Allen,
I think I can supply you with any you are missing.
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Magneto problem?
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- George Willer
- Cub Pro
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- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 9:36 pm
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George Willer
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
- Bigdog
- Team Cub Mentor
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Allen, I've got a lo-boy final drive that's cracked in 3 places that I can donate to your crack cub. Of course, it might lean a little........
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
- dennnis79
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 3:11 pm
- Location: Il, Collinsville
- Contact:
- Bigdog
- Team Cub Mentor
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- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
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When you install the new rotor, check the gear mesh closely. If there is a lot of slop, replace the drive gear. As far as why - - - unless it is gear wear from a worn drive gear, the only thing I can think of is the rotor hanging up on the cap somehow. Make sure the tower contacts in the cap are all up tight against the plastic.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
- Mag Man
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 756
- Joined: Mon Jun 28, 2004 3:34 pm
- Location: Central NY
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You need to clean that area up and fill the center of the peg with a good molly grease then fill the hole of the rotor about 1/2 to 3/4 full of grease also then set your gear to mesh in time with the line and press the rotor down tight untill it squishes out around the bottom of the rotor the take more grease and fill the reseses up good and press it in . If you use to light of grease it will get hot and run into the point chamber so use a molly high temp .I agree with bigdog look for what did that to them teeth also if you can.
JON
JON
- allenlook
- Cub Pro
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BD
I also agree with BigDog, most crack babies DO seem to lean to one side...
Searchable Cub Parts Database and Manual Galleries at www.farmallcub.info - Computerized Carving at www.bitcarving.com
-
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Thu Feb 02, 2006 2:37 pm
- Zip Code: 67357
- Tractors Owned: I.H. 300 Utility
- Location: UK
As far as repairing freeze splits in block ~ on the outside of the block~ my friend here explained to me how he did one.
He had a valuable Chrysler Hemi block- a 426 I think he said- that was a boat engine that the owner forgot to drain before winter. It froze and split.
His method was: Prepare block with V grinding and etc. Set the block up on fire brick on floor. Place a gas burner out of a central heat furnace underneath said block and connected it to a gas line. Build an enclosure of fire brick to completely encase the block, with a little hole up top to create draft. Light fire and start heating block. When it gets to his desired temperature, he pulls a strategically place brick out of the side of the "oven" to allow him to reach in to do the welding. Not sure what exact type of weld he did. Ox-Acetylene with cast rod or stick with nickel rod- can't remember right now.
Get the weld finished, put the brick back in place, shut off the gas, brick up the chimney opening and the burner opening, and let the block cool down nice and slow. Results are one repaired block with no residual stress to cause cracks. When it cools off, you take the block out and dress the weld to suit and you save a valuable item from the junkman!
I am sure there would be easier ways to house a block than using all that fire brick, but that's what he did. I suppose if you planned on doing that you could make some sort of an oven to do it in. The main thing is to have the iron all heated up to where you don't cause stress in the area surrounding the weld nor in the deck area of the cylinder which could cause some seating problems for the head.
He had a valuable Chrysler Hemi block- a 426 I think he said- that was a boat engine that the owner forgot to drain before winter. It froze and split.
His method was: Prepare block with V grinding and etc. Set the block up on fire brick on floor. Place a gas burner out of a central heat furnace underneath said block and connected it to a gas line. Build an enclosure of fire brick to completely encase the block, with a little hole up top to create draft. Light fire and start heating block. When it gets to his desired temperature, he pulls a strategically place brick out of the side of the "oven" to allow him to reach in to do the welding. Not sure what exact type of weld he did. Ox-Acetylene with cast rod or stick with nickel rod- can't remember right now.
Get the weld finished, put the brick back in place, shut off the gas, brick up the chimney opening and the burner opening, and let the block cool down nice and slow. Results are one repaired block with no residual stress to cause cracks. When it cools off, you take the block out and dress the weld to suit and you save a valuable item from the junkman!
I am sure there would be easier ways to house a block than using all that fire brick, but that's what he did. I suppose if you planned on doing that you could make some sort of an oven to do it in. The main thing is to have the iron all heated up to where you don't cause stress in the area surrounding the weld nor in the deck area of the cylinder which could cause some seating problems for the head.
- George Willer
- Cub Pro
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- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 9:36 pm
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Joe,
That's a good way to repair a freeze crack that won't have any stress until the next time it freezes. Unfortunately, there are welders out there who think they can weld a highly stressed area like the front ears on the Cub block to make it as strong as original. They're wrong. The process of welding causes changes in the metalurgy (Martinsite to pearlite or somesuch) of the parent metal adjacent to the weld that have nothing to do with stress, and can never have the strength the original part had. The weld itself may be plenty strong, but the block is weakened.
There are many Cubs that have been welded in the critical area that have not broken... yet. They most certainly will break again much more easily than they did the first time. That's why I try to discourage spending ANY money on an engine that has welded ears.
That's a good way to repair a freeze crack that won't have any stress until the next time it freezes. Unfortunately, there are welders out there who think they can weld a highly stressed area like the front ears on the Cub block to make it as strong as original. They're wrong. The process of welding causes changes in the metalurgy (Martinsite to pearlite or somesuch) of the parent metal adjacent to the weld that have nothing to do with stress, and can never have the strength the original part had. The weld itself may be plenty strong, but the block is weakened.
There are many Cubs that have been welded in the critical area that have not broken... yet. They most certainly will break again much more easily than they did the first time. That's why I try to discourage spending ANY money on an engine that has welded ears.
George Willer
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
- dennnis79
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 119
- Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 3:11 pm
- Location: Il, Collinsville
- Contact:
Thanks Magman. That the guidance i needed. I cleaned it up and re-greased with the hi-temp molly. It's running fine once again. Other than all the old grease in there, I cannot figure out why it stripped in the first place. Perhaps a complete rebuild of the mag is in order. I'll keep and eye on it.
Thanks again.
Here's a couple of pics of the $#!+ job someone did on my basket case.
http://core.federated.com/~dennis/Pictures/2004/Cub/pages/IMG_2014_JPG.htm
http://core.federated.com/~dennis/Pictures/2004/Cub/pages/IMG_2023_JPG.htm
The one on the bottom looks like it leaked a bit, but not enough that I had to refill after every use. I didn't know about the repairs until I did the engine rebuild, 10 years after I had the tractor.
I was in a fret, because I didn't want to over bore cylinders on such a poor block, but I got lucky and got a fantastic deal on a NOS block.
I've been hanging on to the old block, but I doubt that I'll ever have a 2-ton door to prop open . So unless someone near me wants it, I'm probaly going to take advantage of the current scrap prices, if i can find a scrap yard.
Crack Baby. That hilarious
Thanks again.
Here's a couple of pics of the $#!+ job someone did on my basket case.
http://core.federated.com/~dennis/Pictures/2004/Cub/pages/IMG_2014_JPG.htm
http://core.federated.com/~dennis/Pictures/2004/Cub/pages/IMG_2023_JPG.htm
The one on the bottom looks like it leaked a bit, but not enough that I had to refill after every use. I didn't know about the repairs until I did the engine rebuild, 10 years after I had the tractor.
I was in a fret, because I didn't want to over bore cylinders on such a poor block, but I got lucky and got a fantastic deal on a NOS block.
I've been hanging on to the old block, but I doubt that I'll ever have a 2-ton door to prop open . So unless someone near me wants it, I'm probaly going to take advantage of the current scrap prices, if i can find a scrap yard.
Crack Baby. That hilarious
dennis
"Hey, I didn't get a harumpf outta that guy!"
"Hey, I didn't get a harumpf outta that guy!"
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