Engine Work - Update

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Stanton
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Engine Work - Update

Postby Stanton » Tue Aug 31, 2021 3:34 pm

Doing a little engine work on my ‘47. Head bolts came out easy enough with an impact on lowest setting. A coating of copper-based anti-seize applied in 2009 did its job.
775641B3-5F20-4BA2-954B-E836C3F8D918.jpeg
Head bolts all loosed.


Before I separate the head from the block, is there any advantage to pouring some concoction into the coolant opening to help clean up those passages? Or some off-the-shelf cleaner to reduce scale, etc.?

Thanks.
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Eugene
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Re: Engine Work

Postby Eugene » Tue Aug 31, 2021 5:40 pm

Since engine is out of tractor and on an engine stand. Once head removed, coolant manifold (lower right front of block) removed, power flush the cooling system. Top down and from the coolant manifold around and behind the cylinders.

Head also.

You could let dry out then flush again.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Engine Work

Postby tst » Tue Aug 31, 2021 7:23 pm

aside from hot tank or acid you will never get all the rust scale out

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Re: Engine Work

Postby Glen » Tue Aug 31, 2021 7:47 pm

Hi,
Cub head bolts need non hardening sealer put on the threads, not anti seize.

People on here have had problems with the head bolts leaking coolant after using anti seize on the head bolts.
I would recommend you use non hardening sealer when putting the engine together.

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Stanton
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Re: Engine Work

Postby Stanton » Tue Aug 31, 2021 8:08 pm

Thanks for the advice. I agree with you, Glen, but the anti-seize looks good for being 12 years old.

Looks like there’s a leak in between cylinders 1 & 2 and 2 & 3. Plenty of carbon to clean up and bores to measure.
33E4DAE6-6175-4782-AFEB-ED285210ADE2.jpeg

F857EFED-9883-4080-BB0A-8617C2D0B5EF.jpeg

E24F1A71-1553-437A-A77A-959AE0097720.jpeg
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Re: Engine Work

Postby NJ Farmer » Tue Aug 31, 2021 8:30 pm

Use pipe dope on the threads (non-hardening) the one with the brush in the lid. Works great on sealant and will not seize the bolts… just the first couple of threads don’t goop it up…


NJ Farmer

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Re: Engine Work

Postby Glen » Tue Aug 31, 2021 11:55 pm

Hi,
It looks like you should check the head for warping, if the gasket has leaks between cylinders.

Below is a post I made with info about replacing a Cub head gasket, and sealing the bolts.
The automotive industry uses the 2 products shown. :)

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102173&p=807849#p807849

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Stanton
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Re: Engine Work

Postby Stanton » Wed Sep 01, 2021 6:20 am

Glen wrote:Hi,
It looks like you should check the head for warping, if the gasket has leaks between cylinders.

Below is a post I made with info about replacing a Cub head gasket, and sealing the bolts.
The automotive industry uses the 2 products shown. :)

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102173&p=807849#p807849


Thanks. The head gasket had Permatex Copper gasket spray on it from 2009. I'll need to have the head checked and decked, if need be.
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Re: Engine Work

Postby k hutchins » Sat Sep 04, 2021 2:42 pm

If the head checks ok, your leakage may be from loose head bolts. After l reinstalled mine to the correct ftlbs (45). I ran it for a few hours then pulled the hood and dbl checked them. 4 or 5 had to be retightened. Just an fyi.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

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Re: Engine Work

Postby Stanton » Sun Sep 05, 2021 6:12 am

k hutchins wrote:If the head checks ok, your leakage may be from loose head bolts. After l reinstalled mine to the correct ftlbs (45). I ran it for a few hours then pulled the hood and dbl checked them. 4 or 5 had to be retightened. Just an fyi.


Your and Glen’s comment had me thinking the same thing. By using anti-seize instead of thread sealant, the bolts may not have stayed torqued to spec. They all seems to release a lot easier than I expected them to when removing.
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Re: Engine Work

Postby Nelson 634 » Tue Sep 07, 2021 1:38 am

I don't think a "properly torqued" head bolt will be affected by anti-seize compound.
I believe that bolts torqued to their proper torque for the engineered threads and bolt size stretch the threads and therefore don't loosen, don't need lock washers and shouldn't be used again. That's in a perfect world.
Walter

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Stanton
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Re: Engine Work

Postby Stanton » Fri Sep 10, 2021 9:39 pm

Got the valves removed today. Valve stems and guides all felt good with no wobble. Upper part of the exhaust valves had a heavy coat of carbon.
920A328B-9457-4D79-AB6C-98C954122D64.jpeg

C5520EDC-2BDE-4F50-A02F-A6FC5E58859E.jpeg

Need to check diameters on the valve stems against specs, then on to connecting rod bearings and journals.
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Stanton
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Location: Lone Jack, MO

Re: Engine Work

Postby Stanton » Sat Sep 11, 2021 1:48 pm

Finished measuring a few things. I plastigaged all the connecting rod bearing to crankshaft journals and here's how they came out (Spec is 0.001" - 0.003") :
  • Cylinder #1: 0.0015"
  • Cylinder #2: 0.0015"
  • Cylinder #3: 0.0015"
  • Cylinder #4: 0.0010"

Each connecting rod bearing had "0.10 Over" stamped on it. Here's an example of what they looked like:
IMG_4349.JPG

IMG_4351.JPG

IMG_4352.JPG

All smooth, no burrs, ridges or gouges. Just a little discoloration.
------

Measured the crankshaft journals at the connecting rods, they came out this way:
  • Cylinder #1: 1.4931"
  • Cylinder #2: 1.4917"
  • Cylinder #3: 1.4896"
  • Cylinder #4: 1.4963"

They appear to be between STD (1.498" - 1.499") and 0.10 under (1.488" - 1.489").
-----

Measured the bores, both front-to-back and side-to-side at just below top, mid-point, and just above bottom.
Bore Measurements.jpg


Looks like the bores are slightly tapered from larger tops to (almost) STD spec bottoms.
-----

Probably need to measure the valve stems and pistons next. So, all you experienced engine overhaulers out there, let me know your opinion on my next course of action.
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Re: Engine Work

Postby tst » Sat Sep 11, 2021 6:36 pm

cylinders are worn enough to give you blowby and compression lost, crank sounds like maybe a journal or two was turned just make a repair in the past, does not make sence that all the rods had .010 bearing if the journal was standard on two of them if I am reading this right

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Re: Engine Work

Postby Eugene » Sat Sep 11, 2021 7:51 pm

Been thinking about your measurements most of the afternoon. Not wanting to spend Stanton's money.

Suggest taking the engine to a machine shop. Have cylinders and crank measured and block boiled.

My guess. Block bored to .010 over. Crank turned. Can't tell much about the valves and seats other than a lot of carbon.
I have an excuse. CRS.


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