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'55 Cub "Refurbishing"

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Dale Finch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 6645
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 27517
Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Dale Finch » Wed Jan 06, 2021 6:31 pm

If you still had the radiator on how to you get to the spring? Did you pull the governor? You can't remove the fan because you can't remove the shroud. I had originally thought I would be able to slide the gov lever off, but there is not enough room between it and the engine cover vertical pieces that hold the fan.

So unless I dig a deeper hole and remove the governor, I can't see any access...and not even sure the gov can be taken off with the shroud in place. That I will check in the morning.
Dale Finch
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Jim in SC
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 355
Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
Zip Code: 29527
Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)

2018 Husqvarna YTH18542

Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R."
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Conway, South Carolina

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Jim in SC » Wed Jan 06, 2021 7:41 pm

I certainly don't recommend it, but my Cub had the fan shroud cut at the top (by a PO) when I got it. I couldn't figure out why he would do that until it dawned on me that he cut it so he could remove the fan, etc. without removing the radiator. Like I said - I do NOT recommend it! I have since repaired the damage and re-used the shroud. Here's a picture after I repaired it - you can see the cut on the lower left quadrant of the fan in the picture (which is actually the top of the shroud):
shroud.jpg
shroud.jpg (26.48 KiB) Viewed 451 times
Circle of Safety
"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy

1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542

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Lt.Mike
10+ Years
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Posts: 2499
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 2:38 am
Zip Code: 07727
Tractors Owned: 1 -'58 International Cub Lo-Boy
2 - '46 International A's
2 - '52 Farmall Cubs
1 - '53 Farmall Super A
1 - ‘41 Ford 9N with a ‘49 8N Engine
1 - ‘48 (5641) Allis Chalmers G
Location: Farmingdale NJ

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Lt.Mike » Wed Jan 06, 2021 8:16 pm

Dale I saw your line to let you know how my project goes, well it’s not.
I’m not going to tackle that weeping bolt until I get more important stuff out of the way.
Mine was supposed to be a quick split, replace the TO bearing and put it back into service.
Then go back to work on my pickup.
Honestly I just feel the way my lucks been I’ll break that bolt and turn it into another huge project. Right now I’d rather have a leaky tractor that works than another project on my back. :oops:
So I’ll be watching to see how you make out with yours and maybe I can bolster up some courage if it goes well for you. ;)
Quote by Gary Pickeral I like
"If it can cast a shadow, it can be restored"

Mht
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 408
Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2018 9:02 pm
Zip Code: 27606
Tractors Owned: 1949 farmall cub(building from parts) 1950 farmall cub
1971 David Brown 880 selectamatic
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Mht » Wed Jan 06, 2021 8:18 pm

7F47FEE6-30E7-4C83-9BD9-12427ADB8D97.jpeg
The governor spring can be replaced with the radiator in place without too much trouble with a simple tool made from a welding rod with the flux knocked off or any stiff wire approximately 1/8 inch diameter. Hook the top end of the spring and then from the underside of the radiator bolster hook the wire to the spring and with a screwdriver through the loop in the wire used as a lever against the bolster stretch the spring to the proper length and with another screwdriver push the spring hook into position. The first time you do it may take a few tries but after you do one and get a feel for it you can put one on in less than a minute

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Dale Finch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 6645
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 27517
Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Dale Finch » Wed Jan 06, 2021 8:43 pm

I'm considering leaving that head bolt, too!
When I tackle projects, I do them right...usually. However, I just am not in a place (mentally) to deal with going deeper into this "refurbishing". This was NOT going to be a full restoration. If I had planned to do that, the approach would have been different. I really wanted to get it running, so I could operate it and properly assess it's needs. THEN I would decide what direction I was going to take.

I will decide tomorrow. I might try some heat, and impact wrench, but not sure just how far I will push it.

As for the governor spring, I haven't even been able to get it off! To be honest, the spring isn't the biggest problem... the slop is probably due more to the worn holes where the spring attaches. And again, I think I'll run this tractor enough to get a real feel for what it truly needs. I will just keep the list of whatever I pass on tackling now.
Dale Finch
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Dale Finch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 6645
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 27517
Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Dale Finch » Tue Jan 12, 2021 9:01 am

I was on Facebook Marketplace, when I saw for sale an old timing light and an old 6v/12v battery charger. I contacted the seller, and sure, enough, the battery charger was NOT a smart charger, so I could use it as a power supply. That's great for things like bench-testing a starter, and powering a 12v timing light on a 6v cub. The only problem was that there were no hookup instructions, and the only type of timing light I had previously used had the inductive connector for the #1 plug. Fortunately, I Googled it and found out how to connect it. It originally comes with an extra wire, but this is what I found.
20210102_121723 (Small).jpg
Timing Light connection at #1 plug

20210102_121847 (Small).jpg
Timing light connected to old-style battery 6/12v charger

20210102_123416 (Small).jpg
Distributor adjusted

My starter would not work, even with a new switch, so I had a new "nub" put on by the alternator shop (Alamance Starter in Burlington). I wanted to see the shape of a new contactor, so removed the switch they had installed, and was rather surprised at how low the contactor was. Also, there was an "arc spot" where they had obviously tested the assembly. It is already off-centered, and shows up on the contactor as well as the switch. No wonder these things get deep arcing grooves in them!!
20210105_185206 (Small).jpg
New post on starter showing contacting arcing mark

20210105_185304 (Small).jpg

20210105_185327 (Small).jpg
Arcing spot in lower left
Dale Finch
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User avatar
Dale Finch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 6645
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 27517
Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Dale Finch » Tue Jan 12, 2021 9:22 am

Since I had to drain the radiator to replace the head bolt that was seeping, I decided to install one of the Radiator Drain Cocks I had ordered from NAPA.
20210110_144015 (Small).jpg

After soaking with PB Blaster for several days, I successfully went with the recommended "heat, oil, repeat, impact wrench" scenario, using my smaller 3/8" DeWalt set low. I was VERY relieved when it came out!!
20210110_162147 (Small).jpg

20210110_162331 (Small).jpg

20210110_162503 (Small).jpg

20210110_162742 (Small).jpg

I was/am unsure of the best way to clean the bolt hole in preparation to installing a new Grade 8 bolt. I plan to install the closest length with a Grade 8 washer (Thanks Bob McCarty for the suggestion) to keep the extra length out of the water, and will be using PTFE Thread Sealant.
For now, I used a dowel wrapped with thin, tough "paper" towels soaked with carb cleaner. Using it like a ram rod, I did this numerous times until the towels came out fairly clean.
20210110_163838 (Small).jpg

QUESTION: Is there a better way to prep that bolt hole for the new bolt? I'm not sure how well I was able to clean the threads, and I don't want to use a tap, for fear it would fall out into the engine...that would be MY luck!!
Dale Finch
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Mht
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 408
Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2018 9:02 pm
Zip Code: 27606
Tractors Owned: 1949 farmall cub(building from parts) 1950 farmall cub
1971 David Brown 880 selectamatic
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Mht » Tue Jan 12, 2021 9:41 am

A gun cleaning kit is a good thing to have in your toolbox when messing with cubs. The brass bore brushes are cheap and can be had in various calibers (ie sizes) and a section of cleaning rod can be chucked in a drill and used to clean out the threads. The loops that hold patches can be used the same way to wipe out everything loosened by the brushes. Just make sure not to reverse the drill as that will unscrew the brushes or loops from the cleaning rod and create a headache at the very least with getting the brush or cleaning patch out of the hole

User avatar
Dale Finch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 6645
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 27517
Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Dale Finch » Tue Jan 12, 2021 10:09 am

Last night's task was going to be "simple"...oh yeah, riiight!!! I planned to do one of the last big tasks, since I decided to live with (for now) the slop in the governor spring.
I was just going to repack the front wheel bearings. However, when I was about to remove the left side wheel bolts, I happened to grab the wheel and it moved. I grabbed it, and could move it in/out almost 1/8 to 1/4". I figured someone had not tightened the axle nut enough, so wasn't worried. When I opened it up, and pulled it apart, It looks like I have a bigger problem.
20210111_152548 (Small).jpg
Removing the hub cap...it screws on/off!

20210111_160647 (Small).jpg
Inner bearing, oil seal and felt washer

This video shows how loose that inner bearing is. The rollers could actually fall out of the cage, and had to be pushed back in.
https://youtu.be/CPwXLKsW_bQ
So my current plan is to, at the least, replace that bearing, along with the oil seal, felt washer, and wear ring (big groove in the old one!).

QUESTION: Must you replace the cup along with the cone. In my distant past, working on airplanes, the bearing and race was sold as a set, and you always replaced them as a set. But this is a tractor, with low rpm, and the race (cup) looks OK. Also, if the outer bearing looks OK, do you think it is OK to simply clean and repack it?
Actually, just realized that in order to replace the oil seal wear ring, I probably need to remove it by removing the cup (race), anyway. So I guess the question should be the best place to order those parts...I tend to go with TM Tractor, since they are a site sponsor, but they ARE a bit pricey...NAPA, but they wouldn't have the other parts...eBay...?

Meanwhile, I will pull the right wheel and see what surprises lay therein!! :lol: Thanks for any input!
Dale Finch
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Eugene
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Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Eugene » Tue Jan 12, 2021 10:39 am

I would replace the bearing and race. The outer bearing and race, if they look OK, not replace. Other parts, order from TM.

Your auto parts store can obtain the bearing and race.
I have an excuse. CRS.

User avatar
Dale Finch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 6645
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 27517
Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Dale Finch » Tue Jan 12, 2021 10:54 am

Thanks, Eugene! I'll look things over closely, but that looks the best all 'round.
Last edited by Dale Finch on Thu Jan 14, 2021 8:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Dale Finch
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Jim in SC
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 355
Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
Zip Code: 29527
Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)

2018 Husqvarna YTH18542

Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R."
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Conway, South Carolina

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Jim in SC » Tue Jan 12, 2021 2:32 pm

Working on these old tractors reminds me of that Home & Garden TV show a few years ago (the one with Bob Vila). Bob would look up at a wall or an eave on a house they were refinishing and his side kick, Norm, would say, " Bob, we've got rot", in his priceless New England accent.

Working on a 60+ year old Cub is like that - there is ALWAYS "rot" there somewhere! :lol: :tractor: I feel your "pain" Dale!
Circle of Safety
"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy

1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542

User avatar
Dale Finch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 6645
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 27517
Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Dale Finch » Tue Jan 12, 2021 5:13 pm

Guess it just shows that servicing the front wheels really SHOULD be done more often than once in 70 years!!! :lol:
Dale Finch
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k hutchins
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Posts: 675
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:48 pm
Zip Code: 48843
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
193 plow
1948 snow/grading blade
Woods 59 C3
Cub 144 cultivator
Cub 22 mower
Cub 172 one row planter
Original manuals for all the above
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby k hutchins » Wed Jan 13, 2021 8:59 pm

Hey Dale, sorry l haven't been on lately.
To answer your question on the governor spring. I had removed the generator, fan, shroud, and air intake breather. Then because l have height and long arms l worked from the back side and not the radiator side.
I won't say it was easy, but l got it done.

Happy to see you got your bolt issue resolved, and l'm sure you'll get that front axle squared away.

Cheers
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

User avatar
Dale Finch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 6645
Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
Zip Code: 27517
Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NC, Chapel Hill

Re: '55 Cub "Refurbishing"

Postby Dale Finch » Thu Jan 14, 2021 9:55 am

Yesterday I concentrated on the front wheels. After removing the hub cap (remember it screws on/off!), I removed the cotter pin & the bearing retainer nut, which allowed the hub to slide off with the outer bearing. Wiping off the old grease, exposed the bad inner bearings.
Similar to the left side, the right inner bearing had a missing roller. Never did find it...maybe in the grease that I dug out.
20210112_120830 (Small).jpg
Right front steering knuckle

I ordered a bunch of parts from TM Tractors. I had checked for local pricing (NAPA), but some parts they did not carry or would have to order, requiring me to pay shipping. I generally like the quality of TM Tractor's parts, especially his seals, so went ahead with one single purchase...even paying extra to have them shipped UPS rather than USPS.

One tool I use seldom is the Bearing Separator (Splitter), but if you have ever rebuilt a final, you know you absolutely need it for those axle bearings/seals. I had to dust it off for the inner bearing removal, and grateful I had it!
20210113_181537 (Small).jpg
Bearing Separator Set

From the GSS-1411 Service Manual...the manual says to use a chisel to "push" that bearing out...well, no way it would move!
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-1411%20Service%20Manual%20for%20Cubs%20and%20Lo-boy%20Tractors/Section%203%20-%20Steering,%20Front%20Wheels%20And%20Front%20Axle/Page-03-03.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-1411%20Service%20Manual%20for%20Cubs%20and%20Lo-boy%20Tractors/Section%203%20-%20Steering,%20Front%20Wheels%20And%20Front%20Axle/Page-03-04.jpg

20210113_175935 (Small).jpg
Set up for pulling the inner bearing

20210113_175749 (Small).jpg
Bearing splitter placed between the back side of the bearing and the oil seal.

20210113_180244 (Small).jpg
Bearing being pulled off.

Inside the hub, there are two grooves that give access for removing the races (cups) using a punch.

NOTE: the manual says to use a brass drift, but the only one I had on hand was small, and didn't have the strength to move the race, so used the steel punch. It did the trick and caused no damage. BTW, driving out that inner race also drives out the Oil Seal Wear Ring, which showed a deep groove from the old leather seal. Removal required some pretty heavy hits with a BFH!

I had already removed the inner race, here I am removing the outer.
20210113_185601 (Small).jpg
Using punch to remove outer race/cup

Finally, I dug in with a screwdriver, removed the old felt seal, and using the bearing splitter once again, I pulled the oil seal off. Now I await parts!
Dale Finch
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