1952 Cub arrives in new home.

[Glen]

Hi,
I guess you bought a used clutch housing to use on the Cub.

It would have a date code on it, but look at the clutch pedal parts that it has, if any came with it.

There are 2 styles of clutch pedal free play adjustments.

The 1st was an internal adjustment. It was used up to Cub serial number 32228. Which was 1947, and part of 1948. It has no bolt at the clutch pedal base.

The 2nd was the external adjustment. It was used from 32229 and above. It has a bolt at the clutch pedal base.

You should use the style of parts that the 1952 Cub is supposed to have, with the external free play adjustment. The external adjustment is easier to adjust.
If it has the first style of adjustment, I would change it to the newer style.
The rod inside the housing, and the throwout bearing holders are different too.

If it has no clutch pedal parts in it, just put in the parts that the Cub has.

Lube the clutch pedal base with oil, there is a length of the base to work oil into.
If you have it apart, you could use grease.

Below is a page from the 1947 Cub owner's manual showing the parts the 1st style adjustment has.
The lower pic on the page shows all the parts.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-40.jpg

This page is from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, and it shows the 2nd style.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-45.jpg

[Workinprogress]

Thanks Glen,

The clutch housing I purchased had the same style clutch pedal adjustment. I removed everything from the housings. Looks like the parts from the cracked housing are in better shape. From what I can tell the the only difference in the clutch housing and parts is it doesn’t have a grease fitting for the clutch pedal shaft. Since everything is apart I will install a grease fitting before putting it back together. Spent time yesterday chasing threads on the transmission and cleaning gasket surfaces. Need to chase threads on the clutch housing before I install it.

[Glen]

Hi,
It would be interesting to know what year clutch housing you bought.

Below is info for finding the year.

Cubs have date codes cast on the larger castings of the tractor.
The codes tell the date the parts were made.
The year is a letter code.

Below is info from TM Tractor showing what date codes are.

http://www.tmtractor.com/id/id_004.htm

The page below shows where the date codes are.
The code on the clutch housing is usually partly behind the clutch pedal.

http://www.tmtractor.com/id/castdate_loc.htm

[Workinprogress]

Looking like it is from a 1948 if I am reading it correctly.

[Gary Dotson]

The grease fitting for the clutch shaft is a good idea, apparently a previous owner, of your tractor, thought so as well. They didn’t have one from the factory.

[Glen]

Hi,
Thanks for the pics. Yes, R is 1948.

[Workinprogress]

One step forward, two steps back!

Installed the new driveshaft, front transmission bearing and seals on front of the transmission. Decided to take floor off to make clutch housing install easier. When I removed the battery box I found a surprise. Seems the axle tube has a repair. Not sure how you would break that??

After I took the photos of the rear axle damage I shifted back to getting ready to install the clutch housing. Last item was to install shifting forks. After cleaning the forks I now see one has been welded. Called it a night and will reevaluate in the morning.

[Glen]

Hi,
Too bad the right side extension is broken, I can't see it in the pics too good, it looks dark.

J P Tractor Salvage at the bottom of the page probably has a used extension, if you want to replace it.
Or the place you bought the clutch housing might have it.

Below are pics of one at TM Tractor, you can look at the pics. The battery box originally uses 4 bolts to hold it on.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gdi/housing_001.htm

Hamilton Bobs has new shift forks, I think.

When putting the forks in, look closely under them, with a light, be sure the underside of them doesn't rub on the clutch shaft. People have said on here that if the metal of the fork rubs on the shaft, it can make noise.

[Workinprogress]

Better photo of repair.

[Jim Becker]

. . . Seems the axle tube has a repair. Not sure how you would break that?? . . .

Probably rusted through after multiple soakings in battery acid that was never cleaned up.

[Workinprogress]

New aftermarket shift forks arrived today and nothing seems to go right. I installed the first/reverse fork and it seems to have enough twisting/ up down that the fork drops enough to rubs on the driveshaft splines. The entire fork and shaft twist. It seems like the detent ball don’t seem the hold the shaft from twisting. This is only like 1/8” movement of the fork up or down but enough movement to allow the fork to ride on the driveshaft.

I figured I would clean the detent ball springs and sure enough the springs had a bunch of junk in them. I also noticed the balls seemed small. A quick measurement put both detent balls at 0.32. Seems like online I see the detent balls measuring 3/8” (0.375).

So are these balls a little undersized? Would that undersized ball allow the shaft to rotate slightly??

The second/third fork seems to be binding. Before I put the bolt in everything seems to work well. Once I put the bolt in the fork seems to be binding on the gear. I have to take a closer look at it to see if maybe the new fork is slightly bent or something like that. The fork mounting screw was tough to get in.

[Workinprogress]

Well shifting forks issues getting solved. The Second/third fork issue was due to left over metal from original part shearing. A little clean up with a round file and everything fit together better.

Ordered new detent ball and other parts. So hopefully that will take care of the shifting fork play in the 1st/reverse fork. Located a good used rear axle tube at JP tractor. Will order shortly.

While waiting for parts I tore into touch control to address leaking. Strainer destroyed which seemed to put little pieces of screen everywhere in the unit. Also damaged strainer doesn’t seem to have inner reinforcement screen. Will need to replace strainer. Any suggestions on that as the price seems pretty high.

Any suggestions on cleaning out all the passages in the housing? Cleaner and compressed air?

[Bob McCarty]

Dale and I measured OEM and Steiner filter screens at DSCF years ago. Dimensions were very close. Steiner's is about $10 less, but shipping cost may make a difference. There are two different rebuild kits depending on the part # of your block.

[Dale Finch]

Not sure which block you have, but as mentioned, you need to make sure you get the correct one. TM Tractors has both kits:

Early block:
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/044fp.htm

Later block:
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/627fp.htm

And there are two HOW TO instructional posts, also based on which block you have:

Early:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=89514

Later:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=42857

[Workinprogress]

Parts order arrived today! Going to be an exciting weekend.

Fingers crossed that new detent balls will keep shifting fork from rubbing on driveshaft.

Definitely a difference in size.

Left one was in transmission and right is a new one from TM Tractor.