Okay, the cub now runs like a top--even better than I had hoped. In fact, it runs better than my truck. Anyway, it appears that the clutch has some issues. When you push the pedal, it goes far enough for the engine to slow, but the clutch is not engaged--gears grind. The adjustment under the pedal is maxxed out. What next? Is this something that can be fixed without splitting the tractor. That is something I would like to avoid, if possible. The thought of it terrifies me.
Thanks.
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So I guess the clutch is next
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Splitting the tractor to replace the clutch is not a big deal. There should be a number of posts with different ideas on how to split the tractor.
If the person working on the Cub has split any tractor before - he will have no problem with the Cub.
The biggest problem is supporting the torque tube and lifting - pulling the engine forward. How to support and seperate depends on the equipment you have available.
I'm happy the tractor is finally running.
By the way. I'm getting really good at splitting the Cub. It takes about 4 hours to split and put back together or as Bid Dog says "Not longer than a 6 pack".
Eugene
If the person working on the Cub has split any tractor before - he will have no problem with the Cub.
The biggest problem is supporting the torque tube and lifting - pulling the engine forward. How to support and seperate depends on the equipment you have available.
I'm happy the tractor is finally running.
By the way. I'm getting really good at splitting the Cub. It takes about 4 hours to split and put back together or as Bid Dog says "Not longer than a 6 pack".
Eugene
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There may be some adjustment left on the clutch pressure plate fingers. The "How to" section of this site has posts explaining the process.
I do not recommend adjusting the fingers at this point. I would split the Cub while it's in the shop. I would change the throwout bearing. Depending on condition, I would probably change the disk.
Eugene
I do not recommend adjusting the fingers at this point. I would split the Cub while it's in the shop. I would change the throwout bearing. Depending on condition, I would probably change the disk.
Eugene
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Hi Lollis,
I am assuming that you mean that you are unable to completely release pressure on the clutch for full disingagement ?
My guess is that the clutch material is used up, or has torn away from the rivits holding it in place.
But first things first. You might just be able easily "unscrew" the shaft that pushes the throw out bearing against the clutch fingers via the access hole on the bottom of the bell housing.
This is what I did last weekend (with the engine not running - and a battery cable disconnected) I just unscrew the wing nut on the access hole on the bottom of the bell housing and remove the round cover. Take a peek with a flashlight and eyeball the distance between the throw out bearing (doughnut - on the rear side) and the clutch fingers (front side). If you have more than about 1/8" gap, you may get along by just removing the cotter pin and shaft holding the "fork" to the bottom of the throw out bearing, and turing the fork on its threaded rod until the bearing is almost touching the fingers. Put her back together and give'r a try.
I am assuming that you mean that you are unable to completely release pressure on the clutch for full disingagement ?
My guess is that the clutch material is used up, or has torn away from the rivits holding it in place.
But first things first. You might just be able easily "unscrew" the shaft that pushes the throw out bearing against the clutch fingers via the access hole on the bottom of the bell housing.
This is what I did last weekend (with the engine not running - and a battery cable disconnected) I just unscrew the wing nut on the access hole on the bottom of the bell housing and remove the round cover. Take a peek with a flashlight and eyeball the distance between the throw out bearing (doughnut - on the rear side) and the clutch fingers (front side). If you have more than about 1/8" gap, you may get along by just removing the cotter pin and shaft holding the "fork" to the bottom of the throw out bearing, and turing the fork on its threaded rod until the bearing is almost touching the fingers. Put her back together and give'r a try.
Rick 1948 cub
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There are two different clutch over center adjustments. Early Cubs had an internal adjustment - inside the torque tube. Later models have an adjustment on the clutch pedal - just under the foot pan.
You have a 48 with an external adjustment. You can check but I do not believe there is an internal adjustment for your tractor. Rick's 48 has the internal adjustment.
I have a 49 Cub and there is no internal over center adjustment for the clutch.
Eugene
You have a 48 with an external adjustment. You can check but I do not believe there is an internal adjustment for your tractor. Rick's 48 has the internal adjustment.
I have a 49 Cub and there is no internal over center adjustment for the clutch.
Eugene
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First, we are going to check to see if the clutch is stuck to the flywheel, as some others have experienced. Like I've said, this tractor probably hasn't been driven in about 15 years, so I think that is certainly possible. If that's not it, and it cannot be adjusted to work, I plan to replace anything that is worn while the tractor is split. I don't plan to make splitting a frequent occurrence.
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