1949 Cub Natchez MS Updates

[Bob McCarty]

TM has the thumb screws if you can't find them locally.

[Dale Finch]

Here you go:

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/3492fp.htm

[Don McCombs]

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/3492fp.htm

[cavingreer]

Well guys I'm in a pickle. I was putting the left brake drum in and it was hung up going over the shaft and key. I kept messing with it until suddenly I heard something fall and it was the differential shaft bearing retainer 350802R1. Haven't found a single hit on it anywhere. TM doesn't have it. Suggestions?

[Dale Finch]

I skimmed back over your post, and may have missed it, but when you had the seal retainer out, did you replace the large o-ring in the outside groove?

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/376fp.htm

Is the retainer cracked or otherwise unusable?

[cavingreer]

Yes I did the O Ring on the axles. This is the little ring on the upper shaft that holds the bearing in. It cracked clean in half. Probably over stressed over the years because the brake hubs weren't locked in or even had keys. There's a wear ring in the outer cover where the shaft had been against it

[Dale Finch]

Ah, got'cha! I MIGHT have an old final (broken casting) with a differential shaft still in it, that I could disassemble for that snap ring, but it could be a week or so before I can get to it.

You might try JP Tractors (link below) or DuFour Tractors for one.

[cavingreer]

Just went to the hardware store and got a 1.125 C clip that snapped right in. Looks like that'll do it

[Dale Finch]

Super! Back in business!

[cavingreer]

Not yet. It ruined my oil seal too so I have to wait for one to get here from TM

[cavingreer]

The oil seal came in and I made quick work of putting the left drive assembly back together and painting it. When I started on the other fender I realized it was the original right fender from the marks and pitting at the floorboard mount. Decided to swap it back so it would look better. Had a really bad dent in the front and had split the flare but I managed to beat it almost completely out and patch the break and another odd hole over the final drive.

Got the Mule Drive and mower deck back on today. I had to cobble all that together from a couple decks and it's always given me issues with the pivot bolts. During disassembly I found out the mule drive mounting holes had been heli-coiled. While putting it back together I found out one of the bolts probably had about 1/4" of thread in the hole. I got longer bolts and more washers to make sure it was all firmly mounted. Pretty sure this Mule Drive was home built or modified after they broke the rear end.

The other modification I made today was using some stainless steel bushings through the pivot bolts and drive holes to keep it from giving me issues wearing the bolts down.

[cavingreer]

Well I finally got it back together and did a test run.

Side

Back

Everything looked and sounded good. Then the front tire I'd had repaired while getting the rear's replaced went flat again. Found out the rim was cutting the tube stem. So I tore both down, cleaned, primed, painted. I drilled the holes out to 11/16 and put 1/2" ID grommets in to stop that.

Dirty Wheel

Painted Wheel

Of course while they are off I decided to redo the bearings. The first tractor I re-greased the bearings on, the inner cage flew off and I had to work out how to get it all back together. On mine, different bearings on each side. One has the cage and the other doesn't. That one the bearings have pins.
Anyone else see different styles of bearings before? I have the kits ordered so it'll all be matched going back. Just curious.

Left Bearing

Right Bearing