Buzzard , same as your axle, after cooking,but not stuck

[Cecil]

I'd better be careful. If Pris starts getting rid of things that are in her hair I just might be next.

[Jim Becker]

What do you need. I think rebar and wire correct? Jackman. If the oil tank is plastic you're ok. Steel will conduct electricity and not work so good. Eventually the process will eat a hole in it. I think. But maybe the experts on electrolysis know.

Put a negative line on the tank and it will be fine. If might rust if it stands around unused with solution in it, but not while in use. In fact, with a - lead on the tank, you can clean parts by just putting them in the tank. An electrical connection to the tank is the only connection they need. Of course, if the inside of the tank is rusty, you will be derusting the tank I have a stainless steel tank. I have used to rerust parts.

[Jeff Silvey]

When you guys are putting this idea together take different pics of the different tanks at different angle's that you build for us people that can't be at the fest . Then someone can put it in the form arcive list. I know I have seen these on this form before but we all forget where to look
Jeff

[Buzzard Wing]

I was going to try to be neat, orderly and etc like Rudi's tank.... but it needed to be in operation NOW.... So I took my 18V DeWalt circular saw and hacked the top off the 55 gallon drum that was behind my garage for 10 years or so.


Not rocket surgery.... I use the cheap plastic clamps from Lowes (to hold the rebar), rebar (SS is banned in my garage), a variety of jumper cables and a scrap 1x4 with a couple of eye hooks in it. The two big secrets are, keep the rebar clean (that job rots, a wire brushing every day and a wire wheel in the yard after a few days) and good connections.

It is probably best to give a joint compound bucket a test drive (that one has a bamboo plant stake as the 'holder') to test it out.