Ideas plz, about pull type disc

[BullDAWG]

Hey, have any of yall converted a 3 point disc to a pull type???
I got a 2 gang disc that was a 3 point type, PO used a 90 HP tractor on it and didn't lift it up when turning, SO he destroyed the 3 point hitch. But that let me get it for scrap price... Besides my cub doesn't have a 3 pnt...
So what I did was just hooked a chain to the disc and drawbar. It works BUT I see that the REAR gang doesn't cut nearly as well or as deep as the front gangs. SO my questions are...

1) What would work better to hook it up to drawbar ????
2) How can I get rear gang to cut like the front ????

(here is my thinking, but if you know better plz do tell.... I'm thinking of building an A-frame that hinges on the 2 bottom parts of where the 3 point was (where the 2 bottom pins were)... But this won't put any downforce on the rear gangs My next idea was to build a small weight box on the very rear of it and add some solid 8" concrete blocks in the weight box) Sound good??? Got a better idea??? Please let me know what ya'll think, or know... THANKS... DAWG

[Jim Becker]

A picture of the disc and how you have the chain attached would help a lot. Absent that, here are a couple thoughts:

1) A solid hitch will work better than a chain. Two chains, one attached to each side of the disk would be better than one.

2) Wrong line of draft is probably causing your trouble. You are probably attached too high on the disc. You want the rear of the chain/hitch aimed down towards where the work is being done. If too high, the force from the chain will be trying to pitch the disc forward (lifting the rear).

[BullDAWG]

I don't have pics of it hooked up but the way I tested it was one chain LOOPED around the old 3 pnt hitch and the frame of the disc. then the 2 ends were bolted to the drawbar. the loop was on top and may have had some top pull like you mentioned and caused a lift type action. I'll try reversing the loop and have the chains under the frame of the disc. But I don't think the drawbar could be higher than the frame of the disc as it has 18" discs and is rather tall. I will post pics of what I have to try n help...

PS... YES that is Rail Road track sitting on top of it

[Jim Becker]

That is about what I pictured. Get the disc end of the chain as low as possible. Ultimately, you may find you need to extend the brackets lower than the existing bottom holes. Moving the rail back as far as possible can't hurt either.

[BullDAWG]

Thanks Jim,
But instead of moving the rail I was thinking of building a weight box outta some angle iron I got and using some soild 8" x 16" concrete blocks I got layin around and mounting the weight box on the rear most cross brace. That way I still have good heavy weight in the center and can adjust the rear weight by adding or removing just a block at a time. I didn't even think of building extentions for the chain. I like that as I can build them easily n even put multiple holes to attach the chain and see which position would give an even weight distribution so both gangs cut the same. If too low n it lifts the front gangs just go up a hole, if not enough on rear go down a slot... THANKS...

[Slim140]

I agree with Jim, move the railroad track to the back, keep it simple. You’ll still be getting more action out of the front after moving your attachment points since you don’t have a top link to put pressure on the back and it’ll save you some time of building a weight box.

[Scrivet]

Keep in mind, when picking the attachment points, that just like a moldboard plow, the "working position" is several inches lower than it is in the pictures.

That disk looks about the size of a Cub 23A but without the ability to change disk angle. If my Cub 23A is biting to much and I can't pull it, I back off on the angle till the soil gets worked up a bit. I think your only option would be to lighten the load so your weight box idea may be a necessity to be able to fine tune how hard/well the disk is working.

Transport is another issue if you have to move this very far between uses, There is no way to lift it out of the ground or adjust the disk angle to straight ahead so it's going to be working all the time, between fields in the woods on the back forty, across the yard, down the driveway etc. Hopefully it's a one field location and you can park it under a nearby tree waiting for next year.

[Waif]

With your A-frame idea and disc able to pivot on prior 3 point attachment locations , a chain to center of front of disc frame , (narrow point of triangle seen) and attached to handlever or rockshaft you might be able to raise front of disc more to engage rear discs more.
I'm not convinced a Cubs rockshaft will handle that load on rough or debris strewn ground though.

Depending on your junk pile or access to one and tools , a wide tire (or wide skid plate with a rounded upward leading edge where it drags on the soil) on a hand cranked trailer jack towards the front could allow a tilt adjustment.

[Jim Becker]

. . . move the railroad track to the back, keep it simple. . . .

Exactly. Moving the rail then trying it will let you see the effect of shifting the weight with minimal effort. You may find that is all you need for weight. If not, you can still do something more involved after you experiment.

With your A-frame idea and disc able to pivot on prior 3 point attachment locations , a chain to center of front of disc frame , (narrow point of triangle seen) and attached to handlever or rockshaft you might be able to raise front of disc more to engage rear discs more. . . .

I wouldn't do that. If you were to loose the hitch pin at the front of the A-frame, the tractor would do a back flip in about 1 second. Running a chain from the A-frame to a high point on the disc would possibly do the same thing and be safer. Look at pictures of some of the commonly available pull-behind discs and you will see jackscrew arrangements to do the same.

[Waif]

Better add wheelie bars then...
Heck , I've debated about adding at least one even though I'm careful about tires iced in during winter by starting movement in reverse a few inches first.

I'm still trying to envision a lynch pin popping off the drawbars effect.
With load suddenly removed , wouldn't it be similar to popping the clutch in third from a stop?

[Jim Becker]

The load wouldn't be removed. It would be relocated to the end of the rockshaft arm.

[Waif]

Ahhh. Now comes the dawn..

Dropping anchor with a chain on the other end above drawbar ,and adding bullgears chugging away would be tempting fate.....

I put the plow to rest in a flowerbed figuring it would get snagged and risk mayhem. Didn't figure on it coming off the drawbar in use though.... Yikes.
Multiple fasteners in play , but one missing could cause enough offset to get messed up.