Whoops I did it again!

[Shotgun_13601]

Cousin and I took a ride today to buy some parts to start assembling a snow plow. (By the way...if anyone has a pair of those 2"x2" spacers and the 12" 5\8 bolt you are my new best friend. ) Anyhoo... guess who bought another cub. I'm now the proud owner of a very ratty looking 1954 with an underslung exhaust.

She starts right up even after having been dug out of the snow drift in back of the shop", and runs beautifully and quiet with excellent oil pressure and no smoke. I guess i can tolerate a few eccentricities like the chicken wire grill, Truck tires and a "cob-job from an old case" seat.

Wish me luck ye knights of cubdom cuz we start strippin her down tomorrow.... stay tuned for before during and after photos.

[KETCHAM]

Congrats on the find!!sorry no help on the blocks or bolt.T and M might though.I'm sure you want to get the blade going.Ketcham

['Country' Elliott]

Hey Shotgun...CUBGRATULATIONS on your find Sounds like a REAL Diamond in the rough son

[Jeff Silvey]

Did you get any pictures
Way to go. Anotherone saved.
Jeff

[Ron Luebke]

congrats on #2

[bobburke]

Now when it comes to truck tires, don't knock it till you try it. I like to refer to them as long wearing turf tires. http://new.photos.yahoo.com/loboy55/pho ... 23172246/5

[Ralph]

i think i have a pair of the blocks if you need them let me know.

Thanks Ralph

[1stCub]

I wanted to get my plow in action fast so I went to the hardware store and bought two , I think 1 1/4 to 1/2 inche pipe reducers that fit perfect. Ran the bolt through and its been working ok. I'll have to get the blocks one of these days.

[WKPoor]

Back when I had a blade on my Cub I also needed the blocks and long bolt. You can do it all out of the McMaster Carr catalog. They carry a 2x2 UHMW block. Cut to length and drill all the way through it. They also carry the bolt or just use a piece of 5/8" rod and drill lynch pin holes at each end. The plastick worked perfect. Its plenty hard enough and will actually support the bolt the whole distance. Won't rust so it never gets stuck. I used at least 7 yrs with no sign of wear.

[Jim Becker]

The plastic blocks sound reasonable and probably would work fine as just short blocks on each end. I don't think I could drill a hole long enough to do it in one piece.

Don't think I would go along with the rod and lynch pin choice though. Using a bolt and tightening it properly will make the 2 sides of the hanger assembly squeeze the ends of the lifting lever bushing. Keeping this tight will help keep the lifting lever in line. This in turn helps keep the lifting lever from rubbing the side of the steering gear housing. Adding a flat washer at the left end of the bushing helps eliminate the rubbing too.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I tried the rod and lynch pin setup, and it bent, as did a grade 2 bolt. you need a grade 5.

[George Willer]

Rubbing on the steering gearbox is one of my concerns that I expect to address after I have the tractor back together. I used a solid 5/8" rod with lynch pins mainly because it will be stiffer. The threads reduce the diameter of the rod from .625" to .5069" at the base of the threads making it much more likely to bend.

I threw away the rule book when adapting the standard blade to the '60 Lo-Boy, preferring to work with what I had.

[Jim Becker]

The problem with the bolt bending is worse with the first 2 versions of the blade than it is with the later 54 or the 54A because they lacked the outboard lifting lever support on the hanger. I haven't done any experiments to prove it, but it seems to me that having the bolt tightened firmly against the bushing would do more towards keeping it from bending than having the extra diameter of the rod over that of the bolt threads. Of course, one could have the best of both by simply sticking the bolt in the other way, with the nut on the left. That way you would get the full diameter of the shank of the bolt plus the ability to tighten the nut adequately.

[WKPoor]

I sold the blade a couple of yrs ago so there is no chance of pics. I enlisted Earl's help on the idea. He drilled a nice close tolerance hole clear throught the one piece plastic, a nice slip fit though. And possibly there wasn't much slop in the metal either. A washer and a lynch pin on both sides and I was good to go. It worked well for me for several winters. Would be even better if the metal had welded bosses to help hold things in alignment.

[CTdave]

Congrats on #2. I had the same problem of only having one. After just one month, I found #2