well i have been having some problems with my cub ive been using it quite abit to do some grading using both the grading blade and a box scaper and i have noticed on several occasion that it starts to miss and looses power i could still use it but it would die before it would spin the tires, ive solved the problem by cleaning/replacing the plugs 2 of which have noticable biuldup ive also noticed more "oil" smoke from the exhaust, ive also replace the "auto" wires my gramps put on some time ago and also the what apears to be original cap i would have replaced the rotor but my local place didnt have one anyway i was using it the other day and shut it off and came back yeasterday to try and use it and couldnt get it started first i tryed with the crank then i went and got the battery jumper box which usually gets it the first try but all i get are a few puffs from the muffler and nothing, since then ive drained all the old gas and filled with fresh just in case there was water in it but still the same thing and it has spark
could the engine be to low on compression to start i did a check when i got it a few months ago and they were all 75-80psi i will do another one tommarow my grandpa once told me it died on him in the field and he couldnt ever get it restarted so he reringed it that was in the late 70s i think
even though it would be wise to split it and have the block machined i dont want to have to since i dont have anywhere indoors to do it and winter is coming i would proboly just due all the gaskets "it leakes from about all of them anyway" adjust the valves, rings and rod bearings since its low on oil pressure and there apears to be a slight rod knock at high idle but i assume to replace the mains bearings i would have to split it
also one last question is it normal to get alittle grinding when shifting to any of the gears from nuetral with the clutch in because i get alttle but if i remmeber to idle down its less
sorry for the long post let me know what you all think
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starting problem
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Subs, pick the low hanging fruit first!! Compression doesn't go south overnight (unless you've go a valve stuck open) therefore it would follow that the engine is likely ok, leaving fuel and igniton as the probable culprits. I "thought" I had spark and fought a Cub and JD B for months when my son said "lets try new plugs". Bought 2 AL 388 for the JD and it was night and day; followed w/ 4 for the Cub and they fixed it's problem, which, incidentally, was identical to yours. Dress the points, clean the carbon off the 4 "electrodes" inside the distributor cap, assure copper core wires, good fuel flow, etc, and you should be home. Post yr findings.
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i cleaned and adjusted the points first but the same thing it would just putt putt and nothing so i replaced the plugs with new ones and wala fires right up, the sad thing is i just put new plugs in last week they lasted about 5hours
what i dont understand is why even after cleaning them it wouldnt start, i guess ill just have to keep changing them untill i can rering this tired C60
thanks for the replys
also any ideas on the clutch problem
what i dont understand is why even after cleaning them it wouldnt start, i guess ill just have to keep changing them untill i can rering this tired C60
thanks for the replys
also any ideas on the clutch problem
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Re: starting problem
subs1000w wrote:plugs 2 have noticable buildup. I've also noticed more "oil" smoke. Compression all 75-80psi.
wise to split it and have the block machined.
"it leakes from about all of them anyway"
there apears to be a slight rod knock at high idle
a little grinding when shifting gears.
A complete tune up would do wonders. However, I believe it's time for a complete overhaul.
You will need to split the tractor to check out the clutch, throwout bearing and to replace the rear seal. Splitting will definitely make the overhaul much easier. Plus, if machine work is required, you will have to split. So go ahead and split.
Block machined. Perhaps and perhaps not.
Eugene
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