First time Cub splitting

[Lecoq]

Good afternoon all,

I'm planning to change the clutch in the next couple of weeks. I gathered valuable informations through this forum but I have one thing that keeps bothering me regarding how to support the front end.

For the rear end, I plan on building 2 supports greatly inspired by kodiak design. For the front end, 2 wedges will be used to prevent tipping but I can't really find any good place to attach my strap with my shop crane. I saw in the manual they seem to go under the oil pan with the strap. Is that good procedure? Always afraid to mess with the oil pan. Thanks for any inputs,

Eric

[tst]

make sure to put wedges in the front axle so the engine does not flop over, you can just put blocks under the oil pan then split it rolling the back half away and engine does not move

[Eugene]

I wedge the front axle/bolster.

Shop crane to front with belt/strap under the oil pan. A wide strap will not damage the oil pan.

Block the rear into place. I have two stands that fit under the torque tube and hold it at the correct position.

Roll the front away from the rear.

Some folks have a trailer jack stand converted to mount to the torque.

[inairam]

If you have a concrete floor I like to support from the bottom using a transmission jack and or motorcycle jack. I find supporting from the top with straps that the strap was always in my way.

[ntrenn]

2x bolted to the implement bosses makes a nice third leg too. Last time I split one I was going into the tranny so I just disassembled the rear one hunk at a time. Really doesn’t take all that long to get to a bare transmission.

[SamsFarm]

On a Cub, I take the starter off and attach a custom made stand there.

Bill Hudson has a simular set up to what I made.

Or you could use a nylon strap around the starter on the right and one on the exhaust manifold on left, attached to your crane or cherry picker!

I used a simular technic splitting a BN last year!
The write-up posted here!

viewtopic.php?f=177&t=106450

Good luck, be carful!

[Lecoq]

Thank you very much gentlemen for your inputs. I will keep you inform of my progress.

[Stevetractor]

Should consider doing the rear main seal while in there. Good time to drop the oil pan anyways. Clean it out good, check flanges for straightness around bolt holes from over torquing, and install new gasket. Lots of threads on here about rear seals. Fourm member tst machines the seal holder so it will accept a new modern sized seal.

[Ben B]

I’ll second that! And tst does great work.

[k hutchins]

I agree that if you're working on the engine half support it solidly and just roll the rear away from it. You already are aware of the wedges recommended for the front axle. Since l was going to be working on my engine as well as the rear seal, after removing the hood, l just removed two head bolts in opposite corners and attached it to my cherry picker withwashered bolts and chains.

Here is what l made up for the rear end to roll it back.
4x4, bent & drilled angle iron, and a trailer jack w/wheel.

Good luck

[Lecoq]

Thanks for the heads up for the rear main. I will look for tst for it as it seems to be causing issues after replacement.