10:27 pm

Sorry, I misread the question. I described the power piston. I hope I didn't cause serious confusion. :oops:

I still recommend installing an overhaul kit. Keep in mind that all the rubber parts are the same age. Piecemeal repairs are like being kind to your dog by cutting off his tail a little at a time. :(
George Willer
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The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce

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Buzzard Wing
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Tue Nov 01, 2005 10:54 pm

Right you are George. That's why mine is in a million pieces. (awaiting a strainer).

If that is all that is apparently wrong you could probably 'get away' with replacing that o-ring. Otherwise it involves removing the hood, etc.

I pretty much had no choice, two of the rock shaft bolts were broken on one side and it was leaking. I should have known that the strainer would be NG, but only ordered the gasket/o-ring kit (about $50) hoping that was all I needed.

Trouble is..... I figure if I take something off it should be spiffy clean, primed and painted. And all the bolts cleaned up (also primed and painted), threads chased.... That takes far more time than a 'rebuild'!

But when I get done it should be all set for another 50 years.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

le-lou
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2005 6:52 pm
Location: New Iberia, Louisiana

Postby le-lou » Wed Nov 02, 2005 9:21 am

Thanks George, when I read Your reply I knew You were refering to
the main operating cylinder and I did learn something from it for
the future. I'm trying to paint the Cub and the oil leaking was giving
Me a problem. When the paint job is complete I'll do as You suggest.
Thanks Le-Lou

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Buzzard Wing
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Wed Nov 02, 2005 11:59 am

Correction on the price of the TC kit. It is $35 not $50.

I think the strainer is about $55, but will know when it arrives, possibly today.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)


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