Rear Oil Leak near the wheels

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bookman51
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Rear Oil Leak near the wheels

Postby bookman51 » Mon Aug 19, 2019 11:13 am

I have a 1955 Cub that I have been refurbishing (not a pure restoration). My last project, which I have been putting off, is dealing with the rear wheels. It looks like there is an oil leak somewhere. Question 1: How can I tell if is the result of a bad seal or too much oil in the transmission or gear pans. I did change the seals in my Farmall A almost twenty years ago, and I thought it a pain!!. Question 2: I have pretty heavy weights on both sides. I do have a cherry picker. Any suggestions on how to deal with these weights. I would like to take them off and paint them (and paint the rims of the rear wheels while they are off). Again, I remember dealing with the Farmall A weights 20 years ago and they were a pain!! I probably will replace the brake bands while I have the rear wheels off. I think I did this with the Farmall A and I do not recall how hard it was, which maybe is a good sign.

Thanks in advance.


Bookman

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Urbish
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Re: Rear Oil Leak near the wheels

Postby Urbish » Mon Aug 19, 2019 11:43 am

1: There is a drain plug on the side of the transmission a few inches up from the bottom. If you remove the plug and any fluid comes out, it is overfilled. Alternately, you can drain the transmission into an empty bucket and measure the volume of what comes out. The transmission takes 3-1/2 pints.

You can pull the plugs on the final drives and see if any oil comes out of them. They are difficult to overfill since the fill plug is the only way to get oil into them. I would suspect that your culprit is the transmission output shaft seals and/or the transmission being overfilled.

2: I have found that the easiest way to deal with the weights is to remove the entire wheel and lay it down flat on the floor or on some 4x4 scraps. Then you can remove the weights without any chance of them falling off and landing on your foot. I do like the method one forum member came up with for managing the weights. Details here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=98907

EDIT: here are some other ideas for managing the wheel weights: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=94037

IMPORTANT: Whenever you are removing wheels or jacking up the tractor, make sure you wedge the front axle at the bolster on both sides.
Jim

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bookman51
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Re: Rear Oil Leak near the wheels

Postby bookman51 » Mon Aug 19, 2019 4:49 pm

Thanks. I like the handcart idea.

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Glen
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Re: Rear Oil Leak near the wheels

Postby Glen » Mon Aug 19, 2019 6:25 pm

Hi,
Below is a post with info about replacing the final drive oil seals, and fixing the brakes. The info is at my first post on the page, it has more info at a link on that page.
Read Dale Finch's post about repairing the brake, the link is in my info.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=103697

A 1955 Cub would originally have the newer style of brakes, one is shown in the pic at my post.
Dale's post shows a Cub with the 1st style of brake, they are similar, but not the same.

The 2 areas where the brakes are should be dry, no oil there.

Like was said above, remove the transmission oil level plug, and see if oil or water comes out, it can leak onto the brakes if it is overfilled. It should be filled to the level plug hole.
The trans commonly get water in them from rain, or condensation inside them over time.

The filler plug is on top of the trans, to the rear of the shifter.
The level plug is low on the left side of the trans, near the muffler with an underaxle exhaust system.
The drain plug is on the bottom of the trans, visible from under the platform.
The Cub owner's manual shows how to check or change the oils. :)

If your Cub has a Fast Hitch, with no hole over the oil level plug in the left bracket that holds the Fast Hitch onto the final drive, you will have to remove the Fast Hitch to check or change the left final drive oil.
IH started putting a hole in the bracket later. My friend's 1955 Cub had no hole in the bracket.

To check the oil in the right final drive, you have to remove the 2 bolts holding the depth adjusting lever base to the final drive, and move the lever base out of the way. The plug is under that.

The Fast Hitch has to be removed to change the oils in both final drives, the brackets cover 1 bolt in each final drive oil pan.

Always good to check the oil in them, using the Cub with low oil in a trans, or final drive can cause damage to the parts in them.

If you have a drawbar, you have to remove it to get to the left final drive oil level plug.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of a final drive, for the newer style brake, without most of it's parts, showing the oil level plug, at the left. :)
Attachments
Cub casting 5.jpg


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