Getting a cub ready to paint questions

[beaconlight]

MelonKing You have one great father in law. Mine was like that too. Mickey is gone many a year and still missed.
Count him as a blessing.

Bill

[MelonKing]

Yep, he's as good as they come. No way could I of even began this project wothout his help, or without his garage We are getting into the rear section now but have stopped work and decided to wait on service manual before going any further, so as not to break anything...

Dewight

[Rudi]

Dewight:

I guess it should be posted again...

The Welcome Wagon introduces you to all the available stuff on line. Yes.. definitely buy the Service Manual, Owner's Manual and the TC-37F Parts Catalog from Binder Books..

BUT in the meantime whilst you are awaiting the joyous arrival of these wonderful manuals... please feel free to utilize the scanned copies of these manuals on line.. that is why they are there. Specifically so you do not have to wait until the manuals arrive via SNAIL MAIL...

Here are the links again... and please, continue to enjoy all that wonderful time with your father in law. I know that I have enjoyed my time with my father in law, and I continue to treasure every moment we actually spend together no matter what the reason. He is in early stages of Alzheimers, so I know that I may soon lose him... which I hope will be a long time away yet. Enjoy whilst you have the time. One never knows when one's time is done.

Cheers

Rudi

First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met

Ok, so here is the spiel :

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.


Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These are intended to complement the businesses who support FarmallCub.com Website.

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are two must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family

[Buzzard Wing]

Don't have any Crown Royal in the house (or the camper AKA the metal condo) but Kroil is good stuff.

There were no 'dot' bolts on the 71 Cub and everything seemed to be grade 5. I used a lot of stainless fasteners on that one (grade 2??) and the only grade 8s I used were on the C-2 mower. That was a mistake for the most part becase some of them went into the castings (final drives) and I would much rather have the bolt break than the castings.

I have been reusing all but the really badly rusted bolts on the 50. I have been using grade 5 on the ones I replaced. I clean em up good on the bench grinder wire wheel and prime the heads. I bought 100 count boxes of lock washers of all the common sizes (suprisingly cheap from a local fastener house) and I prime and paint them before using them. Seems that 55 year old lock washers have served their time and it is just too much trouble to clean up the old ones.

One more good tip.... get a good respirator. That is one thing you can get for a good price on eBay.

[Paul_NJ]

Perhaps the most frustrating thing I experienced from my first tractor restoration experience was that regardless of which procedure I used for grease, rust, and paint removal, the newly cleaned metal surface quickly began to freshly rust again. Electrolysis, while a very efficient stripping process which I've used for all but the largest parts, is particularly troublesome because it electrochemically "activates" the surface. I mean you can almost watch flash rust form on the surface when you take it out of the tank.

If you immediately dry the surface and apply a primer, the new surface is permanently protected. However, if you only clean and strip one or several parts at a time, firing up your spray gun, mixing your primer, priming, and then the cleanup - well it's much too time consuming. I'd rather stabilize the part from new corrosion, and put it on a shelf until I've accumulated enough parts to prime them all. Or, working in an unheated garage, the temperature has warmed up enough (at least 60 degrees) to prime and paint them.

At first I bought rattle cans of etch primer and used this on each newly prepared part. This worked very well except that at $15 per can it was expensive. On my next tractor, I learned about a product called Picklex 20. It's phosphoric acid based - the same component in etch primer. Comes in a spray pump bottle, its mail ordered, it's over priced ($30 a pint), but works very well in preventing rerusting indefinitely, as long as the surface stays dry. And you can do a whole tractor with about half a pint. I use it on cast and sheet metal. There's another similar product Home Depot sells called "Must for Rust", or something like that, for less than half the price. I bought a bottle to try it - maybe it's just as good but haven't used it on any critical areas to really test it yet.

I found epoxy primer (PPG Omni 170) applied over that surface yielded a tight, smooth, and moisture impervious finish. But that's another story.

[rick 48 cub]

I wonder how it would work to have a coffee can (with cover to prevent evaporation) 1/4 full of some light solvent available to toss freshly "electronized" parts into. This may prevent the immediate rusting and save up small parts to make spray painting worhwhile.

Rick