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Pulling Engine

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John(videodoc)
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Pulling Engine

Postby John(videodoc) » Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:26 am

Okay, pulling engine saturday in the demo. got the manual. have been studying it all week. Any tricks that i should be aware of?? That will be easier to reconnect it???

I will be taking it in to be serviced, as i am sure that is beyond me, and the limited tools i have.

What i'm thinking is timing? Do i have to have something at something at a certain location before i remove it? Also i have to remove all components from the engine, to include distributor. Any info is greatly appreciated. THANKS. John

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EZ
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Postby EZ » Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:45 am

doc,

The tricky part I found was the timing marks on the governor/idler gear meshing. I think the "dot" you will be looking for on the gear that is in the tractor behind the governor can only be seen from the dist. side of the gear.so both will have to come off. I had to check and double check to make sure the meshing was OK when re-installing the governor. As for the dist. you should only have to orient the pointer to the #1 plug and install back on with the tractor in #1 TDC compression stroke, and then fine tune the timing from there.

Clear as mud? Good thing you have a manual, I could never work without one.
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Postby Bigdog » Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:53 am

Doc, since you are going to have the engine re-built etc. the position of things is pretty much immaterial at dis-assembly. It is during re-assembly that you will need to watch things.
It is when you are doing something like mag or distributor maintenance or repair and are going to re-install the unit without doing engine work that you need to watch positions before dis-assembly. In other words, if I need to do maintenance on a distributor, putting the tractor at TDC on #1 cyl on compression makes it easier to re-install the distributor in the correct position.
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Postby George Willer » Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:58 am

Here's one thing... If you are lucky enough to be able to remove the nipple the lower hose goes on it will make rolling the front assembly away much easier. The nipple prevents jacking the engine up to get the front pulley clear of the radiator base.

I've thought of drilling a hole through the nipple to permit using a bar instead of a pipe wrench. The wrench flattens the pipe a little and makes it grab harder. It's just a common 1 1/4 black nipple, so don't worry about destroying it. Buy a nipple twice as long and cut it in the center... then you'll have a twofer. :D

Here's another thing... use a drift punch to drive the locating dowels at the clutch housing out before loosening the bolts... one forward and the other rearward. Then it will come apart easily.
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