Frozen Square Implement Bar in Square Socket

[aball36]

Next decision to make on the 51 farmall cub is how aggressively to try and remove a stuck square bar from the square implement socket. (See attached photo). Probably the correct terminology is the square opening at the rear of the "Steering Gear Housing Assembly Base". I am assuming that a sledge hammer type repair would probably be frowned upon by the casting and cause more damage than good. I've tapped on it a bit with a 3lb hammer and it seems fairly frozen in place. Maybe I should leave well enough alone unless there are some success stories out there. Maybe a torch to warm up and expand the square socket. I attempted to squirt some PB blaster up into the set screw hole and also at the end shown in the photo. The opposite end on the other side of the tractor doesn't appear nearly as corroded or stuck.

Thanks,

Adam

51 Cub Implement Bar.png (236.62 KiB) Viewed 817 times

[Bob McCarty]

Are you sure one or both of the set screws aren't broken off?

[Eugene]

I wouldn't get in a rush. Soak with PB Blaster, moderate rap with 3 lb. hammer, both ends, every time I was in the area.

Another option is to suspend some weight fastened tightly to the bar and below the bar. Tractor motion might put a small amount of twist/torque on the bar to help loosen it up.

I use a bar hanging in that socket to suspend additional front end weight.

[Nelson 634]

Three suggestions:
1- Tap with hammer in all directions. Up, Down, Right, Left. Small hammer like maybe a ball pin hammer.
2- Keep spraying with lubricate, followed by air pressure to push it back into the sleeve.
3- Heat with a heat gun, may help without danger of cracking cast iron. I would not use high heat!

[tmays]

Wondering the same as Bob

[aball36]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will double check the set screw on the opposite side as the picture. The set screw on the side closest to the picture backed right out without issue but I didn't think to look up into the socket on the other side as there was no visible bolt/set screw at first glance. I just assumed it was missing but maybe it is broken off.

Thanks,

Adam

[tst]

there are two set screws

[Dale Finch]

If there is no screw broken off, and you have a compressor, blow out both implement holes to get out any debris that might be jammed in there.

Also, be careful if you use the hammer much, that you don't mushroom either end, causing another problem. You might use a block of wood to hit against.

[ricky racer]

Also, be careful if you use the hammer much, that you don't mushroom either end, causing another problem. You might use a block of wood to hit against.

That's exactly what I was thinking. As tight as the bar is in the hole, if you deform the end of the bar, you'll never get it through the housing. Do yourself a favor and grind or file the all four sides of the bar near the end of the bar down now, before you beat it into the housing and find out that the end has been mushroomed....
In fact, it wouldn't be a bad idea to grind down as much of the bar as you can, even slightly, including rounding the square corners to make it pass through the housing easier once it gets moving. Also, when checking to see if a set screw is broken off, when you look in the tapped hole, you should see the corner of the bar. If you don't see a corner and the bottom of the hole looks flat, it might be a broken set screw.

[Don McCombs]

Or the edge of the bar has been deformed from using a flat ended bolt instead of a cup point set screw.

[coppersmythe]

check the hole closely for the broken set screw . please let us know how it turns out , even if badly . all of us here learn from our successes and temporary failures . coppersmythe...............................

[SONNY]

Forget PB, use diesel fuel/trans fluid mix, heat-- I mean LOTS of heat large acy/oxy torch and heat--beat-dump more mix, heat some more, and it will come out. When you hit it , come from all directions if you can, sometimes they will move just a bit in one direction but not the other so once you find which way it will move, you can go a bit that way, clean the new area with a file or grinder then work back the other way. --- I had to do this on the front axle tubes on one to get them loose so I could set them all the way in.
Take your time and dont spare the heat! -- It's your best friend here! --- I hate to resort to this tatic, but when all else fails you dont have a choice!
Before you start doing anything, make sure the bolts are out, not broke off, then check the square with a cheeepo caliper to see if its still square or been mashed before.
The exposed part can be ground or filed to get the paint and surface rust off before you start. to will help when it does start moving.
Just one final thought, --- check closely in the bolt holes for welds, also check next to the casting for welds!! --Don't laugh, I passed one up on an auction that had a square welded in there!

[aball36]

Thanks for the continued tips. I haven’t gotten brave enough to pour the coals/torch to it yet. 3rd consecutive night of PB blaster and tapping with hammer. I have now ground the exposed end down to get rid of paint and pack rust to make it feel like I have made some progress. Inspected both screw holes and 95% sure nothing is broken off in there. The bottom of both holes does look somewhat flat but it appears that the flatness is more a result of the corner edge of the square stock basically having a machined chamfered edge to it already making it flat and perpendicular to the travel of the screw. I have start using the edge of a putty knife to jam around the ends of the square socket where it allows me. Some areas allow the knife to get in there 1/2” or so. Still amazed there is no sign of movement with a fairly firm rap. More patience I suppose... curious if I could cobble together a heavy chunk of angle iron with some heavy forks welded on the one end along with a bottle jack on the exposed end to create some type of hydraulic press device like a mini wood splitter concept that would keep the casting material in compression during the pressprocess. I am probably asking for trouble with that line of thinking. Probably should stick with current plan if I can stand the wait. I should buy stock in PB blaster or revert to diesel/tranny mix as suggested. thanks. Adam

[Frozenstate]

Just heat it up and get it off. The torch will work perfect. Penetrating oil is something to use before you figure out the right way to get it off, heat, lots of it.

[JimCub48]

I would measure the tool bar square stock to make sure its not tapered so you are driving it in the right direction. Keep lubbing it and drive it out with a block of wood.