Farmall Cub

Hi people. Jim Jim, John, Rudi and anybody else that helped me get my wiring problem on my cub fixed. tonite I finally got sparked up. My problem was my ammeter wasn't working. I had power going in to the ammeter but none going out of it to the other places that needed power.It ran beutifully...... for a minute. Now it will run for 10 to 15 seconds then quit. I don't have the hood on it for the tank. I just jimmed up a aux fuel can with a plastic line to the carb. My carb was just cleaned and a kit put into it from the case dealership. I closed the idle screw and then opened it one turn and can't do the adjustment on the gov untill it warms up. It won't stay running long enough to get warmed up!! Tomorrow nite I will take a spray bottle with some gas and start it again and when it goes to quit, spray some gas in the carb to see if it keeps running. Then I know if it is a fuel problem. If that doesn't fix it, I will take an extra plug and ground it on the head somewhere and see if when it stops the spark gives up first. If this does not work or give me some insight on things there is going to be a tracter stripped for parts!!!!!
Is there anything else anybody would try other than what I had mentioned?

Mike

Before using the spray bottle, loosen the cap on your auxillary tank to make sure you aren't getting a vaccum lock (no fuel due to vent being plugged). When using the spray bottle, be very careful, a backfire, or stray static spark could make life exciting. If it should turn out to be electrical, a coil has been known to cause a problem with running a brief tiem, and then quitting.

Mike,

I would do just as you plan, except that I would use aerosol starting fluid instead of gas for safety reasons. All you need to isolate the problem is any response at all to the ether.

Interestingly, I just drove another Cub for the first time today on a freshly revived engine using a temporary tank. It's always a good feeling when they run well! It no longer smokes like a locomotive, so it was worth all the work.

Good luck.

Hi guy's! George, I took your advise and used ether instead of the gas. My problem is a fuel problem. Its had a new kit and been overhauled at the case IH dealer. What would be my next step?

Mike

Mike,

It works best to take things in steps. That test narrowed things down a bit.

Next step... remove the 1/8" pipe plug from the bottom of the carburetor. See if the steady flow continues after the contents of the float bowl have been drained. You may have a partially clogged screen at the inlet fitting.

George, Is this a screen in the Carb itself? I just have an aux fuel tank hoisted up in the air with a plastic line going directly to the carb from the tank. No screen or filters. This can is very clean so I'm not afraid of any dirt getting to the carb. Is this what you mean?

Mike

Maritimer, there is a screen where the fuel line enters the carb. As someone else (John Puckett I think) mentioned, try removing or loosening the cap on your temporary tank. It may not be able to vent quickly enough to supply gas to the cub.

Mike:

Take a gander at this:



It is item #21 - Part Number : 251 294 R1 Screen Strainer, and can be found on page 12 of Group 12 in the TC-37F Parts Catalogue.

Your CaseIH dealer I think it would be Van Oostrom who would be closest has/or can get the strainer real quick and it is pretty cheap. I had mine in 2 days from Babineau here in Moncton, and I think they now stock them as there are a bunch of us Cub nuts here in the Tri-City.

Hope this helps some....

Maritimer wrote:George, Is this a screen in the Carb itself? I just have an aux fuel tank hoisted up in the air with a plastic line going directly to the carb from the tank. No screen or filters. This can is very clean so I'm not afraid of any dirt getting to the carb. Is this what you mean?

Mike

Mike,

Yes, as Rudi showed on the parts list. The drawing doesn't show the location clearly, but it is inside the inlet. It is easily visible in good light. Sometimes they are plugged with what looks strangely like hard water deposits.

That might of did it guy's. I got it running so it will stay running. Now I just have to adjust the idle screw and the gov screw to get it running good. One thing I did learn is not to buy a tractor that is dismantled. This tractor was totally dismantled when I took it. I did the valves, put new main and rod bearings in, The rings were good. He said that the engine ran fine when he took it apart, it just smoked a bit. The problem was the valves. Now it does not smoke, but has a small knock in it. I plastic gauged the crank. All was well, except the rod bearings were a bit loose and the guy who helped me put it togeather said this was ok. Long story short, I know were there is a complete motor that was suposed to be redone two years ago, its nice and clean and worked well when it was in the other tractor. $400 is the price on it. Should I buy it or how much would it cost to take mine somewhere and get the rod surfaces ground and back together. Which would be better for me? I already spent $400 on this one. Gasket kit, valves, main and rod bearings.

Mike

Buy the engine for $400 and then finish the one you now have for your next cub. (Gee! I'm starting to sound like George Willer!)

maritimer, right in the ball-park of $100 will turn your crank, and I think it is about another $60 for the bearings.

Ya Just never know" There was someone not to long ago that thought he had a rod knock, Turned out to be the head gasket. The piston was hitting the edge.

I agree with Bigdog!!! Get the other engine and save the one you have now for another time, besides one can't have too many things to tinker on.