New Ignition Switch

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Floridaboy
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Zip Code: 34639
Tractors Owned: 1974 Original owner

New Ignition Switch

Postby Floridaboy » Fri Nov 30, 2018 5:10 pm

I have a 1974 Cub that needed a new ignition switch so I purchased a 4 terminal universal switch. Can someone tell me how to wire it?

I replaced the wiring harness about 20 years ago. Wire colors are faded but still visible. Thanks MLB

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Glen
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Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: New Ignition Switch

Postby Glen » Fri Nov 30, 2018 9:34 pm

Hi,
Below is a listing for a new key ignition switch at TM Tractor, it says it is for the serial numbers that a 1974 Cub would be. If your wiring harness still has a plug that fits the connections on the switch, it would be easier to buy the switch in the listing. :)

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/907fp.htm

Floridaboy
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2018 4:52 pm
Zip Code: 34639
Tractors Owned: 1974 Original owner

Re: New Ignition Switch

Postby Floridaboy » Fri Nov 30, 2018 10:08 pm

For $40.16 plus shipping I think I will make the one from NAPA work. This is a working tractor so originality is not a concern. Thanks, MB

Cubfriend
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Re: New Ignition Switch

Postby Cubfriend » Fri Nov 30, 2018 11:25 pm

There are several on eBay for $17.03, just use the number for a search on eBay. 60736C2
Frank

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Glen
5+ Years
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Posts: 3116
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: New Ignition Switch

Postby Glen » Fri Nov 30, 2018 11:34 pm

Hi,
To connect a NAPA switch, you will need to identify which wire is power from the battery, and which wire goes to the coil.
The NAPA switch might have an Accessory position, counterclockwise from off. That is not used on a Cub, so no wire would be connected to that post.

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So far, Paul and Ringo have arrived. John and George were supposed to follow ages ago, but apparently have gone awol. Long story.
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Re: New Ignition Switch

Postby Crimson Tim » Fri Nov 30, 2018 11:45 pm

You’ve basically got 3 connectors on a Cub:
- Battery-in
- Run/ignition/on
- Start

The Battery wire comes from the ammeter and should carry battery voltage all the time the battery is connected.

The Ignition wire should actually be two wires joined together. One goes to the alternator and one goes to the ignition cell/condenser/points/distributor.

The Start wire goes to the clutch safety switch if you have one and then the starter solenoid.

If you have a 4 wire universal automotive switch, the 4th terminal is probably an accessory position, which would not normally be used on a Cub.

I’ll see if I can dig up a link to the wiring diagram unless someone beats me to it.


Edit: this was listed as appropriate to a bit later Cub (1977) which I assumed to be the same as your 1974. That may not be true. What’s your serial number? If you go up to Quick Links at the upper left, then PDF Manuals, then Wiring Diagrams, pick your voltage, then pick the right file for your serial number.

Jim Becker
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Re: New Ignition Switch

Postby Jim Becker » Sat Dec 01, 2018 12:44 am

If you have a push button start, you have two wires to the ignition switch. One goes on BAT and the other on IGN. It doesn't matter which goes where.

If you have key start, you have three wires. The wire from the regulator L terminal (look at the color there) goes to ignition switch BAT and should have a second wire continuing to the fuse holder. This wire should have 12 volts at it even while unplugged from the switch. Another wire from the switch IGN goes to the ignition coil (look at the color there). The third wire, the only one left, should go from the switch S to the starting relay (solenoid). You might be able to see the color at the relay.

This all assumes your wiring is stock and your switch is conventionally marked.

inairam
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Tractors Owned: 1948 with international 1000 loader 6v - Dozer
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Re: New Ignition Switch

Postby inairam » Sat Dec 01, 2018 8:23 am

Why not return the 4 terminal switch and get the correct three-terminal switch from NAPA?

I find making the wrong part work is harder to do and less reliable than using the correct part.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!


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