49 cub restoration project

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Gary Dotson
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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Gary Dotson » Sat Feb 09, 2019 8:35 am

You purchased "new, perfect bearings", insist on "new, perfect bearings".

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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Spencer » Sat Feb 09, 2019 1:09 pm

I’ve decided to replace the scratched bearing, thanks for replying. I saw in another thread that bearings can be replaced with the crankshaft pulley installed. I would like to get farther along with my project this weekend so I’m going to go ahead and install the front cover and crankshaft pulley.
The machine shop surfaced the head, machined my crankshaft, bored the cylinders to point .03, honed the block, machined valve seats, installed one seat insert and installed the valve guides.
So far I’ve installed the valves and camshaft, plastigaged the crankshaft bearings and installed the crankshaft and the pistons, although I still need to attach them to the journals.
Attachments
85DD95CE-EFFA-47D0-999C-BC4C7156EF31.jpeg

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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Spencer » Sat Feb 09, 2019 1:14 pm

The machine shop primed the block, and some overspray is on the inside of the governor mount. Does the magneto ground to the engine block through that mount?

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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Spencer » Sat Feb 09, 2019 4:06 pm

After installing all 4 pistons the crankshaft is very hard to turn by hand. I’ve checked all clearances and they are all good. Is it normal for it to be this tight or will it get easier with the hand crank?

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Glen
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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Glen » Sat Feb 09, 2019 7:00 pm

Hi,
Before putting the engine together more, I would ask the shop if they measured the valve guide ID's after putting them in the engine. They need measuring, and reaming, if too small.
The ID of the guides can get smaller when they are pressed into the block.
Someone on here months ago, was having a valve stick open after an engine rebuild, after the engine ran for about a half hour, and got warm.
If they didn't measure them, it should be done before the engine is put in the tractor.

The oil holes in the crankshaft should be checked before putting the crankshaft in the engine, to be sure there are no cuttings or dirt in them. Solvent, compressed air, and a small brush to go in holes is needed for cleaning them. Ask the shop if they did that.

The head bolts need non hardening sealer on the bottom 1/2" of the threads when putting the head on the engine. The head bolts go into the water jacket and can leak water up the threads, if there is no sealer on them, then it can leak out the head gasket.
I use Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket on the head bolts. It comes in a small can, they sell it at NAPA here in the west US. If you buy one, stir it well before using it, it settles in the bottom of the can sitting.

Some people use Copper Spray on the new head gasket, to help it seal better. If you have never used it before, I would practice some using the spray on some flat metal. It should be put on both sides of the head gasket evenly. Put the head on while the spray is wet, so you spray it just as you are putting the head on.
Below are pics of the 2 products.

Before putting the head on, I would turn all the head bolts into the block threads by hand, without any sealer on them, and be sure they turn easily. If they don't turn in all the way easily, the threads need a tap or die used on them to improve them. They need to turn easily to get an accurate torque, with a torque wrench.

I don't think the magneto grounds through the mounting surface, they originally had a gasket there.
It may need to ground through the mounting bolt, and nut at the top mounting, I'm not sure.

I see the block has paint on the rear where the clutch housing goes against it. I would use paint thinner, and remove the paint to match the surface that fits against it, the electrical system has to ground through the tractor.
Remove paint on the front mountings that fit against the mountings on the front end also.

The rings usually slide sort of hard in the cylinders when new, it is probably normal, but hard to tell without being there. If you have a hand crank, it should turn using that, but will have resistance. :)
Attachments
Cub Permatex.jpg
Cub Permatex.jpg (8.51 KiB) Viewed 702 times
Cub Copper coat.jpg
Cub Copper coat.jpg (16.69 KiB) Viewed 702 times
Last edited by Glen on Mon Feb 11, 2019 6:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Ahab01 » Mon Feb 11, 2019 10:44 am

After installing all 4 pistons the crankshaft is very hard to turn by hand. I’ve checked all clearances and they are all good. Is it normal for it to be this tight or will it get easier with the hand crank?


Did you put engine assembly lube liberally on everything as you were bolting it all together? I just did a rebuild using Permatex Assembly Lube and it all turned freely by hand once it was all back together. I also coated the cylinder walls and pistons with engine oil before shoving them back in. It is hard to say if your is too sticky for me, but if it doesn't feel right it probably isn't. I would spin it several times and see if I can ID where the drag is coming from by looking for rub marks, even if that means taking it all back apart. If its too tight it wont oil well when its running and you are wasting your time and money now.
If it ain't broke....give me a minute.

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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Spencer » Thu Feb 14, 2019 1:47 pm

The machine shop checked the valve guides and they are good. I’m going to take out the crankshaft and check the oil passages and replace the scratched bearings. I used plenty of assembly lube. I already have the aviation form a gasket and I’m going to get the copper spray.i picked up new head bolts and I’m going to retap the holes.
I put a bolt in the end of the crankshaft and attached the torque wrench. It took less then 5 foot pounds to turn. My dad who used to crank the tractor held the wrench where the crank handle would be and thought it felt ok. It felt tight when I was trying to rotate the crankshaft from inside the engine with just my hand. We used paint thinner to remove the overspray primar that had gotten on the front and back mounting positions.
I installed the governor seal yesterday, I did this by using a threaded rod, hole saw blade and som nuts and washers.
Attachments
85ECDF74-26AE-44C6-A140-DE441F608DFB.jpeg
85ECDF74-26AE-44C6-A140-DE441F608DFB.jpeg (33.21 KiB) Viewed 596 times
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4948DB29-D788-471F-981F-DB3572AC2BEC.jpeg (39.16 KiB) Viewed 596 times

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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Don B. » Thu Feb 14, 2019 2:14 pm

I gotta admit.
I looked at the hole saw picture before I read the text.
I thought, "What in the world is he doing?!" :lol:
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Bill Hudson
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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Bill Hudson » Thu Feb 14, 2019 4:54 pm

Spencer wrote: I installed the governor seal yesterday, I did this by using a threaded rod, hole saw blade and som nuts and washers.


Spencer, now that is a very creative way to install the seal. You're gonna teach some of the old dogs new tricks. Well done! :applause: :applause:

Bill
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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Glen » Thu Feb 14, 2019 6:40 pm

Hi,
Good you are making progress on the engine. That is a good way to install the oil seal. :)

I would check and see if the oil passage plugs are in place, there are several on the engine block.
One is behind the camshaft gear, when the camshaft is in place. If it is left out, the engine probably will have no oil pressure.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor showing it. It is to the upper left of the camshaft hole, left in the pic.
I'm not sure if there is a plug to the lower left of the idler gear bolt, maybe tst will say if there is. There is a small hole there.
Attachments
Cub Block 1.jpg

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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby cjack » Fri Feb 15, 2019 5:51 pm

I think that hole to the bottom left is the outlet of the oil pressure relief valve.

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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Spencer » Sun Mar 03, 2019 4:56 pm

Thanks to everyone who has helped out so far, today I got my tractor to run! My presentation is in two days, and after it I will continue working on the tractor and posting on this forum regularly, as the tractor is still far from being completely restored.
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BF4DDF4A-9A31-4E61-BC28-56E037394EBF.jpeg
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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Don McCombs » Sun Mar 03, 2019 6:09 pm

Looking good!
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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Shane N. » Sun Mar 03, 2019 6:22 pm

That smile is worth whatever you just spent on that engine. Keep up the good work!
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Glen
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Re: 49 cub restoration project

Postby Glen » Sun Mar 03, 2019 7:47 pm

Hi,
Really good news that you got it to run. :)


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