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Rear oil seal - spaghetti strainer?

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ScottyG
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Rear oil seal - spaghetti strainer?

Postby ScottyG » Sun Nov 20, 2005 5:03 pm

I put in a new rear oil seal when I rebuilt the engine and it's leaking like a sieve. Rondell told me that somewhere along the line, people were commenting on how the new seals don't fit that well. Come to think of it, I didn't need to press it into the rear cover nearly as hard as I needed to do the front. Should I have cauled this seal in place?
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub

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rondellh
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Postby rondellh » Sun Nov 20, 2005 6:33 pm

Sounds like thats it Scotty. Only thing you can do now is split the tractor again and reinstall the seal or install a new one. And yes install it with a sealer/adhesive.

Rondell

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AlanPCUBS
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Postby AlanPCUBS » Sun Nov 20, 2005 7:48 pm

Scotty i just had the same thing happen with my 49 and had to split open agian. I used JB Weld on mine and so far so good! Keeping my fingures crossed? Good Luck
Alan

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ScottyG
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Postby ScottyG » Sun Nov 20, 2005 8:30 pm

Rondell,

Let me know when you'll be in the area again so I can give you back your puller.

Thanks again for it.

Scott
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub

wwirz
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Postby wwirz » Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:30 pm

I had tried 3 yimes before I got it right.

First of all the new seals are slightly smaller...my first mistake. What I finally did ws use the High Temp (Black) permatex. I dried the housing thoroughly installed the seal and then peened the housing around the seal OD. I then let it dry. I re-installed with a new seal housing gasket and new pan gasket and it worked perfectly!

Good luck! It is not something you want to do every day or very often.

Bill

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ScottyG
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Postby ScottyG » Wed Nov 23, 2005 2:46 pm

Well you're right about that. I actually think I have some high temp gasket sealant from a chimney job I did. I can't bear the thought of disassembling the trac again. Maybe I'll install a picking eye into the joist of my shed this time to make the job easier rather than jockeying two 1,000 lb halves on jack stands.

Thanks.
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub

cub nut
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Rear Seal Plate Repair

Postby cub nut » Wed Nov 23, 2005 8:15 pm

Scott,

I have repaired quite a few of these plates over the past 6+ years and have yet to have a repaired one leak.

I bore out the housing for a slightly larger diameter seal and apply the "black" permatex when pressing in the new seal. (I use the same brand of seal as purchased from Case/Ih only a larger diameter).
I usually have 1 of the repaired plates on hand at any given time and I sell them for $80 each outright or $65 each and you send me your old one. This price includes shipping and a new gasket. I also give a guarantee of 1 year on the repaired plate.

The last time I priced the plate from Case/Ih it was $130, the seal was $15 and the gasket was $3 (this was 3+ years ago).

I sold a repaired one to a fellow member back in September and he is very pleased with the repair.

I do not know if the new seals are smaller in diameter or if all the heating and cooling cycles of the engine over the years have had an adverse effect on the bore of the plate. The plate being of aluminum alloy and the engine block being of cast iron and the seal body being of steel means they all have a different expansion and contraction rates.

Hope this information is helpful!

Mark

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ScottyG
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Postby ScottyG » Sat Nov 26, 2005 9:06 am

Thanks Mark,

We just got some snow overnight so it's apparently time to switch gears, mount the grader and put Henry to some work. Warmer weather's approaching toward mid-week which might be the time to do the split. Let me open it up and see what the problem is first. Maybe the seal was installed backwards or, maybe not inserted far enough. I dunno.
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub


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