Update on my "new '51

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Dale Finch
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Tractors Owned: '51 Cub "Bernie" with Fast Hitch
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Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Dale Finch » Wed Sep 30, 2020 10:07 am

Yeah, you are probably right about the crack, if that's what the problem is. If I can't determine which is causing the leak, I guess I will treat both possibilities. I'll remove the bowl, clean everything up, apply some JB Weld to the outlet area, and when dry, install the bowl with the yellow teflon tape and maybe add the sealer, too.

I don't know if the tank had been leaking before, because there was such a large amount of hydraulic fluid that had been leaking. I had mowed for about 8+ hours after I bought it, just to determine what problems it might have...this was unexpected... :?

Think I need a 2nd :coffee: before I tackle this... :lol:
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Don McCombs
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Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Don McCombs » Wed Sep 30, 2020 11:22 am

Just FYI, the yellow Teflon tape is for natural gas and propane joints, not gasoline. Not sure if there is any real difference between the yellow and the white, other than thickness.
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Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Jim Becker » Wed Sep 30, 2020 11:26 am

Don McCombs wrote:. . . Not sure if there is any real difference between the yellow and the white.

I'm not sure either. From what I've been told, the yellow tape is 50% thicker and the yellow coloring is to visually tell them apart, but the material is the same.

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Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Bob McCarty » Wed Sep 30, 2020 1:03 pm

Yellow and white are both insoluble in gasoline. The yellow is thicker and denser for the gas pipe application. Teflon was Dow's trade name. They no longer make the tape so PTFE ( polytetrafluoroethylene) is the commonly accepted name. It also comes in pink, green, gray and copper for different applications. In college my inorganic chemistry teacher passed around a silver dollar sized grayish, black wafer that he said was one of the first pieces of teflon made when he was working at Dow Chemical during WWII.
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Dale Finch
10+ Years
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Posts: 5636
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 27517
Tractors Owned: '51 Cub "Bernie" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Dale Finch » Wed Sep 30, 2020 4:32 pm

Yes, I understand that the "gas" to which they refer, is not gasoline, but when you need that proper alignment with the fuel bowl, the extra thickness is sometimes needed to get it turned correctly with a good seal. Also, it doesn't shred as easily as the white Teflon tape.
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Dale Finch
10+ Years
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Posts: 5636
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 27517
Tractors Owned: '51 Cub "Bernie" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Dale Finch » Wed Sep 30, 2020 5:23 pm

I had been surprised that I would not have noticed that fuel leak when using the tractor, but it just shows the importance of REALLY cleaning your tractors once in a while!! I was downloading my most recent photos onto my computer, and admiring how much gunk I had been able to remove from the fuel tank, when I realized that most of the nasty stuff on the bottom WAS from a fuel leak! I should have recognized it as such, but thought I have a really bad hydraulic leak (which I did, also)...it was just mixed in with the HyTran on the clutch housing.
20200927_113152 (Small).jpg
Cleaning bottom of fuel tank...black is fuel residue from a leak

While I am discussing cleaning the fuel tank, thought I would show you some before and after photos. I very carefully scrubbed at the crusted residue, and was finally successful in removing it. Because i used a fairly coarse scrubbing pad, I followed up with some wet sanding with 320 wet/dry sandpaper...came out looking fairly nice, I thought.
20200927_114906 (Small).jpg

20200927_122136 (Small).jpg

20200927_124724 (Small).jpg

I removed the sediment bowl, and cleaned up the outlet area. There was JUST enough fuel still in the tank to spot where the leak was. Good news is it is not a crack, bad news is that it is where the threaded "outlet fitting" is spot welded to the tank.
20200930_165756 (Small).jpg

20200930_170701 (Small).jpg

I am letting the last of the gas drain, then tomorrow I will clean it up and try some JB Weld. I REALLY don't want to remove the tank again...too many scews...just call me lazy...so we will see how successful I am. After wrestling UNDER the tank, chances are I will end up having to remove it anyway!! :?
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Bill Hudson
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Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Bill Hudson » Wed Sep 30, 2020 5:49 pm

Dale,

Removing an empty tank is a piece of cake! Removing a full/partially full one is another story. Grab the gusto and remove that puppy.

Bill
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist

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Mht
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Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Mht » Wed Sep 30, 2020 6:00 pm

That’s why I’m cleaning an painting my tractors even though they are going to be work horses and not show tractors. I’m much more likely to keep a nice painted tractor clean and a clean tractor is much easier to spot problems such as leaks on. If a ever buy a cub that’s got a decent paint job on it I’ll leave it be but mine will probably be Frankenstein tractors that get put together from crusty parts tractors. That’s half the fun of it to me

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Dale Finch
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Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
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Tractors Owned: '51 Cub "Bernie" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Dale Finch » Wed Sep 30, 2020 6:12 pm

Just call me a weenie, Bill! :lol:
Lifting even an empty tank off is a royal pain for me, especially will this vertical exhaust on the '51...but I will make a final decision when I get under there tomorrow. I may not have good enough access all the way around... we'll see...
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Dale Finch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 5636
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 27517
Tractors Owned: '51 Cub "Bernie" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Dale Finch » Thu Oct 01, 2020 4:45 pm

Well...might have to remove the tank, after all, Bill. No laughing...or even snickering!! :roll:

I waited the 4 hours for the JB Kwick to cure, but maybe it wasn't long enough, or perhaps I simply didn't get it completely sealed. I added a gallon of gas to the tank, and the seapage was greatly reduced, but still a small amount of wetness...not good enough. So I've drained the tank again, and am going to run away to the farm and play with my other tractors over the weekend! It's supposed to be nice weather and cooler.

I need some R&R! Will do some Zen mowing :tractor: and generally veg out! :)):

Question: Think I can just scuff the JB Kwick I've already applied, and add a layer, even though some gasoline has penetrated the existing layer?
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Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Mht » Thu Oct 01, 2020 5:15 pm

I’d scrape off what you already put on and then scuff the metal up real good and try again. I’m not sure you would get a good bond the initial j b weld

Mht
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Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Mht » Thu Oct 01, 2020 6:55 pm

If you don’t have good luck with the second round of j b weld there is a radiator and welding shop in Garner NC that I think can repair gas tanks. If you end up needing to go that route I can get their phone number for you

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Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Rick Spivey » Thu Oct 01, 2020 6:58 pm

I would definitely scrap the JB weld idea and go get it fixed by a welder or radiator shop. I think you would be better served in the long run.
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Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Dave F. » Thu Oct 01, 2020 7:51 pm

Dale, That JB kwick weld I never had any luck with it, Now the regular JB weld that takes 12-24 hours to cure . Thats the good stuff I repaired a hairline crack in a cub cyclinder head and a striped out carburator fuel line inlet.with it the head repair is going on twenty years, the carb repair about eight years, I would give the orginal JB weld a try before welding or brasing on a gas tank (you don't want it to go BOOM) Dave F.

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Lt.Mike
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Re: Update on my "new '51

Postby Lt.Mike » Thu Oct 01, 2020 7:58 pm

Dave F. wrote:Dale, That JB kwick weld I never had any luck with it, Now the regular JB weld that takes 12-24 hours to cure . Thats the good stuff I repaired a hairline crack in a cub cyclinder head and a striped out carburator fuel line inlet.with it the head repair is going on twenty years, the carb repair about eight years, I would give the orginal JB weld a try before welding or brasing on a gas tank (you don't want it to go BOOM) Dave F.

Dave, fo you think that JB weld could repair a cracked bolster?
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