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rear main seal
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- 10+ Years
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rear main seal
The new rear main seal I got is a little loose in the retainer. My dad sprayed some copper coat and said it should be fine. I am not sure though. I saw in a post that you can get it modified but not wanting to do that is there any kind of sealer that I need to put between the retainer and seal other than copper coat?
Thanks
Thanks
Down here in cajun country!
Breaux Bridge, La
http://photobucket.com/albums/y235/kylev/Tractor/
1951 Cub Serial #1221xx
Breaux Bridge, La
http://photobucket.com/albums/y235/kylev/Tractor/
1951 Cub Serial #1221xx
- AlanPCUBS
- 10+ Years
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- Location: Brighton, CO
This is a very comon problem. You can do a search on this topic and find many posts a replies on it. In short I used JB weld on mine and have had no problems. Some guys have used pyrmetex also. But yes use somthing besides coppercote, or Im affraid you will be splitting your tractor again! Good Luck Alan
- Don McCombs
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1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
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1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
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The retainer is cast aluminum. I'm not sure it will take much "peening". Here's a better solution.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12962&highlight=rear+main+seal
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12962&highlight=rear+main+seal
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Well I forgot to say that . My dad did peen it. I guess thats what you call it. He took a punch and punched it several times around the housing then added coppercoat. Will this work or should I dont something else?
Down here in cajun country!
Breaux Bridge, La
http://photobucket.com/albums/y235/kylev/Tractor/
1951 Cub Serial #1221xx
Breaux Bridge, La
http://photobucket.com/albums/y235/kylev/Tractor/
1951 Cub Serial #1221xx
- John *.?-!.* cub owner
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- Bus Driver
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In several different threads, I have noticed that the rear seal retainer has been described as aluminum. Today I happened to pick up one of these, part#251363 R1. It is entirely possible that some of the retainers were made of aluminum as I have actually handled only a few of them. The one I have is obviously not aluminum, much too heavy. Without actually testing the metal, my guess is that it is zinc. The difference is not that important, but those who mention peening for resizing the seal pocket might consider that zinc crumbles easily when flexed more than a minimal amount.
Luck favors those who are prepared
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Now that we all know what peening is..........................
Lock the seal in place with Hi-Temp (Black) PERMETEX.
The retainer is made out of aluminum to the best of my knowledge having seen two of them.
The peening has worked for me and the PERMETEX locks it in real good.
Good luck.
PS. Do not go nuts with a ball peen hammer to "peen" around the bore of the main seal. A punch is all you need to deform around the bore with the peening method.
Bill
Lock the seal in place with Hi-Temp (Black) PERMETEX.
The retainer is made out of aluminum to the best of my knowledge having seen two of them.
The peening has worked for me and the PERMETEX locks it in real good.
Good luck.
PS. Do not go nuts with a ball peen hammer to "peen" around the bore of the main seal. A punch is all you need to deform around the bore with the peening method.
Bill
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the rear seal retainer is made out of potmetal. It like aluminum but has other alloys. I have posted a fix for the rear seal before but maybe it wasnt on this site.Its been sevrial years ago. I came up with a way to pin the seal inplace. This has been the cheapest and best fix. I have been using the pin system for over ten years with no problems. first install the seal with a good silicone. i use GE sillicone 2 clear. This will insure a good seal to the potmetal retainer.. remember most of the problems with real seal leakage is the seal coming loose. after the sillicone sets up (about a hour) you will need three 1/8 by 3/8 inch long pins. I found some long brass or aluminum rivits at the hardware store that work well after i cut to length. then I drilled three 1/8 inch holes spaced evenly around the ratainer going just through the rubber coated metal seal. carefull not to drill too far and damage the seal where it meets the crankshaft. Then drive in the 1/8 pins just through the seal. it should be a tight fit. you may want to use a slightley smaller than 1/8 bit if you have one but a 1/8 bit seems to work for me. then if there is excess sticking out just grind off. you will have a permanent fix. The real reason the seal comes loose is because the potmetal and metal in the seal expand at a different rate. eventually letting the seal work its way out.
Collector of Farmall cubs and cub cadets.Injoy helping people keep their cubs running. Years of experipnce.
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wwirz wrote:Now that we all know what peening is..........................
Lock the seal in place with Hi-Temp (Black) PERMETEX.
The retainer is made out of aluminum to the best of my knowledge having seen two of them.
The peening has worked for me and the PERMETEX locks it in real good.
Good luck.
PS. Do not go nuts with a ball peen hammer to "peen" around the bore of the main seal. A punch is all you need to deform around the bore with the peening method.
Bill
What PERMETEX exactly are you referring to. I have gone to their website and was trying to find the one you were referring to but there are a lot of choices. Can you point me in the right direction? I want to buy this for more than the rear seal . I would like to have this type of sealant on hand for other seals I come across later that I will be replacing on my cub
http://www.permatex.com/products/automo ... ealant.htm
Is this the one you are referring to?
Also I have to replace my mag/govenor seal, should I use this PERMETEX on this seal to lock it in place?
Down here in cajun country!
Breaux Bridge, La
http://photobucket.com/albums/y235/kylev/Tractor/
1951 Cub Serial #1221xx
Breaux Bridge, La
http://photobucket.com/albums/y235/kylev/Tractor/
1951 Cub Serial #1221xx
- oronc
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- John *.?-!.* cub owner
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ORONC, the problem is nto who made the sela, but the fact it has changed over the years. If you have one of the ealrier retiners with the part number (on engine side) ending in R1, the original size seal is nolonger availale form any manufacturere, including IH. Teh rubber mount helps slightly, but not enough for it to work without some modification. My suggestion to anyone that has the earlier style retainer is to contact Rick Prentiss (billyandmillie) anf echcahnge your R1 retainer for one he has modified for a different seal. if you don't wnat to go to all the problems of using the sealer, peening it, etc. The new styel retianer is available form dealers ( part number 251363R21) but is around $125. it does come with a new seal
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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- 10+ Years
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I have finished with the rear seal. What I was asking the question for is for the seal I am replacing now which is the mag/govenor seal. Should I put it in with grease or some sort of sealer like PERMETEX?
TY
TY
Down here in cajun country!
Breaux Bridge, La
http://photobucket.com/albums/y235/kylev/Tractor/
1951 Cub Serial #1221xx
Breaux Bridge, La
http://photobucket.com/albums/y235/kylev/Tractor/
1951 Cub Serial #1221xx
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