Clutch Inspection

Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.

Moderator: Team Cub

Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
User avatar
Glen
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 3278
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: Clutch Inspection

Postby Glen » Mon Apr 29, 2019 10:04 pm

Hi,
Good to teach the other drivers of the LoBoy to not ride the clutch pedal as they are using the tractor.
That means only have a foot on the pedal when stopping or shifting. :)

Scrivet
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 2793
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:51 pm
Zip Code: 63664
Location: MO, Potosi

Re: Clutch Inspection

Postby Scrivet » Tue Apr 30, 2019 7:55 am

Cubfriend wrote:If for some reason you take out the flywheel bolts reseal the threads on the bolts as they go into the crankcase and oil can follow the threads out and get on the clutch.
:? Can you be a little more specific on how this happens, I'm not familiar with this problem. Are you possibly talking about the loctite on the threads to give them extra grip to keep them from loosening?

mountain4don wrote:...... Another question is, are the pressure plate fingers adjusted properly to receive the new disk at the correct dimension? Or do I need to adjust them after installation of the new pressure plate/disk?
You definitely need to check them. You have to install it on the flywheel and have it tightened down first. It's a very easy job with the tractor split. Much easier than through the hand hole. This same pressure plate and clutch is used on Massey Harris Pony and Pacer tractors and possibly something else. It just depends on which spec the builder or remanufacturer is using as to whether it will be adjusted correctly. That's why it's best to check after install, and before "unsplitting" the tractor.

Cubfriend
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 591
Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2012 3:13 pm
Zip Code: 68803
Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub, Kittie; 1948 Cub, Harold; 1949 Cub, 49er; 1951 Cub, Tucker; 1951 Cub, Homely; 1956 Cub High Crop; 1957 Cub Loboy; 57 Cub Loboy w/fasthitch + 194 plow; 1958 Cub LoBoy w/FH, Popeye; 1961 Cub, Beater; #1-1962 Cub Loboy Dually (Originally Orange) w/Foot Throttle; #2-1962 Cub Loboy Dually (Originally Orange) w/Foot throttle; Yellow 1963 Cub Loboy and blade; 1970 Cub, Cubbie; and 5 other Cubs in various stages of disaasembly and disrepair; 1962 Cub Cadet Original; 2 other Cub Cadet Originals; Cub Cadet 100; Cub Cadet 124 w/Creeper; Cub Cadet 147; 2 Cub Cadet 129's; Cub Cadet 149; 1948 Allis Chalmers C w/single frontwheel; 1944 Formal H w/Tokhiem Cab; 2 One Point Fasthitch Carriers; #100 Fasthitch Rear Blade; 2 Sets Cub 144 Cultivators; 2 Sets Cub 252 Cultivators; 3 Cub 193 Mouldboard Plows; 1 Cub 193 Slatted Plow; 1 1948 Cub-54 Snow Plow; 3 Cub-54 49-5 Snow Plows; Cub #6 Tool Bar w/Disc Blades & Middlebuster.
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Grand Island, Nebraska

Re: Clutch Inspection

Postby Cubfriend » Tue Apr 30, 2019 10:23 am

Scrivet wrote:
Cubfriend wrote:If for some reason you take out the flywheel bolts reseal the threads on the bolts as they go into the crankcase and oil can follow the threads out and get on the clutch.
:? Can you be a little more specific on how this happens, I'm not familiar with this problem. Are you possibly talking about the loctite on the threads to give them extra grip to keep them from loosening?

mountain4don wrote:...... Another question is, are the pressure plate fingers adjusted properly to receive the new disk at the correct dimension? Or do I need to adjust them after installation of the new pressure plate/disk?
You definitely need to check them. You have to install it on the flywheel and have it tightened down first. It's a very easy job with the tractor split. Much easier than through the hand hole. This same pressure plate and clutch is used on Massey Harris Pony and Pacer tractors and possibly something else. It just depends on which spec the builder or remanufacturer is using as to whether it will be adjusted correctly. That's why it's best to check after install, and before "unsplitting" the tractor.


The oil can come out of the flywheel to crankshaft bolts along the threads the same as antifreeze comes out of the head bolts that aren’t sealed when installed. The lock washer has a split in so it can get out and once out it is free to travel up the flywheel to the clutch surface. I’m sure it could take awhile but why chance it.
Frank

mountain4don
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 285
Joined: Tue May 05, 2009 9:54 am
Zip Code: 65101
Location: Jefferson City, MO

Re: Clutch Inspection

Postby mountain4don » Tue Apr 30, 2019 10:29 am

Glen wrote:Hi,
Good to teach the other drivers of the LoBoy to not ride the clutch pedal as they are using the tractor.
That means only have a foot on the pedal when stopping or shifting. :)


I tried to teach the "girls" for years not to use the clutch for "speed control" and maneuvering around things, but they did it anyway. I always told them to fill up the tank. Start the Cub and put the mower deck in gear, then let out the clutch. And not to touch the clutch until it runs out of gas. Then walk back to the shop to get another two 6 gallon jugs of gas and fill it up again and continue. The cub has functional lights on it so they can mow after dark if it hasn't run out of gas yet. But do you think they ever paid attention to me?
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M

mountain4don
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 285
Joined: Tue May 05, 2009 9:54 am
Zip Code: 65101
Location: Jefferson City, MO

Re: Clutch Inspection

Postby mountain4don » Tue Apr 30, 2019 3:12 pm

I have another problem here on this clutch replacement. I bought the two pins that link the clutch pedal arm to the throw-out bearing frame, because there was much play in both of those end links. Of course the one on the forward end was easy to get out with a mirror. But I am having trouble getting the rear pin out as I can't seem to unfold the cotter pin that holds the pivot pin in place. I can reach back there and put my hands and fingers around the entire joint, but I can't grip the pin so that I can unfold the cotter pin ends to pull it out. Any ideas? I tried to grip the head of the pivot pin with a pair of small vise-grips and then rotate the pin so the vice-grips hit the top of the tube and then I can unbend the cotter pin. But there is not enough room in there to even get the vice-grips on the head of the pivot pin?
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M

User avatar
Glen
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 3278
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: Clutch Inspection

Postby Glen » Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:19 pm

Hi,
I guess you mean the pin at the rear of the throwout bearing holder. You will just have to keep trying to get at it.
You could show the other drivers the Cub disassembled, and tell them this is a lot of work, the clutch wasn't meant to be slipped, it wears out it's lining.
Just a suggestion.

mountain4don
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 285
Joined: Tue May 05, 2009 9:54 am
Zip Code: 65101
Location: Jefferson City, MO

Re: Clutch Inspection

Postby mountain4don » Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:36 pm

I got the pin out of the back of the throwout bearing holder ok without any problems. What I need to do is replace the identical pin on the other end of the clutch actuating shaft yoke back at the clutch pedal lever just below the driveshaft in the torque tube. I can reach back in there with my arm, and feel all around the yoke, but the torque tube is so small in diameter that I can't seem to get a tool in there to grip the pin head so I can unbend the cotter pin protruding from the other side of the yoke, and pull it out. I thought of trying to tie a piece of wire on the looped end of the cotter pin and just try unbending it by pulling it out. But I don't know if the cotter pin will unbend without breaking the wire. And as for pictures, I don't have one of those electronic cameras or a cell phone and don't know how to post pictures if I borrowed one from one of the grandchildren.
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M

Jim Becker
Team Cub
Team Cub
Posts: 14118
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
Zip Code: 55319
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MN

Re: Clutch Inspection

Postby Jim Becker » Tue Apr 30, 2019 10:46 pm

I can't imagine changing that pin without splitting the tractor at the transmission. I'd have to want to change it real bad.

User avatar
Glen
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 3278
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: Clutch Inspection

Postby Glen » Tue Apr 30, 2019 11:45 pm

Hi,
That pin is easier to get at from the rear of the clutch housing, after the housing is removed from the transmission.
I don't know if you can tell if there is looseness, or wear in it, or if there was visible wear in the forward pin you took out.
You may have to leave the pin that is there. You could oil it, so it doesn't wear for some time.

mountain4don
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 285
Joined: Tue May 05, 2009 9:54 am
Zip Code: 65101
Location: Jefferson City, MO

Re: Clutch Inspection

Postby mountain4don » Wed May 01, 2019 7:25 pm

There is about 1/8" of free play back in either that rear pin or the holes in the yoke or clutch pivot arm. So I am not sure if the holes in the yoke/pivot arm are wallowed out or if the pin itself is worn. But this may be the source of a lot of play in the clutch actuator linkage. If I have 1/8" give in that arm at this connection pin which is about a 2-1/2" radius, that would translate into maybe 1/2" play in the clutch pedal movement. So, adjusting the clutch pedal for the 1" clearance before the throwout bearing touches the pressure plate fingers is really a 1-1/2" free play.
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M

mountain4don
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 285
Joined: Tue May 05, 2009 9:54 am
Zip Code: 65101
Location: Jefferson City, MO

Re: Clutch Inspection

Postby mountain4don » Thu May 02, 2019 12:22 pm

After careful reevaluation and reading recommendations from everybody, I decided to leave that rear pin connecting the rear of the clutch actuating rod to the clutch pedal lever. But now I see how all of these gearbox gear grinding sequences develop. When there is a new clutch, new throw-out bearing and tight fittings in all the supporting apparatus for the throw-out bearing, and the correct clutch fingers have been set along with the 1" clearance of the clutch pedal, that lever connected to the clutch pedal and clutch actuating rod is cocked slightly to the rear with the pedal at the stop. Pushing the clutch pedal down rotates that lever over the top of its rotation and continues to a position slightly forward, allowing maximum forward-backward movement of the clutch operating rod and maximum opening-closing of the clutch. As everything wears, we adjust the clutch pedal forward to gain back that 1" pedal clearance, but in the meantime that lever inside that operates the actuating rod also moves forward. When this continues eventually that lever will be going up and down, not moving the clutch actuating rod at all. So the design causes the clutch disengagement issues as everything wears. Its possible to make up some of this loss of movement by reducing the clearance between the clutch fingers and throw-out bearing below the listed minimum, or by reducing the free-play of the clutch pedal below that 1" specified.
1959 International Cub Lo-Boy W/Fast hitch, 59 Woods, dozer blade, plow
1954 Farmall Super C W/Fast hitch, belly dozer blade
1950 Farmall M


  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Return to “Farmall Cub”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bauerei, tenn terry t and 5 guests