How Not To Do Hydraulics !

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How Not To Do Hydraulics !

Postby Rudi » Wed Apr 25, 2007 4:48 pm

Well,

I have been playing with my hydraulic project trying to become somewhat learned in this arcane art, which so far has eluded me. But, with Rick's help, I am getting there. In fact, I actually had Ellie up and running yesterday after I finally got the nerve to remove the manifold and put in the by-pass block. For those of you who are mechanically inclined/experienced, this may not seem like much of a big deal, but I am NOT by any stretch of the imagination a mechanic, much less a backyard mechanic. So stuff like this is like trying to talk to my nephew.. (he is Greek btw... and his english is as bad as my Greek), yeah, Greek to me :!: :roll: :wink: :shock: :D

After struggling with getting the manifold lined up, and the bolts all threaded etc., I checked all of my connections, double checked with Rick to make sure that I wouldn't deadend the system and destroy my Touch Control and Hydraulic Pump, thereby necessitating a complete engine rebuild... :shock: :shock: :roll: :oops: :roll: :!: Started Ellie up and cycled the touch control.

Eureka :!: It worked. I was pretty pleased with my self. I have quick connects all set up in the circuit so that plugging in the cylinder for the blade will be easy and of course plugging in the circuit for the secondary valve for the splitter will be just as easy.

Then comes the :oops: :oops: :oops: part :!:

I accidentially hit the lever for the Cessna Valve. I effectively deadended the system. I hear a huge POP, and immediately witnessed this fierce stream of Hy-Tran Image blowing out toward the front of Ellie.

I thought for sure I killed her :!:

Thankfully this is what happened:

Image

I blew the side out of the gasket :!:

Rick helped again. He explained to me what I had inadvertantly done. I called Princess and ordered up a foot long jumper to complete the circuit and prevent accidental deadending in the future.

Then, I proceeded to redo the gaskets. All went well.Learned that it is far easier to take the Hydraulic Pump bolts out versus wrestling with the manifold trying to line everything up. This time it took me about 10 minutes to replace the gaskets instead of the hour it took me last night as I wrestled with the lines, manifold, by-pass block, 2 gaskets and 3 bolts. Whew.. tuckers me out just thinking about it. Got it all together. As I was tightening up the 3rd and last bolt in the manifold and just prior to getting the nerve to fire her up again, :roll: click :oops: :roll: :shock: :!: ahhhhhhhhhh I snapped a bolt. Wasn't paying attention when I got the bolts, and instead of the Grade 5 or preferably Grade 8 5/16"-18NC bolts I got Grade 2. Seems I bottomed out in the Reservoir housing and snapped the bolt. Darn.. overlooked checking the depth of the bolt holes. I used 2-1/2" instead of 2-1/4" bolts. 2" are not enough.. so had to go higher.

This is what I now have to play with....

Image Image

So, I guess the next step is to find the EXACT center of the shorn bolt, punch and very, very carefully drill it out. And cross my fingers that I do not screw this up again.....

Dang, it ain't no fun when you do stoooopid stuff :? :shock: :roll: :oops: :roll: :cry:

More pics at 11 or whenever I get this fixed.. :roll:
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Postby beaconlight » Wed Apr 25, 2007 4:55 pm

Hey Rudi you taking my job over? I thought it was my job to screw things up.
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Postby Cecil » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:13 pm

Rudi, go get a left handed drill bit before you start drilling. I'll bet before you get to far into the bolt it will back right out. I'll try to call you tonight and talk.
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Postby WKPoor » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:19 pm

:lol: :lol: :lol: You don't have any real problems till you break off an easy out or tap in a hole. Don't ask me how I know. Your problems go from bad to worse. :cry:
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Postby KETCHAM » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:23 pm

Sounds like you are having all the fun.I just went to work today :? .Kevin PS good luck on the bolt,I don't use any grade 2 not strong enough for anything
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Postby Rick Prentice » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:36 pm

Rudi, you realize this will be a great "How-To" that we're all waiting to read. Take your time, you can do this.

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Postby spiveyman » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:58 pm

Stupid is my middle name! That's nothing! Hope you can get it fixed with no more problems :( . talk to ya tonight! :D
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Postby Jim Becker » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:45 pm

Rick(billyandmillie) wrote:Rudi, you realize this will be a great "How-To" that we're all waiting to read. Take your time, you can do this.

Rick

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how not to do hydraulics

Postby Pete1941 » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:49 pm

Man!!!! and I thought a rockshaft and a loose brake drum was a serious problem!! Now i'm sitting on top of the world after looking at Rudi's problem. Halleujah, Pete
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Postby Larry in IN » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:53 pm

Rudi -
Not that it is any surprise to you, :shock:
Murphy's is the ruling law of the universe :!: :(
Just think how much more you will know when this is all behind you :!: :lol: :wink:
Next rule - read my tag line again.
You'll get ther with the help available to all of us :)
G'luck!

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Postby Rudi » Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:00 pm

Yup, I know. I only use grade 2 for shear pins. Why it got mixed up in my pile I don't know.. but it did. Now I gotta grin and learn.

Rick, so far it is making a great How NOT To Do Hydraulics... but you are probably right. Will just take my time. I am sitting back tonight, not worrying about it. I sure am learning a heck of a lot real fast.. :roll: :wink: :D

Cecil, yup, they are on my shopping list for tomorrow :!: Canada Trash doesn't have any left handed bits. Gonna have to go see me buddy Dana at Maritime Fasteners.. I did however get some new bits and a new item from Canada Trash... they are a type of extractor but NOT an easy out. I hate them things. IF the standard bit doesn't work, gonna try left handed bits. IF that don't work then the new extractor will be it I think.. and yes I will be on ok?

Course I gotta do the Appeal thing in Fredericton tomorrow, so that will take up most of my day and all of my energy, unfortunately.

Andrew, nope, you done good considering you only got that Cub in the fall and you totally rebuilt it. That definitely rules out that middle name... and Bill, you have taught us all a lot.. I come by screwing up genetically :lol: :lol: :!:

Bill, I am not going to use one of them easy outs. I was smart and pitched em a couple years ago, right after I watched one snap off on me -- I don't think I could do that again.

So far I have a fair amount of pics spanning a few nights working on this project. I imagine I will be taking more... even the screwups... got lots of those..
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Postby Donny M » Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:17 pm

Rudi,

Depending on how much of the bolt is sticking out of the block, you could take a Dremel tool with a reinforced cutoff wheel (Thanks Russ :lol: ) and cut a screwdriver slot in the sheared bolt. It's worth a try since steel chips and hydraulics don't mix :lol: :lol:
8)

PS
Just tried this on a 5/16 bolt and the smaller dia. of cutoff wheel the better.
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Postby flag » Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:45 pm

Do you have to purchase a new gasket or can you DIY and use gasket material and punch out the holes?
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Postby George Willer » Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:55 pm

Rudi,

Run this idea through your thinking machine and tell me what you think. Since the broken stub has one complete thread you may be able to use it to advantage. Find a piece of thick steel and using your drill press drill a 5/16" hole just deep enough to fit over the stub. Then using the dimple in the bottom of the hole drill the rest of the way through with a 1/4" drill. Now you have a self centering drill guide that can be used to drill the stub out to tapping size for 5/16" and it should be square with the world and only leave the thread. You can easily pick the remainder out enough to then clean the hole with a tap.

If you wrap the drill bit with a round of masking tape and push it through the drill guide into one of the other holes to the bottom the tape will peel back and you'll have a good indicator to tell you when to stop drilling.

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Postby JimT » Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:10 pm

Rudi,

You can take some thin wood or plywood, 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick and make a template that you can use the other two bolt holes and place the template on the side of the touch control to cover up the hydralic holes to keep from getting metal in them. I have done this on other parts to keep paint and debris out of parts that I was cleaning and painting. Just a thought. Below are some of the covers I have made to keep junk out from where it doesn't belong.

Image

Image

Image

You can use the gasket for the touch control to make your wood template. Just make the broken bolt hole bigger to be able to have room to work on it.

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