Wed Jan 28, 2004 8:37 am
Hey Rudi, do you have a manual showing a carb rebuild/maintenance?
I think once I get my Cub this spring that will be one area I may need to look into. As well as changing all the fluids, but I would think that would be in one of the "top three" manuals I plan to order.
Wed Jan 28, 2004 10:21 am
Thanks Jim, I'll start studying!
Wed Jan 28, 2004 1:19 pm
Thanks for the pointer, can always count on you to find the right spot to look. Would have taken me a while to remember where all that stuff is.
Rebuilding the carb is not all that difficult. I know, I can do it, so anybody can
All I had to work from was the diagram.
Hope all goes well.
Wed Jan 28, 2004 4:16 pm
There is allot more to fixing the Cub carb. than cleaning and putting in a kit. If I could write instructions like George Willer I would try it. He knows what they need. I fixed mine with post he had made and I never ever turn off the gas. Needs different needle and seat than what comes in the kit. Top and bottom need to be made to fit flush. Sealer on the fiber washes inside. Not much apply with tooth pick. Check float level with tube from bottom up the side. Float must not hang on gasket or anything else. If some one will write it Rudi will put it on the server. Hint Hint.
Wed Jan 28, 2004 4:25 pm
Dec. 02 George's post
Lots of info in the archives
Yes, I've had the problem...and it can drive you nuts!!! The problems I found...leakage past either the needle seat *gasket* (which will bypass the float valve), or the load nozzle *gasket* (which is below the fuel level in the bowl). It took low pressure air on the inverted carb top and soap solution in a squirt bottle to find the leaks...not at all what you would expect. The air pressure will only check the seat gasket, but I used teflon sealer on both gaskets.
I recently cured two cronic leakers by this method. I plan to try it on others that leak a little.
The gaskets are very hard, and the sealing surfaces on these old carburetors can be a little corroded.
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