Good and Bad News

[John(videodoc)]

The Good news, just escaped from work for a minute, to check in at CaseIh on my demo rear end, final drives/transmission/engine. Everything was in prestine condition. Just needed new seals and a good cleaning (thanks to the sandblasting ) THey should have it all put back together in the next day or so. even going to mount motor for me. brakes clutch were good, put in new TOB.

The bad. well the torque tube, rear axle and finals were exposed to mositure and the engine (not as much) after being sandblasted. so there is a lite coating of surface rust.

whats an easy way to get that off. should i go ahead and rattle can paint a primer on it, as it may be a while before neighbor and i get to primer everything???????????????
john

[cowboy]

John there is a product called rust-mort. That will take the rust and convert it to a paintable surface. You can find it or somthing like it at auto parts stores that have painting supplies. Or you can use a wire wheel and wheel it off.

Billy

[Bigdog]

Doc - any time you clean something either by sandblasting or electrolysis you should give it a good wipedown and immediately give it a coat of primer to prevent flash rust. When you get yours home, give it a quick cleaning / brushing, wipe the surface down and prime it.

[gunny]

You can find a product called EXTEND in the NAPA stores. Also can be found in a paint/coating outlet. Stuff kills rust and can be directly painted. Do NOT use it on bare metal, won't work. Light surface rust is what it works best on. Turns black in a while. Good stuff, relatively non toxic. Been using it for years. Not sure I'd use it on interior surfaces but elsewhere, go for it.


Gunny

[meandmydeere]

I use a product called Jasco prep and primer. You can pick it up at Lowe's. It comes in quart plastic bottles and cost about $3.00 a quart. It is a very thin almost water like substance. I put it in a spray bottle and apply it that way. If you have sand blasted or used a lye solution to remove paint, you spray this on. If there is rust present, it will kind of foam up. Just let it dry. I have had parts such as axel housings stored under a tarp in the back yard for 2 years and there is no rust. When your ready to paint the parts, just wash them off with a garden hose and let dry. They are ready to paint once dry.
Mark

[Davesaver]

As with any rust treatment product you'll want to remove as much of the rust a possible. Rust treatments usually work in two ways.

1) A single stage product that is absorbed by the rust and a chemical reaction takes place converting the rust into an inert compund usually dark gray in color. The common ingredient in most of these is a form of phophoric acid. Use a good respirator as mentioned and eye protection. Generally the instructions will tell you not to sand these products once you have applied them. This is to prevent oxygen from be reintroduced to any remaining rust still underneath that was not converted. This is why you want to get as much off as you can before you apply it. Once the rust has absorbed what liquid you have applied it seals over and there can still be rust underneath.

2) a two stage rust converter with primer can save a step but you'll need to watch for compatiblity with any other primers your using. Best to let it dry thouroughly to avoid unwanted reactions. because the converter is mixed with the primer it's effectiveness is mildly compromised. The primer can get in the way of the conversion process and once it starts to dry it seals any uncoverted rust in.

It's more work but my preference is to use the single stage converter let it dry completely depending on temperature it could take a while the slower it drys the better chance the rust has to absorb it. All finish sanding should be done before applying the converter and then primer. Any additional sanding can be done on the primer being careful not to sand through to bare metal where you have treated for rust.

It is not uncommon for concerned painters to treat all surfaces before painting especially in moisture prone climates. Non heated environments such as garages, barns, sheds and the great outdoors. where flash rust is a way of life. Carefull when applying to not use any greasy rags or rags that may have exposed to other contaminents such as WD40 or other petroleum or silicone based products. A clean scotch brite pad and rubber gloves works well helping to agitate the surface a little while applying it. A paint brush works well also.

Dave