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carb inlet helicoil

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dennnis79
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carb inlet helicoil

Postby dennnis79 » Wed Jan 11, 2006 9:38 am

The JB weld threads popped out again and I want to do a helicoil repair.

Am I correct that the threads are 1/2-20 non-tapererd threads? Also, will I need a bottoming tap to get the threads deep enough into the inlet?

Thanks.
dennis
"Hey, I didn't get a harumpf outta that guy!"

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Phillip W. Lenke
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Postby Phillip W. Lenke » Wed Jan 11, 2006 10:15 am

Dennis

Do you have access to a milling machine? I use a .515 endmill. Indicating to make sure it is square and am on center of the 5/16 hole. I set the stops,and plunge. Before removing I start tapping using the current location. Then I finish it out out of the mill. You also will have to run the helicoil about 1/2 turn from the bottom of the helicoil threads,cut it flush with the top of the carb , then run it to the bottom of the threads. This will allow the helicoil to be into the top in a full thread. I have done a few for George Willer,Donny M. And am doing Bigdogs tomorrow. I was planning to get a endmill made up with the seat, and the .515 dia built right in. just in case the bottom seat was messed up(Pittted)
Good Luck
PWL
"Work Hard ,Play Often,Care Always"

Donny M
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Postby Donny M » Wed Jan 11, 2006 7:59 pm

PWL wrote
I have done a few for George Willer,Donny M. And am doing Bigdogs tomorrow.


Phill,
You forgot to mention that you do a very good job :!: So I said it for you :lol:
8)

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dennnis79
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Postby dennnis79 » Thu Jan 12, 2006 2:31 pm

PWL,

My pop has a milling machine and this would be a nice project to give him somehting to do.

My question is how deep to set the stops for the plunge? It's hard to tell on this carb where the original threads stop. That's also probably why I can't get the JB weld threads to stay put.

And what about tapping for the coil? Is a bottoming tap necessary, or will the tapered end tap that came with the helicoil kit be deep enough?

Also, what's the prefered method/tool to trim the excess coil from the top?

Thanks.
dennis

"Hey, I didn't get a harumpf outta that guy!"

Phillip W. Lenke
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Postby Phillip W. Lenke » Mon Jan 16, 2006 5:36 am

Dennis79
Make sure you hold the carb good and tight. I took the top half and held it only,make a small fixture to hold it, will be well worth it. use the holes in the upper to hold it ,these will be enough. The depth I have found to be .360-.375 Deep. I plunge about .350 then check.
If it looks like you have'nt hit the ferrel seat go to .360 That seemed to be the safe dim. Yes you will need a bottom tap. If you can't find one, what I did first time, since I only started with the one . I tapped with the tapered ended one then I made a bottom tap out of it,so I could get it finished. I use side nippers, . You will only use about half of the helicoil. Be careful not to turn to much ,the helicoil will keep on going down and come out of its threads at the bottom. As I previously said I leave about 1/2 turn from bottom cut it to where the helicoil will just hit the last thread at the top ,then turn the rest of the way,I will have a good seat in the thread and will not pull out. I put loctite on it before I thread it in ,does'nt take much, a couple drops. Then I let it set, wipe excess out, break out the insertion tab , and run a 1/2-20 tap through to clean rest of the loctite out. They look great and are better stonger than new.
Good luck PWL
If you need any further assistance let me know
"Work Hard ,Play Often,Care Always"

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dennnis79
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Postby dennnis79 » Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:26 pm

Thanks PWL.

I gave the carb, helicoil kit and your suggestions to my pop. He needs stuff like that to keep him occupied. I think It turned our pretty well I thought.

Image

I thought we would need to clean up the ferrule seat, but it's as leakproof as a frogs fanny :) .

Also, he said that he couldn't bring himself to break off the tap, so he made his own. He said it probably didn't need hardening since we were tapping in such soft material.
Image

Everything is as good as new, and I won't fret so much if it ever needs to come off again.

Thanks again for the suggestions.
dennis

"Hey, I didn't get a harumpf outta that guy!"

Donny M
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Postby Donny M » Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:30 pm

Your pop did a fine job :!:
8)

Phillip W. Lenke
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Postby Phillip W. Lenke » Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:24 am

Tell you're POP that I wish he would have been around here. Could learn alot from him. That botttom tap is fabulous. I ended up cutting mine. But I like the clearance that his has. Great Job! Looks better than the ones I did.
Phil
"Work Hard ,Play Often,Care Always"

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allenlook
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PHP

Postby allenlook » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:32 am

Sweet!

I looked all over for helicoils yesterday and couldn't find any 1/2"-16, only 1/2"-13. So I ended up doing something else - I realized both my carb bodies were stripped in the outer 3 threads, and I could not engage any more because the compression ferrule was so long, so I ground it down to just 10% of its original size, the part that seats in the carb body, and it's working great - I have more threads engaged and I bought myself a little time before I have to go the helicoil route. The other one is in the shop with the JB Weld setting up in it, but I really want to do it permanently, especially since the steel fuel line puts so much more stress on the carb body (at least with my clumsy methods.)

Hey, what's that PHP book doing on the table?

If your Pop knows PHP he could save me a lot of work with this online database :D
Searchable Cub Parts Database and Manual Galleries at www.farmallcub.info - Computerized Carving at www.bitcarving.com

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dennnis79
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Postby dennnis79 » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:42 am

Pop don't know php from shinola. I do the php ( and other stuff ) to earn a living.

And I don't even know where the switch is for the milling machine :) . That's what he does best.
dennis

"Hey, I didn't get a harumpf outta that guy!"


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