touch control system rebuild ~ barnyard bash

[Greenthumbfarms]

Well, folks, I'm hoping to make it to my first Barnyard bash this summer with my '75 Longstripe in tow.
Would anyone be up to teach me how to rebuild the touch control system on it at the bash? It started leaking pretty bad on me this year and I'm not sure i want to rebuild my first one without the help of somebody who knows what they are really doing!
Looking forward to June!

[Glen]

Hi,
If the Touch Control leaks from the front of the unit, the Control Valve o ring could be wornout, and need replacing.
The Touch Control cylinder and piston could be leaking, that is higher up than the control valve.
If the Control Valve o ring is leaking, the rest of the unit may not need rebuilding.
Use a light and look up under the front of the unit, and try to see where it is leaking.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor showing a new Control Valve o ring, it is a Case IH part, it says. There is a pic there showing where it is.
The valve pulls out the front of the block. You don't need to remove the Touch Control head, on the rear of the block, to replace the control valve o ring.
If the head end is not leaking, it is not the reason for the leak.

You may need to remove the 4 bolts that hold the unit onto the clutch housing, the tubes, and the control lever rod, and turn it to the left to get the valve out. You have to lift it some, the bolt heads for the bottom cover would keep it from turning to the side. Or you can remove the unit and set it on your work bench.
You might need to disconnect the choke cable, and move it out of the way, to remove the unit.
Drain the system first, like the owner's manual says, remove the filler plug, then the drain plug.

Whenever disassembling a Touch Control, it should be clean. Don't allow any dirt or grit inside the unit.
If you need to replace the Control Valve o ring, clean the area well, and use plenty of Hy-Tran fluid on the o ring and valve, when putting the o ring on the valve, and when putting the valve into the unit again.
Feel the area around the hole for the valve in the block, be sure it is smooth and clean.
Any roughness can cut the new o ring.
They have said on here that the o ring is a special size.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm

If you wanted, if you take the unit off the Cub, you could remove the bottom cover, and clean the strainer. The strainer is visible from the bottom of the unit, but can't be removed from the bottom.
It slides out the head end of the block, after removing the head.
Below is a listing for the strainer at TM Tractor, you can look at the pics and see what it looks like.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/918fp.htm

The bottom cover has many bolts, and a gasket, the gasket probably would need replacing if you took the cover off. TM Tractor has a new gasket. I would use some sealer on the gasket, it might help prevent seeping over time.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/471fp.htm

When you get it to work, remember to fill the unit the last time with the arms in the rear or down position, like the Cub operator's manual says.

Below is a post I made about checking and changing the Touch Control fluid, and removing the air from the system.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=106664

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the front of a Touch Control, with the rockshaft off.
The Control Valve is at the lower right, right in the pic, left on the Cub.

[Barnyard]

Would anyone be up to teach me how to rebuild the touch control system on it at the bash? It started leaking pretty bad on me this year and I'm not sure i want to rebuild my first one without the help of somebody who knows what they are really doing!

Simple answer is, I'm sure somebody will be at the Bash who can advise you on what to do. Of course the pandemic lowered the attendance last year, I am hoping we can reverse that this year.

[Greenthumbfarms]

Would anyone be up to teach me how to rebuild the touch control system on it at the bash? It started leaking pretty bad on me this year and I'm not sure i want to rebuild my first one without the help of somebody who knows what they are really doing!

Simple answer is, I'm sure somebody will be at the Bash who can advise you on what to do. Of course the pandemic lowered the attendance last year, I am hoping we can reverse that this year.

Well, whether this gets rebuilt at the Bash this year, or not, i'm looking forward to my first CubFest!

[Barnyard]

Would anyone be up to teach me how to rebuild the touch control system on it at the bash? It started leaking pretty bad on me this year and I'm not sure i want to rebuild my first one without the help of somebody who knows what they are really doing!

Simple answer is, I'm sure somebody will be at the Bash who can advise you on what to do. Of course the pandemic lowered the attendance last year, I am hoping we can reverse that this year.

Well, whether this gets rebuilt at the Bash this year, or not, i'm looking forward to my first CubFest!

And we are looking forward to meeting you.

[Cubfriend]

Come to the Bash. You will be glad you did! Always looking to meet new faces. Welcome!

[Dale Finch]

I was doing some forum searching, and came across your post. I am finishing up a rebuild on the later style TC Block, and have some good reference material I would be happy to share with you at the Bash. I also have some "special" tools for the disassembly. So bring your TC Block, and the rebuild kit for YOUR block #, plus some HyTran, Carb/Brake Cleaner, shop or paper towels, and your patience, and we'll get it done! (hopefully!!)

[Barnyard]

I will have shop towels and brake cleaner.

[tst]

just a tip, if you forget to leave the TC with arms in the down position and it did work you can use an air hose to work the TC to put it down once it is off the tractor, also a way to test it before reinstalling it, put it in a pan or have your rags ready if you do not

[Dale Finch]

Tim, do you use air after it is totally reassembled, and which port do you use...one of the 2 where the manifold attaches, or do you remove one of the plugs on the outside of the block? I have a pan and lots of rags to wipe the block off, and it sure would be better to test the rebuilt unit before installing and hooking up everything!

[Greenthumbfarms]

Excellent! I'll have the tractor in tow and a rebuild kit with me.

It.looks like the governor shaft (from the throttle lever) locked up over the winter, so the governor needs rebuilding as well. Can anyone tell me what parts to plan on purchasing?

[Gary Dotson]

I don't think you'll need to rebuild or even remove the governor, just free up the frozen throttle lever. Generously soak with Kroil, P.B. blaster or other good quality penetrant. Work it carefully, back and forth, so as to not break the lever. Cubs are notorious for that problem.

[Dale Finch]

I don't think you'll need to rebuild or even remove the governor, just free up the frozen throttle lever. Generously soak with Kroil, P.B. blaster or other good quality penetrant. Work it carefully, back and forth, so as to not break the lever. Cubs are notorious for that problem.

Emphasizing the "carefully" part of this statement. Spray, wiggle, spray, wiggle, etc...if you are careful, gentle tapping is ok, but that cast arm/lever that your throttle rod goes forward to at the governor is easily broken.

[Greenthumbfarms]

I've hit it with Kroil several times, I don't seem to be having much luck, but I never tried working it back and forth much. I can hardly get any movement out of it as it is.

[Cubfriend]

I've hit it with Kroil several times, I don't seem to be having much luck, but I never tried working it back and forth much. I can hardly get any movement out of it as it is.

Be patient, The Kroil takes a while to work. It will break if you try to hurry it along. Good Luck!