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do you change your antifreeze?

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George Willer
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Postby George Willer » Tue Jan 03, 2006 12:14 pm

Paul_NJ wrote:So, does anyone still change antifreeze in their vehicles??


I had that '64 Corvair for over 20 years and NEVER changed the anti-freeze! :D
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Postby John Niekamp » Tue Jan 03, 2006 7:32 pm

George Willer wrote:I had that '64 Corvair for over 20 years and NEVER changed the anti-freeze! :D


George your PRICELESS :!: :!: :!: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I LOVE BOTH, the VW and Corvairs. They are both good little cars and fun to drive and easy to work on. I have something about them air-cooled engines that tickles my funny bone. I do have a 66 4 door Corvair with an automatic, that will be a nice little restoration project someday, with almost no underbody rust. :wink: AND I bet the antifreeze has never been changed in it either. :lol:

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Postby jostev » Tue Jan 03, 2006 8:00 pm

I agree with John, my dad usually changes the anti every couple of years, need to change it in the tractors soon...

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Postby Russell F » Tue Jan 03, 2006 8:17 pm

Paul_NJ wrote:So, does anyone still change antifreeze in their vehicles??


In the cars, every 4-5 years (just about the time it need s heater core it seems). In the diesel every 2, and check additive levels every oil change.

Russell

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Postby Paul_NJ » Tue Jan 03, 2006 8:42 pm

I'd like to say I'm too young to remember the Corvair, but that would be a (big) lie.

So it sounds like I'm due to change some antifreeze then. Guess I'd better get to it.
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Postby Lurker Carl » Tue Jan 03, 2006 9:29 pm

About every 4 years, along with belts and hoses.
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:57 pm

George Willer wrote:I had that '64 Corvair for over 20 years and NEVER changed the anti-freeze! :D
When I got Missy, I think it had been at least that long since the antifreeze was changed in it. bottom reservoilr was completely full of gunk to within an inch or less of radiator tubes.
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Postby Virginia Mike » Wed Jan 04, 2006 7:30 am

Not changing antifreeze will cause cylinder liner errosion in diesels. I know cubs don't have liners or heaters (manifold or otherwise) :D
Back in my other life as a mechanic I attended a school that gave info on testing antifreeze with and ohmeter to tell if it needed to be changed. You stuck the probe into the coolant and grounded to the block.
Now for the best part, I FORGOT what the reading was soppose to be. How's that for muddying the water!
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Postby Lance Leitzel » Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:45 am

Hi Mike,

I think the magic voltage you are trying to remember is 300mV (0.3 Volts) any reading above that means you have a pretty good battery at work eating your radiator and block (think electrolisis working against you).

For $9.00's a gallon and a little bit of time, changing it is cheap insurance, unless you are "lucky" like I am and end up needing a new radiator after I did such a good job cleaning my old one. The PO had bent the radiator and somehow managed to get it to stop leaking (I'm guessing one of those magics in a bottle) and when I cleaned out all of the junk, well I cleaned out the stop leak as well. Oh well, know I know it is right. :)
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Postby Jack fowler » Sat Jan 07, 2006 8:18 am

When I read this post a few days ago, what went through my mind was; how do you know the coolant (Antifreeze) is worn out? The coolant system is closed where contamination can’t enter; ethylene glycol and the additives will not wear out if the Engine is used at manufacture’s specifications...
What the concerns are (from the manufacture) the additives (which minimize corrosion) in the coolant deteriorates and causes Electrolysis. So if your coolant is “worn” out it would leave deposits in the coolant system causing Electrolysis. The test for Electrolysis is using a Digital volt meter; putting the positive lead from the meter in the opening of the radiator submerged in the coolant and the negative lead of the meter clamped on the negative post of the battery. Any reading over 0.3 Volts (300 milli Volts) are not acceptable.

Living in Missouri, which is the “show-me” state, I decided to perform a few tests on some available trucks and tractors to see if the coolant additives are still doing their job.

The test are on a ‘06 truck with 2,000 miles, ’99 truck with 85,000 miles, Farmall Cub just rebuilt with 2 hours running time and a 41 Ford “N” tractor that is “ran hard and put away wet” most of the time. This tractor has been worked out of the manufacture’s criteria if Ford had one at that time!!!

All had never had the antifreeze changed. Yes the “06 truck is new and the Cub is you can say “new” because I just got done rebuilding it and the coolant system is clean and has new antifreeze in the system.

Test # 1 ‘06 truck DVM readings 70 M/Volts, .007 Volts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v688/Jackf/1.jpg

Test # 2 ’99 truck. Antifreeze has never been changed since new with 85,000 miles. DVM reading 104.2 M/Volts, 0.1 Volts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v688/Jackf/100_089922.jpg

Test #3 Farmall Cub just rebuilt new antifreeze DVM reading .201 Volts, 201 M/Volts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v688/Jackf/100_09003.jpg

Test #4 ’41 Ford tractor. Antifreeze has not been changed in 15 years. DVM reading 165.4 M/Volts .2 Volts (on the high side)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v688/Jackf/100_09042.jpg

All are in specs and none of the coolant should be changed. I can understand ’06 truck and the Cub, but the ’41 tractor and the ’99 truck are past the “supposedly” life span of Antifreeze.

What puzzled me was the Cub’s reading. Very high for new Antifreeze. I started blaming it on the Antifreeze because I bought Wal-marts brand and then I started thinking I used plain well water when mixing the coolant. I see now you should only use non-mineral water, becuse it looks like I’ve already started Electrolysis!!!

Lance Leitzel wrote:
For $9.00's a gallon and a little bit of time, changing it is cheap insurance


I agree, always follow the Manufacture’s guide lines. I just have to start doing it. :roll:

Jack Fowler


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