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'53 Restoration JBailey

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Slim140
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey

Postby Slim140 » Wed Dec 19, 2018 8:34 am

There are 2 dowel pins between the engine and torque tube. They are a press fit. That is probably your problem. You may have to get a small screwdriver or chisel between the two and separate them.
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?

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Gary Dotson
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey

Postby Gary Dotson » Wed Dec 19, 2018 9:00 am

There are two dowel pins between the engine block and the torque tube, they are usually stuck and require a bit of force to separate.

k hutchins
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey

Postby k hutchins » Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:15 pm

Reference your question on the numbers on your valves, mine had the same lay out when l replaced my head gasket, and l know it's original because it's been in the family for 58 of it's 70 yrs. The pictures l took aren't clear enough to see numbers on the pistons so l don't know if the originals were stamped or not.
Sounds like everything is coming along. Thanks for keeping us updated.
By the way, don't worry about the pictures posting sideways, any picture is better than none.

Good luck as you continue.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey clutch hosing

Postby jbailey » Wed Dec 19, 2018 9:37 pm

Got engine apart from clutch housing today. Looks pretty good in that plate fingers appear good shape, maybe new plate and clutch?
Will take plate off tomorrow. Here are pictures of manufacture on plate, what can you tell me about it. Also got one of throw-out bearing.
pressure plate.jpg


throw-out bearing.jpg
'53 cub restoration project.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102720

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Glen
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey

Postby Glen » Thu Dec 20, 2018 3:03 am

Hi,
The pressure plate is probably a remanufactured one. The originals had no sticker that I know of.
Maybe you can read what it says with a light.

The throwout bearing looks like it might be about wornout, I think the material is worn down to near the metal part of the bearing, but it is hard to see it in the pic. I would replace it if it is worn down.
Below is a pic of a new throwout bearing. The material sticks out of it 5/16".

TM Tractor, at the bottom of the page, has new clutch parts. Below is a listing for a new throwout bearing. The grease fitting faces down in the tractor.
Lube the bearing, and you can put a thin layer of grease on the front surface also.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/378fp.htm

Inspect the throwout bearing holder holes for wear. The pin at the top, and the holes in the holder can wear and get loose. The holes need to have no wear, so the holder is held in one position, and not loose side to side.
If it is worn and loose, TM Tractor has a new holder, and pin.

The holder has to be in the right position, so the throwout bearing touches the pressure plate fingers correctly. Check the holder at the top, if it moves side to side much, the top of the holder needs bending so the sides are near the casting.
Then it has to be in the right position, so u might need to put the Cub together and check the contact of the new bearing on the fingers, and if wrong, split the Cub again, and bend the holder again.

The holder has to put the right amount of pressure on the throwout bearing squeezing it from the sides also, so the top of the bearing does not flop down, and rub on the fingers.

While the Cub is split is the easiest time to check the pressure plate finger heights. They should be set to 1 1/4", the guys on here say, when the plate is assembled on the flywheel.
Below is a pic of where to measure them.

Check the pilot bushing for wear, if you have a dial caliper, you can measure it's ID, and the shaft end, and see the clearance. Boss Hog has said on here that many pilot bushings do not need replacing when you replace the clutch, if they are still good.
Lube the bushing ID and end of the shaft with grease when putting it together. :)
Attachments
Cub.jpg
Cub clutch 3.jpg
Last edited by Glen on Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Bob McCarty
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey

Postby Bob McCarty » Thu Dec 20, 2018 10:39 am

From the photo, I can't tell how much graphite is left on the TOB. It looks like there is a thick rim of grease around it. I'd clean it off to see how much thickness is left. I've flattened the graphite using a flat file and that might give you years more service before it really needs replacement.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein

jbailey
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey clutch housing

Postby jbailey » Thu Dec 20, 2018 5:40 pm

I got in a little hurry to post my pictures, should have cleaned up the throw out bearing first. And I when I said new clutch and throw out bearing I was meaning to say they were not original and someone has been in there and replaced them. The clutch sticker says re manufactured by Rayloc. I will get the TOB cleaned up and show a better picture. Maybe get to work on it tomorrow, but have Christmas stuff to do and it may be a week before I get back to it.
'53 cub restoration project.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102720

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Don McCombs
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey clutch housing

Postby Don McCombs » Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:17 pm

jbailey wrote:I will get the TOB cleaned up and show a better picture.

Try to take the photo a little more from the side.
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

Image
Proud Member of Maryland Chapter 39

The best teachers are those who show you where to look, but don't tell you what to see.
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jbailey
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey TO bearing

Postby jbailey » Thu Dec 27, 2018 9:42 pm

TO bearing protrudes 1/4 inches. Noticeable are the rough edges, that I would say are chips that have been thrown off. Is this normal? The inside edge is mostly smooth.
TO bearing2.jpg

TO bearing.jpg
'53 cub restoration project.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102720

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Glen
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey

Postby Glen » Thu Dec 27, 2018 10:55 pm

Hi,
It is not normal for the throwout bearing to be chipped.
It looks like probably the pressure plate fingers are or were too low in the past, so the throwout bearing and holder were adjusted to move too far ahead, then they hit the pressure plate when the engine is running, and damage the throwout bearing, or holder, or pressure plate.
The shiny and dented places on the front of the holder were probably hitting the pressure plate too.

The holder can only go a certain distance ahead before it hits the pressure plate parts. If the fingers are adjusted too low, the clutch won't release before the travel of the holder is used, and the holder hits the pressure plate, if it is adjusted to go too far ahead.

I would put in a new throwout bearing, as long as it is a good quality one. The guys on here say TM Tractor has quality parts. They are at the bottom of the page.
The guys were saying lately to soak the new bearing in motor oil for a day, and grease it with cheap grease, so the oil from the grease absorbs into the graphite.
I wipe a thin layer of grease onto the front of the bearing.

Below is a listing for the bearing at TM Tractor, you can look at it. Be sure to put it in with the grease fitting facing down, they have it facing up in their pics. They have other clutch parts too.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/378fp.htm
Last edited by Glen on Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Glen
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Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey

Postby Glen » Fri Dec 28, 2018 9:10 pm

Hi,
If you replace the pilot bushing, know that some of the new bushings are too small an ID after being driven into the crankshaft hole. If you put it together that way, the clutch shaft may not stop turning when you push the clutch pedal down. People have written on here that has happened to them before.
The bushing needs measuring inside, and to be reamed bigger, if it is too small after installing it.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual, showing the shaft size on the front end, and the running clearance.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg

Grease inside the bushing, and the end of the shaft when putting the Cub together.


Below is a page from the Cub owner's manual showing the clutch, and adjusting the clutch pedal free play.
The free play is measured at the surface you put your foot on. This pic is for Cubs serial number 32229 and above, with the adjustment at the clutch pedal base.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2056.jpg

jbailey
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey TO bearing

Postby jbailey » Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:33 pm

darn I should have measured that finger height before I took it off. just in too big a hurry to get this thing apart.
'53 cub restoration project.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102720

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Glen
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey

Postby Glen » Sat Dec 29, 2018 9:36 pm

Hi,
If you have the same pressure plate and disc, you can bolt them back on the flywheel and check the finger height. If you didn't change the height, then you will know if they were low.

When installing the pressure plate, tighten the 6 bolts gradually, going around the pressure plate. It is loading the springs as you tighten the bolts, with the disc in place.

When putting it together to use, try to get all 3 fingers exactly the same height, so they form a flat surface for the throwout bearing to push on.

When checking the clutch disc lining, it is not much above the rivets, even with a new disc.
Below is a listing for a new clutch disc at TM Tractor. You can see the lining thickness at the rivets in the bottom pic. Not all lining has the notches, like theirs does, some were flat lining. :)

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/521fp.htm

jbailey
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Re: '53 Restoration JBailey clutch

Postby jbailey » Sun Dec 30, 2018 7:20 pm

I put clutch and pressure plate back on the flywheel. Top of levers measure 1 6/32, 1 3/32, 1 2/32. It appears some wear on two fingers and little wear on one. Pressure plate fairly clean but has some TO bearing dust residue and has cross hatch marks on face. Clutch itself has painted numbers remaining on its face and measures 5/16 width.
Pilot bushing measures .6250, spline end measures .6220 for a clearance of .0030.
'53 cub restoration project.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102720

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Glen
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
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Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: '53 Restoration JBailey

Postby Glen » Sun Dec 30, 2018 10:43 pm

Hi,
I don't know how much wear the fingers have without seeing them. They should be in good condition to reuse the pressure plate.
Be sure to set the fingers to the same height. They have said on here that even new pressure plates need the fingers set to the right height.
The pilot bushing has less running clearance than the manual says to have. If the clutch shaft was stopping when you pushed the clutch pedal down, when the engine was fully warmed up, I guess it will work, but you could ream it so it has .004" clearance.


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