New Cub Carrier - Photo

[JohnL (BlackJeep)]

We'll I finally got a Cub Carrier so I can bring my toys with me... It's a single axle 2990 GVWR trailer that weighs about 600 lb. I picked it up from Tractor Supply Company in Winsted, CT.



It was a bit of a compromise. I wanted a trailer big enough for both Cubs, but with a kid leaving for college in two weeks I had to trim the $ a bit.

I was wondering what you guys have done for tie downs. I plan to buy chain and a ratcheting chain binder, but have you made any brackets or anything for attaching the chains to the tractor? What are the best places to chain the tractor down?

As always, thanks for your help.

BlackJeep

[48 BARNEY CUB]

I BOUGHT MY CUB FROM GEORGE WILLER HE TOOK A BOLT AND RAN IT THROUGH THE HOLE WERE YOU PUT THE HAND CRANK WELDED THREE CHAIN LINKS TO THE HEAD OF THE BOLT WORKS GREAT TIE DOWNS NEVER CAME LOSE ALL THE WAY HOME & ON THE BACK I HOOKED MY TIE DOWNS TO THE DRAW BAR SAMETHING THERE NEVER MOVED ALL THE WAY HOME OVER 350 MILES. TRY THAT YOU WILL LIKE IT.

[LARRY BALL]

THERE ARE SEVERAL METHODS OF TIE DOWNS. FROM CHAINS AND BINDERS TO RATCHET STRAPS. I MYSELF PREFER THE LATTER. WELDED TO MY TRAILER ARE STRATEGIC PLACED RINGS FOR HOOKS. I USE THE 2" NYLON RATCHET STRAPS. THEY ARE MUCH LIGHTER AND DON'T RUST OR BANG UP YOUR EQUIPMENT. I USE THE THREADED EQUIPMENT BOLT HOLES AND HAVE THREADED EYE-BOLTS I SCREW IN THOSE HOLES. I HAVE ALSO HOOKED ONTO THE FRONT AXLE TUBE AND AT THE REAR ATTACHED TO THE DRAW BAR. THIS WORKS FINE FOR SHORT TRIPS. BUT FOR THE LONG HAUL AND IF IT'S ON A BUMPY ROAD I USE THE FIRST SYSTEM. IF YOU ARE TOWING ON A BUMPY ROAD OR HIGHWAY THE CUB IF NOT TIED DOWN PROPERLY WILL MOVE AROUND JUST FROM BOUNCING. DON'T ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS

[George Willer]

A picture is worth a thousand words, but I can't take credit for the idea. Gary Dotson used a similar one when he brought Shorty back after working on him. This is my interpretation of Gary's idea. It's the best tie-down I've seen... it can't do any damage at all to a nice paint job and it's secure. IIRC, the 5/8" bolt is 7" long. The nut is simply drawn up hand tight on the inside.

[Jackman]

A picture is worth a thousand words, but I can't take credit for the idea. Gary Dotson used a similar one when he brought Shorty back after working on him. This is my interpretation of Gary's idea. It's the best tie-down I've seen... it can't do any damage at all to a nice paint job and it's secure. IIRC, the 5/8" bolt is 7" long. The nut is simply drawn up hand tight on the inside.

WOW I like that its simple and does the job , thanks for posting the pic

[JohnL (BlackJeep)]

George,

That's a great pic and a great idea, many thanks to Gary & George!

I may have to make one of those, but I'm not sure I possess Gary's welding skills. I'll post a pic myself if I give it a whirl.

BlackJeep

[Harold R]

I took 2 tractors to the texas tumble on a 16ft double axle trailer. I wished I had trailer brakes.......but I took it easy and had no trouble. About 300 miles on good roads. I used 3" nylon straps with ratchet fasteners....stopping about every 100 miles to check tension. Never developed slack.

['Country' Elliott]

Hey Blackjeep...Nice lookin' trailer son! You can run rachet straps from your "A" frame up to your front axel. You can (as I do) use shop rags wrapped around your front axel to protect it as you rachet it down. For the back of your Cub...try rachet straps runnin' from your drawbar to the rearsides of your trailer (I can't tell from your photo if you have tie down brackets on your trailer or not). I've trailered my Cub on my 6'X10' trailer that way when I brought her from New Hampshire to Tennessee with no incidents at all. I now use my 6' X 12' trailer for my Cub haulin' and use chains and binders runnin' from the drawbar to the trailer tie-downs...but I still use the rachet strap tie down "A" frame front method and I've hauled it a LOT of miles successfully!

[Ron Luebke]

could you not use a long shank eye bolt thru the crank hole to get the same results as the welded chain in the pic.

[George Willer]

could you not use a long shank eye bolt thru the crank hole to get the same results as the welded chain in the pic.

You certainly could, and it would work. Consider this: The proper way to tie down is with two separate chains (or straps) at a forward,outward angle. The chain link welded at a downward angle with the two separate links to fasten to eliminate a lot of side pull on the anchor point. The part that may be criticised is the use of a single point for anchoring.

Here's another way to tie the front end down without damage to the paint, but it does put the paint on the front axle at risk. It does provide two separate attach points.

[Ron Luebke]

two ratchet strap off the front eye considered one or two?two straps on front and two on each side,would this be over kill?

[George Willer]

two ratchet strap off the front eye considered one or two?two straps on front and two on each side,would this be over kill?

Ron,

No, it wouldn't be overkill. The recognized best way to tie down is 4 separate ties, one toward each corner of the trailer. That's the best way to keep the load from moving in any direction. The side straps would be better on the rear.

[Ron Luebke]

thanks GW .plan on hauling mine to kodiac's cubfest and possible a labor day parade

[Ron Luebke]

one more ? what size strap should i use 2500 lbs,5000lbs or bigger?

[Bigdog]

I use straps with a 10,000 pound rating.