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How do you remove rust from a cub Fuel tank?
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- tractorfan1
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:03 pm
- Location: New Brunswick,Canada
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How do you remove rust from a cub Fuel tank?
The inside of my 48 cub's gas tank is badly rusted and flaking. I need to clean it because its plugging the carb. I need as many opinion's as I can get, Thanks in advance...
- Rudi
- Cub Pro
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- Twitter ID: Rudi Saueracker, SSM
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Tractorfan1:
First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met
Oh, I sent you a PM...
Now, for your question... easiest way to do this is take the tank off, purge it and take it to your local Rad Shop. In NB, Maritime Radiator is a good source. They will clean, inspect, and Red Kote the tank for around $80.00 to $100.00. You can't get POR-15 or anyother product in NB for that price. In fact, I have tried to get POR and it is illegal to ship.. only way to get a product like that is to have it trucked over the border or have a buddy bring it in.
Personally.. I think it is far easier to have it done by a pro than to do it yourself. Less muss, less fuss and no stink, bother or worries...
However if you must do it yourself, there are a number of ways to clean the tank.
You will have to purge the tank first. Make sure that there are no fumes left. Two or three flushes with cold water should suffice. Air dry. Then play with the BB's. rocks, nuts and washers etc... Then you will have to re-flush the tank sufficiently to ensure ALL of the loose crud is gone.
Then, have a look at Lurker Carl's Carb Fixes and make sure that your carb is up to snuff as well as your Sediment Bowl Assembly.
Anyways, there will be more posts with more ideas... these guys know their stuff and it works... trust me -- they taught me all I know about Cubs Sooo, welcome neighbour, and if you are in the Moncton area -- pop by for coffee and chit-chat. I can even introduce you to Ellie and Granny.
Ok, so here is the spiel :
I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.
Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These are intended to complement the businesses who support FarmallCub.com Website.
I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.
IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are two must have's in anyone's collection.
In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.
I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family
First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met
Oh, I sent you a PM...
Now, for your question... easiest way to do this is take the tank off, purge it and take it to your local Rad Shop. In NB, Maritime Radiator is a good source. They will clean, inspect, and Red Kote the tank for around $80.00 to $100.00. You can't get POR-15 or anyother product in NB for that price. In fact, I have tried to get POR and it is illegal to ship.. only way to get a product like that is to have it trucked over the border or have a buddy bring it in.
Personally.. I think it is far easier to have it done by a pro than to do it yourself. Less muss, less fuss and no stink, bother or worries...
However if you must do it yourself, there are a number of ways to clean the tank.
- 1. Steel BB's
2. 1/4" rock (crushed rock is a good source but screen em first so you don't have little stuff all over the place -- it will make a worse mess than rust)
3. Marbles (but only if there isn't anything better available)
4. Nuts, washers etc....
You will have to purge the tank first. Make sure that there are no fumes left. Two or three flushes with cold water should suffice. Air dry. Then play with the BB's. rocks, nuts and washers etc... Then you will have to re-flush the tank sufficiently to ensure ALL of the loose crud is gone.
Then, have a look at Lurker Carl's Carb Fixes and make sure that your carb is up to snuff as well as your Sediment Bowl Assembly.
Anyways, there will be more posts with more ideas... these guys know their stuff and it works... trust me -- they taught me all I know about Cubs Sooo, welcome neighbour, and if you are in the Moncton area -- pop by for coffee and chit-chat. I can even introduce you to Ellie and Granny.
Ok, so here is the spiel :
I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.
Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These are intended to complement the businesses who support FarmallCub.com Website.
I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.
IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are two must have's in anyone's collection.
In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.
I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
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- 10+ Years
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RedKote. I have use this product on several fuel tanks with good results. Costs around $20 to $30 for a quart - more than enough to finish the inside of the Cub's fuel tank. Follow the directions on the can. MAKE SURE THE INSIDE OF THE TANK IS DRY - REALLY DRY before installing RedKote. Product is supposed to cure overnight. It's better to let the product cure for a week in a warm area before installing fuel.
Available at some autoparts stores and Valu-Bilt.
Eugene
Available at some autoparts stores and Valu-Bilt.
Eugene
- DuxburyFarmall
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 11:51 am
- Location: Massachusetts, Duxbury
Tractorfan1,
Welcome to the greatest forum on the web.
i also need to do the same thing and I haven't decided if I am going to do it myself or have it done for me. (time and money are the big factors)
If I was going to do it myself it would use either Red Kote or Kreem.
Chad
Welcome to the greatest forum on the web.
i also need to do the same thing and I haven't decided if I am going to do it myself or have it done for me. (time and money are the big factors)
If I was going to do it myself it would use either Red Kote or Kreem.
Chad
'51 Cub and a 60's Cub Lo-Boy
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- Team Cub Mentor
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To add to Rudi's list of items used to clean the inside of a fuel tank. A length of chain works well. You can fish the chain out with a piece of wire.
If you are thinking about doing it yourself - go for it. It's not that hard.
Put the chain in the tank and a gallon of water - slosh. You want to make sure all of the inside of the tank gets the abrasive treatment. Rinse well with water. You may have to do the abrasive treatment several times - until no more rust comes out in the rinse.
Make sure the inside of the tank is dry. I set the tank outside in the summer sun for several days then put the shop vac on exhaust and pumped warm air into the tank for several hours.
Coat the inside of the tank. Let the inside of the tank dry for several days. After drying for several days, I again put the shop vac on exhaust and pumped warm air into the tank for several hours.
I did have one failure with Red Kote on a 50 Chev fuel tank. Heated shop in winter. I think I didn't get the inside of the tank completely dry and then the coating probably was not completely cured before we reinstalled the tank in the truck.
Eugene
If you are thinking about doing it yourself - go for it. It's not that hard.
Put the chain in the tank and a gallon of water - slosh. You want to make sure all of the inside of the tank gets the abrasive treatment. Rinse well with water. You may have to do the abrasive treatment several times - until no more rust comes out in the rinse.
Make sure the inside of the tank is dry. I set the tank outside in the summer sun for several days then put the shop vac on exhaust and pumped warm air into the tank for several hours.
Coat the inside of the tank. Let the inside of the tank dry for several days. After drying for several days, I again put the shop vac on exhaust and pumped warm air into the tank for several hours.
I did have one failure with Red Kote on a 50 Chev fuel tank. Heated shop in winter. I think I didn't get the inside of the tank completely dry and then the coating probably was not completely cured before we reinstalled the tank in the truck.
Eugene
- Russell F
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2005 5:29 pm
- Zip Code: 38370
- Location: TN, Saltillo
- Contact:
Back in the fall i repaired and coated a tank off a ford 4000 for a friend of mine. It had some pin holes and a major hole in the bottom. I cleaned the tank with water, dish soap, and 1/2" bolts. I then wire brushed and picked all the holes on the bottom of the tank with a screw driver to remove rust and loose material. Once i got it clean i patched all the holes i could find with JB weld. I let it sit for a day then i used the 3 step KREME that Donny mentioned. I got a kit of it out of JC Whitney. It came with a rust-remover, a drying rinse, and a quart of the Kreme coating. I used bolts again when i did the rust-removal process, and had enough kreme to do 2 coats. The coating is white, and it is rock hard. It did a good job and left a thick heavy coating.
Russell
Russell
-
- 10+ Years
To break up the large flakes of rust in the tank, I use a couple of handfuls of 3/8" nuts and shake the heck out of the tank. The nuts are just small enough to get past the baffle in the tank.
The Kreem kit comes with a rust removal solution (Muriatic acid, I think) which is diluted with water. I use it along with the nuts then rinse with cold water. After the rust is removed and neutralized, I use MEK (Methyl Ethel Ketone, (comes with kit) in the tank to remove all the water. Then it's time for the sealer. I don't let the tank sit too long dry, as it will flash rust. The sealer dries in about 24 hours, with good ventilation.
Most of the time I don't put fuel in the tank for several days, as other work needs to be done to the tractor before it's ready for a hood/tank.
The Kreem kit comes with a rust removal solution (Muriatic acid, I think) which is diluted with water. I use it along with the nuts then rinse with cold water. After the rust is removed and neutralized, I use MEK (Methyl Ethel Ketone, (comes with kit) in the tank to remove all the water. Then it's time for the sealer. I don't let the tank sit too long dry, as it will flash rust. The sealer dries in about 24 hours, with good ventilation.
Most of the time I don't put fuel in the tank for several days, as other work needs to be done to the tractor before it's ready for a hood/tank.
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