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Stripped screws

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Postby grumpy » Fri Feb 03, 2006 10:34 pm

I Had the same stripped screwheads on a heater fan so I epoxied an old allen wrench to the screw head and next day backed them out with a small wrench. Didn't bend any sheet metal that way. My 2cents
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Postby Rudi » Fri Feb 03, 2006 11:04 pm

John:

George's solution is classic and will usually work. Has for me on more than one occassion.

But I learned something else... sometimes, even that won't work. Soooo a chum showed me his trick. It is called a couple used nuts, a MIG or Stick Welder and heat..

If the head gets worse and you can't get the screwdriver to grip at all, then weld a nut onto the head of the screw. The heat will help loosen it up. When it is cool, re-apply Kroil, PB Blaster, SolvoRust or your favourite a few times.. then forward and back with a socket -- don't over torque or you WILL twist the head right off -- but they should back out quite nicely.

I have used this trick on the Dog Legs and on the fan shroud and a few other places including the rad drain plug... heat is a great help. So is patience -- lots of patience. Remember it took at least 25 years for the rust to take hold.. gonna take a little time to loosen up...
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Feb 03, 2006 11:31 pm

Grumpy, I'd forgotten it until you mentioned it, but I've heard of guys using JB Weld to glue in small washers, dimes, etc. to get screws out with damaged heads. Even the screwdriver bits like go in the magnetic holders would work. could be cleaned up and reused later
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You might try this

Postby Charles (49) Mo » Sat Feb 04, 2006 2:40 am

File or lightly grind two flat surfaces on opposite sides of the screw head then try a "small" wrench.

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Stripped screws

Postby dracer398 » Sat Feb 04, 2006 12:38 pm

Rudi,
That trick usually always works for me. :D But I think stick welding on those small screws might be tricky. :wink: I was going to mention welding a nut on earlier but I know that every body doesn't have a welding machine. Something that small I'd tig weld. But one could try like John said, and JB weld a nut on.

The hand impact should work too if the driver bit will hold.

With all the good advice here, something's gotta work! :D

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Postby allenlook » Sat Feb 04, 2006 5:33 pm

Fantastic advice guys!

I would MIG weld on an attachment, either a washer vertically, or a nut horizontally. Sorry I didn't understand initially that the head of the screws was stripped, I thought it was a thread issue and I didn't give you much to go on.

With the MIG setup you can tack something on and back it out within seconds. Disconnect your battery and electronics before welding.
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Postby John(videodoc) » Sat Feb 04, 2006 7:23 pm

UPDATE:

well i started the day with 4 screw heads that were bad. I went to local hardware store and picked up an impact screwdriver as George suggested. (seemed easier then grinding). SO i proceed to hammer them screws. two came out without a hitch, one came out enough for me to get a vise grip on it, and well the fourth one, a dog leg screw, the screw head screwed itself right off. got the dog leg off though. will be drilling and tapping that one but none of the others. THANKS TO ALL!!!

got the fan assembly off as well.

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Postby tomjan357 » Mon Feb 06, 2006 7:40 pm

The Sears Screw-out kit works wonders as does the bolt-out kit. Each kit is about $20 but will pay for itself quickly if you are doing much disassembly of a Cub. Combined with Kroil you can remove almost any bolt or screw. Good Luck
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Postby Dan England » Mon Feb 06, 2006 9:15 pm

I haven't seen a Screw-out kit. How does it differ from Bolt-out kit? Thanks, Dan

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Postby Bigdog » Mon Feb 06, 2006 9:36 pm

Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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Postby Dan England » Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:08 pm

Thanks, BD. Dan

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Postby Bigdog » Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:18 pm

I have one of the combination sets and it works well.
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Postby John(videodoc) » Tue Feb 07, 2006 8:38 am

whats the difference from these and easy outs? looks like nobody likes easy outs?

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Postby Bigdog » Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:38 am

The screw-outs work similarly to a left-hand drill bit. But they are designed to dig into a stripped out screw head, grabbing the metal remaining. I have removed several phillips head screws with them and they have been effective.
The bolt extractors in the kit are not designed (in my opinion) to remove rusted or stuck bolts.
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Postby John(videodoc) » Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:53 am

that i understand, i can see the use of the product. however if the head is gone entirely, are they small enough to get to the body of the screw. or should i plan on drilling and tapping? save buying that item for now.


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