Engine Work - Update

[Stanton]

Got the starter installed.

Planning to push rather than pull?

yes the switch is on backwards

Now that's funny! Thanks for pointing that out. Guess I could have lied and said I was planning to modify the starter rod to be like my AV or H with a foot "push" start...

[Dale Finch]

Got the starter installed.

Planning to push rather than pull?

Sorry for laughing, Stanton! I did the same thing on one with the shorter lever! I was glad no one was around to laugh at me!!

[Stanton]

Got the starter installed.

Planning to push rather than pull?

Sorry for laughing, Stanton! I did the same thing on one with the shorter lever! I was glad no one was around to laugh at me!!

Oh, don’t apologize, Dale. I’d rather laugh at myself—usually ends up that way.

Like I said, got the starter installed…

[Stanton]

The radiator is next. Chased out cap screw holes.

Ran Blue RTV sealant around each hole and a double line between each hole. Same for the top of the cork gasket.

Lastly, got the radiator in place (I think it’s not on backwards ).

Finger tightened the cap screws until the RTV began to ooze out, will wait 24 hours per manf recommendations then tighten them down.

The fan is also loosely in place…

[PFord]

VERY nice!

Curious what you used for paint for the timing marks and pointer.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub looks good in your pictures.

I suggest you paint the new governor spring if you can get at it with a spray can of red paint.
It will probably rust, it looks like bare metal.

[Clemsonfor]

The radiator is next. Chased out cap screw holes.

0C0844B1-34B1-4799-8F43-FFA0FF94FA6D.jpeg

Ran Blue RTV sealant around each hole and a double line between each hole. Same for the top of the cork gasket.
4BC798EF-4E6B-4AD1-B9B1-58AAD6E6D104.jpeg
F46EB4B7-D26A-4A49-BE50-6BBB10537A65.jpeg
F2C73F47-D824-4B1C-8FDC-4734763EC135.jpeg

Lastly, got the radiator in place (I think it’s not on backwards ).
5C161704-5090-4AA0-B76F-4D4905F04E43.jpeg

Finger tightened the cap screws until the RTV began to ooze out, will wait 24 hours per manf recommendations then tighten them down.

The fan is also loosely in place…

Wow!! Someone who actually read the directions for RTV and actually does it per recommendations!! Really helps eliminate leaks when the stuff is used properly!

[Stanton]

VERY nice!

Curious what you used for paint for the timing marks and pointer.

Ace Hardware brand Rust Stop School Bus Yellow Gloss. Had it on hand. Usually wears well.

Looks like I’ll need remove the governor spring and paint it. Some experts on here recommend that…

[Clemsonfor]

VERY nice!

Curious what you used for paint for the timing marks and pointer.

Ace Hardware brand Rust Stop School Bus Yellow Gloss. Had it on hand. Usually wears well.

Looks like I’ll need remove the governor spring and paint it. Some experts on here recommend that…

I'd leave it on there and hit it as best I could , but if it's easy to remove I guess one could pull it.

[Glen]

Hi,
I'm not an expert, I meant just paint it where it is, if you can get at it, paint will run down the inside of it too, if you can get it there.
Where I live things rust, maybe they don't rust much where you are.

[D Reid]

Great Job Stanton! I appreciate you sharing your work. The narrative and pictures are probably as much work as the work on the tractor.
Thank you,
Dennis

[PFord]

VERY nice!

Curious what you used for paint for the timing marks and pointer.

Ace Hardware brand Rust Stop School Bus Yellow Gloss. Had it on hand. Usually wears well.

Thanks. It certainly stands out. My paint marker pen didn't quite do as well as I'd hoped.

[Stanton]

I'd leave it on there and hit it as best I could , but if it's easy to remove I guess one could pull it.

Hi,
I'm not an expert, I meant just paint it where it is, if you can get at it, paint will run down the inside of it too, if you can get it there.
Where I live things rust, maybe they don't rust much where you are.

I was using a little Missouri tongue-in-cheek humor there, boys. I'm not planning to paint the spring. Wouldn't make a hill of beans difference anyway.

[Stanton]

On to other things...like the carb.

It's been sitting in an open box of parts for the last year. Gets kinda dirty in the ol' shop, so needs to be cleaned up a bit.

Dirty, dirty...

Be sure to lift straight UP on the carb top until the idle tube clears the bottom housing.

The carb was running fine when I took it off Nellie last autumn, but it's always good to start with a clean carb. Inside looks pretty clean...

Removing screws from the butterfly shutter.

Removing the idler adjusting screw and spring.

The discharge nozzle and gasket needs to be removed.

Removing the metering jet screw.

Fully disassembled carb.

I'm still too cheap to buy an ultrasonic cleaner, so some time ago, I walked into a local thrift store and bought a roaster. Since we have indoor cats, we have an abundance of kitty litter bottles that I cut the bottom off one, drilled holes in it, and use it as a parts basket. Works real good. I use the industrial version of Simple Green (which is actually purple), which you can buy at Walmart, Home Depot, Lowe's or other stores. The ratio is about 70/30 Simple Green to water. Got the roaster up to "roasting" temp, put the parts that need cleaned into the basket and submerge. Let 'em soak for about as long as it takes to cut out a couple carb gaskets...

I've developed some templates over the years and keep them in a ziploc bag inside my gasket material box.

Here's the templates I use for the manifold and carb fuel gaskets.

Gasket between the carb and manifold exhaust/intake.

Fortunate for me to find a leftover strip of cork just wide enough to use for the carb fuel gasket.

You've heard me before...lather, rinse, repeat...

Punch all the holes and inside radii first.

Finish cutting the straight lines with an X-Acto knife. Another carb gasket ready to use. New gasket at lower left; old one at lower right; template at top.

Meanwhile, parts are ready to come out of their bath...that haze is steam.

Drain all the liquid back into the roaster. I use carb cleaner to spray down all the parts, then fired up the air compressor and blew the parts dry. Make sure any tiny passages, such as the metering jet and discharge nozzle openings are clean and clear, then it's time for assembly. There's a few places that carbs can leak gas past where they should, so I use just a dab of sealant (Permatex No. 2) on the threads. It's anti-gasoline and oil, stays flexible.

Discharge nozzle threads...that's a toothpick (so you can gauge size).

Fuel needle cage...

Made new felt washers for each end of the openings at the starting shutter shaft. I left the butterfly shaft with retainer and felt washer in place (didn't replace).

Felt washer.

Gasket in place and ready to put back together. And yep, the float measures 1.4" when the top is upside down and 1.6" at full drop.

[CharlieK]

very nice job Stanton--hope you are doing well also