NOT WORKING!!!

[01AFcub]

Hello all,
So I stll cannot get my small electrolosys bath to work. I cant figure what I am doing wrong. I am limited in my supplies and resourses. As i am a mechanic I have everyday acces to a battery charger, but its a pulse charger from snap-on. Does it being a pulse charger have anything to do with it? I have some scrap stainless for the sacrificial piece, its clean. My leads have 12 VDC but I cannot get any current flow. I knonw its a redundant topic but i just cannot seem to get it right. I may just have to wait to get home and get the right pieces parts sos to speak. Thank you for your help yet again.
matt z

[Rudi]

Matt:

Can you post a pic of the setup you have? As for the pulse charger -- what is the primary use of a pulse charger??

[Mac from NS]

My charger wouldn't work for me because it needed a battery to charge so I put one in and run the wires from the battery to the tank and now you couldn't ask for anything better. Hope this helps you.

[Into Tractors]

Matt, think the problem is the charger. When my neighbor and I built our tank, he tried using two of his chargers and neither would work.

I ended up using an old Schumacher charger I had laying around, and it worked like a charm.

The problem was that the new chargers are "TOO" smart. They have now installed semiconductors and circuitry that prevent you from hooking the terminals backwards, as well as the overcharge protection feature, etc and this causes the problems a lot of folks have seen when using them with the electrolysis tank.

As Mac already mentioned, one way to get around the problem is to hook a battery in-line with you tank, in order to "fool" the charge so that is will produce the amperage.

[Matt Kirsch]

Matt,

First, stainless is BAD to use as a sacrificial piece if I've been reading the threads on electrolysis correctly. It gives off toxic fumes. Use plain old re-bar, plain old steel, and your lungs will thank you.

Second, how are you measuring Amps? You can't just touch the two battery cables with your multi-meter set on the AMPS function. You'll blow the meter in a split second, then it will look like you're getting zero Amps.

To measure Amps, you need to disconnect one of the battery cables and put a known good working ammeter in between the cable and the first rebar. The meter has to be a part of the circuit to measure Amps. Just don't run it like that for long or you will burn out the meter, since most meters are limited to 30 seconds or less when measuring Amps. Check it, then go back to the original configuration.

[George Willer]

The problem is, as others have said, that the pulse charger has to be fooled into thinking it is actually charging a battery. There has to already be a voltage on the leads or it won't work. The battery in the circuit will do that, but it would be better to use an old style charger.

The ammeter on the charger will work fine as an indication of current flow... that's what it's for. There's no need for a different meter. Current flow can be increased by adding more electrolyte.

Based on what chemistry and physics I learned about 1950, it's the rust on the work piece that's sacrificial. The stainless shouldn't be sacrificed at all unless it's attacked chemically by the electrolyte. The problem with the anodes is because of DEPOSITS.

[David C]

I read somewhere a long time ago, a man used a DC welder for the power source... I think he was using it to do whole 16' utility trailers..

Never tried it (Welder) but it sounds feasable.. For a larger project

David C

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

For anyone considering a welder, don't forget the operting expense. they require quite a bit of current, jsut idling. Not built for efficient operation.

[Eugene]

Cheap/no cost 12 volt DC power supply for your electrolois tank. Power supply from a junk computer.

Plus 5.5 volt DC. -5.5volt DC. +12.0 volt DC. -12.0 volt DC and zero volts. 15 amps. That's from an old Compac computer. It takes a volt meter and a bit of time to check the voltage and tag each lead. School used to get donated computers. Most were junk but had good power supplies. Used the power supplies in shop projects.

Eugene

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

i had heard pc power supplies mentioned before, but didn't know if they delivered engouh current.

[Eugene]

On the old Compac PCs. The power supply had a bundle of wires comming out. Each wire was solid and very small. We sorted out the wires by voltage, then bundled like voltages together to form a lead. These power supplies were rated at 15 amps.

[Rudi]

Eugene:

Dang Why didn't I think of that... I must try one and see if there is enough.. 12 V DC red wires.. for sure.. if they were all connected.. there might be enough juice.. Will have to check it out and see what it can do......

Could be way off base here.. but.. hey can't hurt to try..

Did a quick Google on Computer Power Supply Pin Outs. Here are some interesting links:

Computer Power Supplies
Pin Outs and Stuff
Computer Ports and Pin Outs

This might be of some help Matt....

And now I understand the pulse type Battery Chargers.. it is what I thought, but gee I hate to feel dumb which does happen more than I would like

[Into Tractors]

Computer power supplies can definately be used. I experimented with one when I first built my tank.

I was lucky enough to "Obtain" a very heavy duty power supply from a piece of electronic gear at work, that had lost the 5V leg. But, the other portions worked fine. So, I mounted it into a plastic box to keep it dry, and it works great.