Fri Nov 03, 2006 11:18 am

Dennis,

The negative lead goes to the part to be cleaned.

You may want to read this: http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
8)

Fri Nov 03, 2006 3:07 pm

Dennis:

Yup George and Donny got you straightened around on that. You know, I didn't include a pic of the charger.. and I should have. That has always been a problem. I should do that. Will try tonight.

It is a simple battery charger. Not one of those automatic ones cause they will shut off immediately. Just an elcheapo from Canadian Tire..

The positive leads go to the re-bar and the negative lead goes to the part being cleaned.. pretty simple. Sometimes it gets confusing if you do not get the circuit memorized. As in all things Cub.. waste not want not is the operative phrase. So when you buy 3 or 4 sets of booster cables.. you always end up with more black than red.. so sometimes you use black leads to the positive... ooops :roll: :oops: :roll: :oops: :roll: but a lot better than throwing em out. Course, I guess we could paint em.. maybe....... :!:

Thanks for the kind words, I do appreciate. You can see the tank also being made at CubFest Northeast 2006 on the Photo Host. Also, at any CubFest I go to, I am always willing to build 1 or 2 or 12.. :!: :idea: :lol:

Fri Nov 03, 2006 4:06 pm

Rudi,
I only bought two (2) sets of jumper cables and one (1) roll of red tape.
The one oddball black clamp has red tape wrapped around the handles.
Of course I do have one leftover black one. Hmmn.........electrolysis........hair remover.......... :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
Peter

Fri Nov 03, 2006 5:40 pm

Peter Person wrote:Rudi,
I only bought two (2) sets of jumper cables and one (1) roll of red tape.
The one oddball black clamp has red tape wrapped around the handles.
Of course I do have one leftover black one. Hmmn.........electrolysis........hair remover.......... :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
Peter


Never thought of the RED TAPE :shock: :lol: :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:38 pm

I am starting my part cleaning adventure tomorrow. I have a 55 gallon plastic drum, a box of TSP and not a clue how much TSP to use. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:48 pm

Mike:

If you have a 55 gallon barrel.. fill it 7/8's full.

If you have a 2 lb box of TSP.. PUT IT ALL IN :!: :idea: :lol:
If you have a 1 lb box.. get another..
8) If you have a 4 lb box.. put in half :wink:

stir gently, let it come to a slow boil... and watch as the rust disappears..

Sat Nov 04, 2006 12:03 am

Rudi wrote:It is a simple battery charger. Not one of those automatic ones cause they will shut off immediately.

Would a battery also connected to the charger solve that problem?

Sat Nov 04, 2006 12:10 am

Jim Becker wrote:
Rudi wrote:It is a simple battery charger. Not one of those automatic ones cause they will shut off immediately.

Would a battery also connected to the charger solve that problem?


Jim:

Yes it would and from what I understand, even a dead battery -- one that won't hold a charge would work as well.. but I have yet to try it or prove it.. Mostly cause I use a cheap charger.. This one currently lists at $39.99 and is not on sale. Mine was on sale for $29.99 I think...

Image

Motomaster Manual Battery Charger, 6/2A

Re: Electrolysis Before and After?

Thu May 24, 2007 7:23 pm

Cecil and I came to the same conclusion based on a few years experience. Using TSP you just have to clean the parts and let them dry after a trip in the tank. You can then hang em up and forget about them until it is time to prime ALL of the parts for that particular project. They will NOT RUST. I cannot explain it.. it just IS..


I have been using washing soda for about 2 years now. I just finished converting my tank over to TSP a couple of hours ago. I am a HAPPY convert to TSP now :D For others wondering if TSP is worth the added cost, YES IT IS. I am seeing about twice the reaction that I saw when I used washing soda. I have the steering arms off my Cub in the tank now and can already see a change, I am hoping that they will free up so I don't have to take a torch to them.

EDIT: After 2 days in the tank the first steering arm started to free up, but it will be winter before I can continue as I need the tractor to mow. :D
Last edited by RockClimb on Thu May 31, 2007 10:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Thu May 24, 2007 7:56 pm

That's what I like to see, another happy Customer :wink: 8) :lol: :lol: :lol:

Welcome to the family RockClimb..

Thu May 31, 2007 10:27 pm

Rudi wrote:That's what I like to see, another happy Customer :wink: 8) :lol: :lol: :lol:

Welcome to the family RockClimb..


Thanks Rudi! I have been a lurker to the forum since I started restoring my grandfather's 1951 cub last year. It has been a slow process as I work on it in my spare time.

Re: Electrolysis Before and After?

Wed Aug 28, 2013 1:32 am

Yes...what about non ferrous metals? Will they clean up too?

Re: Electrolysis Before and After?

Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:15 pm

lucky1:

Do not put copper, aluminum or brass in the tank. They could be damaged. Electrolysis is best suited to steel and cast iron.

Re: Electrolysis Before and After?

Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:25 pm

Use an ultrasonic cleaning machine for small non ferous stuff, I have one I use for antique brass hardware, aluminum castings might be better off by soda blasting. Your call

Re: Electrolysis Before and After?

Wed Sep 04, 2013 9:37 am

Electrolysis will remove the oxides from all the common metals, need to be careful on the selection of an electrolyte. I have cleaned brass, silver, aluminum but mostly was not worth the effort.