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Cub Starter

The Cub Club -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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David D. smith
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 194
Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 6:25 pm
Location: Boston, NY 14025
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Cub Starter

Postby David D. smith » Fri Apr 07, 2006 8:59 pm

My #2 cub started cranking very slow. I checked the battery 6.4 volts, Thats good, checked the battery with a hydrometer, It was well in the green area.
I figured it must be brushes. I ordered new brushes and bushings from Case IH. The book shows that both bushings are the same. Not on this starter, The bendix end is larger.
Taking the starter apart I found that the last time the starter was rebuilt, when the grounded brushes were installed the pig tails were not tucked down under the grounded brush holder. The lead on it is a bare braded pig tail ended with a screw terminal. What happened was when the brush wore down a little, it allowed the grounded pig tail to touch the post on the insulated brush holder pin. Shorting out the armature windings.
I turned the comutator a little and under cut it, I installed the new brushes even though the old ones were wore down only about 1/16 inch.
Incidently, the new brushes measured only 1/2 inch long.
This is a tough starter to work inside of being so small.
I nstalled the new brushes with the end cap off. I put the wire and brush on tight then loosened the screw 3/4 turn. I lifted the brush in the holder and used a 8 penny finishing nail spaned between the two side brush holder pins and under the brush. I did all 4 this way. Then I put the armature into its bushing and carefully removed the nails. Then I tightened the brush screw securley. I found one of the old brushes wore more on one side than the other, thats why I tightened them up after they were against the comutator. Then I slid the case with the field windings on and connected the leads from the field windings to the insulated brush leads. I found one screw hole striped on the field winding and had to use a tiny screw and nut.
I didn't think to get a new stud for the switch when I was at the dealers. Before installing the case I unsoldered the field winding leads and turned the stud 180 degrees. It was wore (burned down) from the switch contacts. Before re soldering the leads, I removed the field windings and gave them a coat of Gliptol (Electrical insulating paint). then reinstalled them and silver soldered the leads back to the stud.
I installed a new switch and tested it on the tractor. It spins like new.
Then I removed it again and gave it a coat of paint.
Another project completed. Some day I will give this tractor a complete refurbish.
Dave <*)))><
Dave <*)))><

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Patbretagne
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
Posts: 1051
Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 6:45 am
Zip Code: 00000
Location: Finistère Bretagne France

Postby Patbretagne » Fri Apr 07, 2006 9:36 pm

A Pro job
Pat

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Rick Prentice
Team Cub Guide
Team Cub Guide
Posts: 5636
Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 7:24 am
Zip Code: 43528
Tractors Owned: 47(circle cub),48(Floyd backhoe),49,,51,54 and another 55
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: OH, Holland
Contact:

Postby Rick Prentice » Sat Apr 08, 2006 6:49 am

Thanks Dave. I need to copy your instructions and give one of my starters the "going over". Looks like you covered about everything. Hope Rudi see's this post. Great job, Rick
When I told my dad I've been misplacing things and doing stupid stuff----His reply---"It only gets better"

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DuxburyFarmall
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 535
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 11:51 am
Location: Massachusetts, Duxbury

Postby DuxburyFarmall » Sat Apr 08, 2006 9:09 am

Great information Dave!

Chad
'51 Cub and a 60's Cub Lo-Boy


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