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Oil Fill Plug For Rear Axel

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Bob Grieb
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Oil Fill Plug For Rear Axel

Postby Bob Grieb » Mon Jun 05, 2006 7:17 pm

After looking for a drain plug on the axel housing I went to the owners manual and it tells me I need to remeve the housing to change the oil. Looking at the filler plug I see that it is a square recess. Does someone sell a wrench for that type of plug? I have never seen a square cavity in a plug

Thanks

Bob

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Eugene
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Postby Eugene » Mon Jun 05, 2006 7:22 pm

Try a 3/8 or 1/2 inch socket extension.

Eugene

Bob Grieb
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Postby Bob Grieb » Mon Jun 05, 2006 7:39 pm

Eugene

Sometimes I do not think my brain is engaged. The 1/2 inch is not a perfect fit but it does work.

Thanks

Bob

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Postby cowboy » Mon Jun 05, 2006 9:11 pm

Hi Bob

You can also get square drive sockets from sears craftsman. If they haven't been over tightened you can use a 12 point socket. Their is also a level plug on the left side of the torque tube. You may want to consider flushing it with kerosene. About two weeks I posted pictures of the inside of the trans under the shifter housing with two hole that feed oil to the trans berings that get pluged up you may want to look at.

Billy
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Postby Bob Grieb » Mon Jun 05, 2006 9:55 pm

Hi Billy

Earlier last week I had the shifter assembly off and flushed the trany but I was not aware of the lubrrication holes you referred to in you photos. Tomorrow I will take it back off and check the holes.

Thanks for the info on sockets

I will also have to find the level plug you refer to. I did see a small plug on the side of the tranny. That may be what you are referring to.

As I am draining the various gear boxes I am not refilling them until I get teh frame painted. I am coating the gears to avoid oxidation


Thanks for your help

Bob

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Postby siii8873 » Tue Jun 06, 2006 11:16 am

I was going to ask a related question about this. How do you drain this area. I see the square fill plug and the small level indication plug but no way to drain the fluid without removing the half round pan on the bottom. Is that correct? If this is the way what type of gasket do I need to put it back together. One of my priorities is to change all the fluids on my cud as I don't have any idea when they were changed by the previous owner.
"May the current be with you and the wind at your back"

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Postby Bob Grieb » Tue Jun 06, 2006 11:57 am

I referred to the Owners manual and it is my interpretation that you need to remove the pan to change the fluid. If the gasket is in bad shape I will most likely make a replacement from bulk gasket meterial.
I am on my way out the door to remove the pans and check the tranny lube holes that Cowboy mentioned in his post. When I opened the tranny earlier I found that it had grease in it and I washed it with kerosine but didn't know about the lube holes.

Bob

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Postby Bigdog » Tue Jun 06, 2006 12:00 pm

You are correct. You drain by removing the pans. The gaskets are easily made but are also available from Case IH.
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Postby bigdaddy » Tue Jun 06, 2006 12:15 pm

Hey Bob

We had the same trouble figuring it out but then saw those square plugs and sure enough. We used a 1/2 socket and wedged a screw driver in the corner and out it came. The drain is under the pan that covers the rear drives. Good Luck.

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Postby cowboy » Tue Jun 06, 2006 7:04 pm

Bob go ahead and slap me :!: I was thinking the axel that is part of the trans. I think of the housing with the bull gears as a final drive too much running a dozer I guess. As the others have said a 1/2 extension.

Sorry Billy
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Postby Donny M » Tue Jun 06, 2006 7:23 pm

Try this for draining most of the fluid from the finals:

Remove the fill plug. Go to wife's cooking drawer and hijack a turkey baster. On the end of the turkey baster attach a flexable tube about a foot long. Place the the end of the tube in the fill hole and snake it toward the bottom of the pan. Squeeze the bulb on the baster and release. The fluid will suck up the tube and into the baster. This may need to be done several times and most but not all of the fluid will be removed. Sure saves on making gaskets.
8)

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Postby Bigdog » Tue Jun 06, 2006 7:25 pm

How hard is it to sneak the baster back into the kitchen drawer? :?: :?:
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Tue Jun 06, 2006 7:44 pm

It is much safer for your domestic life to go to your local auto parts or farm supply store and get one of the squeeze bulbs used for filling batteries, and put a tube on it. i think you will find there is a problme with sufficient clearance to get a tube all the way to the bottom of the housing though.
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Postby Bob Grieb » Tue Jun 06, 2006 9:05 pm

I should have read your tips before I removed the pans. I was not prepared for how full they were so the first one caused a large spill.
I did need to remove them as I wanted to inspect teh gears and I did not know when the last time the pans had been off. More Fun :D :D :D

I have them off now but if I were to do it again I would try the baster.

Can I use "Permatex Silicon Gasket Maker" or do I need to order repalcement gaskets.

Thanks

Bob

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Postby Donny M » Tue Jun 06, 2006 9:08 pm

If your going to pull the finals you can easily make your own gaskets using the casting. It's much harder making gaskets using the pans. If you're not going to remove the finals, I'd buy the gaskets.
8)


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