Cub Tip of the Week!

[Rudi]

I keep wishing I could find a tip each week, but unfortunately I do not see them all and am depending on other members for tips to the tips Thanks to WisconsinCubMan for catching this one

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by Peter Person on Mon Nov 29, 2010 7:55 pm Post subject: Re: Who to call?

How To Properly Install a Steel Fuel Line

It also helps to install the fuel inlet line before you tighten down the carb to the manifold. Cecil taught me this sequence:

1) Carb upside down attach the choke linkage.
2) Carb rightside up attach the throttle/governor linkage.
3) Mount carb to manifold loosely.
4) Install & tighten fuel inlet.
5) Tighten carb to manifold.

Never fails.

Peter

[Rudi]

I keep wishing I could find a tip each week, but unfortunately I do not see them all and am depending on other members for tips to the tips This week it seems we got two of them, so many thanks to BigDog for pointing this one out

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by midmo on Mon Nov 29, 2010 7:55 pm Post subject: Re: To much oil pressure?

How To Remove a Stuck Oil Pressure Relief Valve

Got the valve out. Thanks Eugene for the tip. Here is how I got it out. I used a 7/16 dowel and cut a notch in the end and made a wedge to swell the end when it hit the bottom of the valve. The spring free length is real close. Haven't figured how to get the 9 1/2 lbs for the spring test length. I'll change the oil and filter and see how the pressure is. Thanks for all the help.





Ron in Mid Missouri

[Rudi]

This week we are off to an early start thanks to WisconsinCubMan for pointing this one out

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by bear32055 on Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:32 pm Post subject: 5 cent fix for overflow tube

How To Cheaply Repair a Broken Overflow Tube

All 3 of my Cubs have the overflow tube broken off and this may not be a correct police type fix it certainly worked and can be done with the hood on. Drilled a 9/64" hole in a 1/4 inch bolt and a jam nut on the outside of the neck. The bolt fits right in the broken tube and the threads help hold the tube in place.

[Rudi]

This week's tip is a really useful one for when we are searching for parts on line. NAPA was always a difficult search for the uninitiated but thanks to John *.?-!.* cub owner it won't be so onerous in the future

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by John *.?-!.* cub owner on Sat Dec 18, 2010 8:36 pm Post subject: IH/Napa part numbers

How To Properly Search For Cub Part Numbers at NAPA OnLine

To find IH part numbers on the NAPA sight go to http://www.napaonline.com
On the left side of the screen click on advanced search
When it asks if you are looking for a specific vehicle, click NO
Enter the IH number in the part number search line (no spaces) and click on Interchange button under part number and then click SEARCH

385703r92 steering shaft oil seal on cub shows NOS 8660, which is the one I put in the 48 I rebuilt this summer

Super A head gasket 301366r1 shows FPG 7732S

You can either order on line, or take that number to your local NAPA, and they will think you are the greatest customer they have.

[Rudi]

This week's tip is a different take on finding TDC. Sometimes being able to accurately find TDC on #1 can be challenging to many of us, however Gary seems to have a fool-proof technique to resolving this arcane skill Thanks to Winfield Dave sharp eye:!:

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by Gary Dotson on Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:34 am Post subject: Re: Is Bashful napping or ???

An Alternative Take on Finding TDC When Timing A Cub

Observing valve function is my favorite method of locating top dead center, for ignition timing purposes. I don't watch the valves on #1, however, but #4. As the piston approaches TDC. the exhaust valve is closing and just it reaches TDC, the intake valve will start to open. I stop at that point & align the timing mark. That's TDC on #1 cyl. It's easy & totally fool proof.

[Rudi]

This week's tip is on the IH 3/4 Updraft Carb. For many of us we may not have an inlet screen so it is very easy to replace, but for those who actually have an inlet screen - how do you take it out? Thanks to one of our resident carb gurus Don McCombs the fog has been lifted:!:

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by Don McCombs on Sat Mar 26, 2011 12:12 pm Post subject: Re: How to Replace Carburator Inlet Screen

How to Replace Carburator Inlet Screen

Push the old one out from the inside of the fuel inlet with the short end of a small Allen wrench. Then, push the new one in with the eraser end of a pencil.

Whoops, forgot to tell you to remove the needle and seat first

[Rudi]

This week's tip is again on the IH 3/4 Updraft Carb. For many of us we turn to a wire wheel to help clean up the crud and corrosion from years of use. However thanks to a little on-line research we now have a new method to utilize:!:

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by tnestell on Sat Apr 23, 2011 1:56 pm Post subject: Re: Carb rebuild at Barnyard Bash

How to Build a Soda Blaster For Carb Cleaning & Rebuilding

I contacted Nate and he has graciously given permission for us to link to his excellent article on Soda Blaster For Carb Cleaning & Rebuilding. This is a must read article for anyone who plans on rejuvenating with their carbs.

[Rudi]

This week's tip is courtesy of Don McCombs eagle eyes

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by marrstree on Sun July 24, 2011 9:17 pm Post subject: Re: Removing output shaft pilot bearing (bushing)

How to Remove An Output Shaft Pilot Bearing (bushing)

As a first-timer, I read this forum for how to extract the brass pilot bushing. Since I didn't have a 3/4 tap, as suggested, I tried a different approach and it worked.
I had an automotive bodywork dent puller. It is a slide hammer wiTh a threaded end. I found a mating bolt, connected it with a nut, and with only very slight grinding of the bolt hex head corners it slipped right into the bushing. I just caught the backup edge of the bushing with the bolt head (moving it around a bit) and pulled it right out with just a few hammers. Might not work for one really stuck, but worked for me.

[Bigdog]

A great tip of the week from Chief:

How to remember when you did the last maintenance on your tractor and what you did to it, I know a lot of you Guys have a good memory, But for me at 65 some things are starting to slip. Even when I write it down on something I forget where I wrote it down or where I put the Information, So I came up with this idea, A small Pill bottle and a tie tie strap I typed out the Info. On the computer and made it the size I wanted it to be and put it in the Bottle and strap it to the tractor, this is for my Ferguson TO-30
Now if I can remember where the tractor is i’ll have it made.

[Rudi]

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by Rick Prentice on Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:51 am Post subject: Re: Expert advise Please!

How to Accurately Determine TC Fluid Level

To get an accurate reading on the t/c fluid, make sure the rockshaft arms are rotated back so the t/c cylinder rod is retracted. If you're unsure which way that is just look under the hood and watch the cylinder rod work back and forth. If its not retracted youll get a false reading and youll overfill things. This step is usually missed when checking levels on hydraulic equipment.
Rick

[Rudi]

I know it has been quite a while since I have added a Cub Tip of the Week. However, John has come up with a great one and I felt it should be included in the Cub Tip of the Week

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by John *.?-!.* cub owner on Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:51 am Post subject: drilling out dogleg screws

Making Do With What You Have

The cub I was repairing the touch control on had a dogleg screw broken off in the steering side radiator casting, but luckily it was the front one which is easier to get too. However when I was removing the rear screw it broke too, which is a little more difficult. I did not have a right angle drill small enough to go in there, nor a bit long enough to reach past the steering housing, so after looking through my assorted junk I came up with this. I had three or four 1/4 inch drill motors that had not been used in many years, so one of them became a chuck donor, I mixed up some JB Weld and spread on the threads of a 3/8 fine thread bolt, then screwed it in good and tight. The JB Weld is so I can use it with a left hand twist bolt if I ever need too. I cut off a dull 5/32 bit and resharpened it, and was in business. I did remove the 2 bolts in the seal holder for the steering shaft to get a little more room. The 5/32 bit is very slightly large for the 10/24 tap, but I did not have any numbered bits, which is what it should have been, but all seems ok.

[Rudi]

I know it has been quite a while since I have added a Cub Tip of the Week. However, Bill has come up with a great one - not exactly a tip but more of an explanation to those of us who are somewhat electrically challenged which I felt it should be included in the Cub Tip of the Week

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by beaconlight on Thu Jan 10, 2013 8:11 pm Post subject: Amp Meter ?

Batteries

A battery is like a bucket in some ways. If the bucket is empty it take more water to fill it than if it is half full. If a new battery is fully charged and you start right up you only took a little electricity out so it will recharge (fill up) quickly. An old battery is like a bucket with some small holes in it. It takes longer to fill up.
Kind of a simplified way to look at it but it kind of works that way.

Bill

[Rudi]

This is something that I am kickin' my tush on. Being a cabinet maker one would have thought that this would have been a no-brainer for me. To tell the through, I never even thought of it. Some glad Raymond did. It is so slick I felt it should be included in the Cub Tip of the Week

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by RaymondDurban on Sun Feb 03, 2013 4:52 pm Post subject: Mag oil seal n stall question

Making a Magneto Seal Installation Tool

The following steps only work if you have wood working tools available...

1) Take a small piece of hardwood and plane it down to the correct thickness (23/32"), or as close as you can using a caliper to measure the board.
2) Then take a new seal and trace an outline of it on the board. Cut the outline out of the board on the inside of the line, so it's a bit smaller in diameter than the seal.
3)Cut out another circle, larger than the seal and stack it on the first circle you cut out. This will create a "lip" so that the seal isn't driven in too far. Drill a hole through both and bolt them together.
4) Now you have a driver that is the correct size as to equalize the contact points, and thickness so that the seal is set to the proper place.

I've made a few like this and they work great!

[Rudi]

This is a tip that is long overdue for inclusion in the CTotW. Somehow we missed this a few years ago and I am glad it has been brought back up. It is a neat solution and another instance of use what you have to get the job done.

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by Boss Hog on Sat Dec 12, 2009 7:44 pm Post subject: Spacers for the square nose cub hood

Making Spacers For Square Hood Cubs

After much searching,I came across a union that joins two threaded rods together. It is almost perfect. It comes 1 1/2 inches long and has to be cut down to an inch. The cost is less than $1.50 each. After cutting down, I cut off the end of a 5/16 grade 5 bolt and used loctight to bond it in the sleeve. It is a good fix for the hard to find originals.


Boss

[Rudi]

Some may say Cub owners are cheap, but I prefer frugal, and this tip is a real frugal one. Use what you have.

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by BIGHOSS on Tue May 14, 2013 12:17 pm Post subject: Re: PTO help please

Leveling a Mower with a Story Board

I am still too cheap to get one of the guages. What I use is a 2x2 or 2x4 block about 6 inches long. I reach under the mower deck and stand the block upright. Then I rotate the blade until the cutting edge contacts the block, making a mark. I then go around to the other side and repeat to see if the other blade marks the block in the same place. If not adjust one side accordingly. Repeat until the marks are aligned.