This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link:
Privacy Policy

NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.

Fan Drive Pulley removal and installation

The Cub Club -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
User avatar
Steve Ruddy
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 178
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2004 2:16 pm
Location: Guerneville CA
Contact:

Fan Drive Pulley removal and installation

Postby Steve Ruddy » Thu Mar 04, 2004 8:25 pm

Looking at the service manual I don't have the fan drive pulley removing, or installing tools. Can I fabricate something myself? Also anything I should pay particular attention too? This is the first in probably a few questions relating to engine disassembly and rebuild thanks in advance.
Steve Ruddy
Guerneville CA

SPONSOR AD

Sponsor



Sponsor
 

User avatar
Jim Hudson
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1224
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 1:11 pm
Zip Code: 28001
Location: Albemarle, North Carolina 28001

Postby Jim Hudson » Thu Mar 04, 2004 8:33 pm

Don't pull from pully edge. It will break. Must pull from near hub. Lots of folks have made something. A bearing splitter behind with a puller fasten to it works best. It will be on tight. Heat helps along with waiting.
Image
Young man for work, old man for advice

User avatar
Brent
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1055
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2003 9:21 am
Zip Code: 93510
Location: Acton Ca.

Postby Brent » Sat Mar 06, 2004 12:26 am

Steve, Here's another idea I copied from someone on this board. It worked for me. it's hard to see but the tool behind the pulley is also a bearing seperator.

Image
Always try the easiest thing first.

User avatar
EZ
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1185
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 6:33 pm
Zip Code: P0M1Z0
Tractors Owned: 49 Cub
67 International Cub Loboy
57 Farmall 130
Location: Northern Ontario

Postby EZ » Sat Mar 06, 2004 8:34 am

Brent,

That is an excellent idea!
Why didn't I think of that?
I did use a similar setup using a long 1" threaded bolt instead of a hyd. jack. The bearing splitter works well with this setup.

Mine is soon ready to go back on with a new seal and a jiffy sleeve.
Just Do It !

User avatar
Bill V in Md
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1109
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:51 pm
Zip Code: 21228
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
LT1045 Cub Cadet
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Catonsville
Contact:

Crankshaft Pulley Removal

Postby Bill V in Md » Sat Mar 06, 2004 9:27 am

I removed my pulley recently. Don't forget the bolt for the puller to push against (1/2" - 13). Also, don't forget to be patient and use generous portions of your favorite penetrating lubricant. I wasn't in a big rush, so it took me 3-4 days. A couple of turns, spray and wait. It will come off. I suppose heat could be used to speed up the process.
Image
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Circle of Safety

User avatar
Jim Hudson
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1224
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 1:11 pm
Zip Code: 28001
Location: Albemarle, North Carolina 28001

Postby Jim Hudson » Sat Mar 06, 2004 10:00 am

Rudi,
Bills picture titled, how to get your pulley off should be on your site. A picture is worth a thousand words.
Young man for work, old man for advice

User avatar
Rudi
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
Posts: 28706
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 8:37 pm
Zip Code: E1A7J3
Skype Name: R.H. "Rudi" Saueracker, SSM
Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub "Granny"
1948 Cub "Ellie-Mae"
1968 Cub Lo-Boy
Dad's Putt-Putt
IH 129 CC
McCormick 100 Manure Spreader
McCormick 100-H Manure Spreader
Post Hole Digger
M-H #1 Potato Digger
Circle of Safety: Y
Twitter ID: Rudi Saueracker, SSM
Location: NB Dieppe, Canada
Contact:

Postby Rudi » Sat Mar 06, 2004 12:37 pm

Jim:

Exellent idea. I am going to ask both to write up a small article on constructing these pullers.

I see also that the separator is on sale at Princess Auto, so I am going to go buy one!
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship


User avatar
Steve Ruddy
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 178
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2004 2:16 pm
Location: Guerneville CA
Contact:

Postby Steve Ruddy » Sat Mar 06, 2004 5:11 pm

OK I tried to remove mine today with no success. I found the bearing seperator but all the photos show two bolts or rods attaching to it with a metal support and center turning devise. Mine didn't come with this it only has 2 theraded holes were somthing like this can be attached. What is this seperate item called. I tried to substitute with a 6" two jaw puller and it just goes sideways on me. Also what is a good penatrating oil WD40 doesn't seem to work well. Oh also I had to remove my timing pointer. This wasn't mentioned but seems necessary. It was just pressed into place so I kept working with it until it came out. I hope this was allright.
Steve Ruddy

Guerneville CA

User avatar
Steve Ruddy
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 178
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2004 2:16 pm
Location: Guerneville CA
Contact:

Postby Steve Ruddy » Sat Mar 06, 2004 7:03 pm

Well to answer my own question it appears you can buy a bearing seperator set which includes the parts I'm missing. It looks like Harbor Freight and Tool where I purchased mine only sells the seperator by itself. Does anyone know where I can purchase the set?
Steve Ruddy

Guerneville CA

User avatar
Bill V in Md
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1109
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:51 pm
Zip Code: 21228
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
LT1045 Cub Cadet
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Catonsville
Contact:

Bearing Separator

Postby Bill V in Md » Sat Mar 06, 2004 7:29 pm

Try JC Whitney Automotive Tools. I purchased their gear puller set part no. 81ZX2372T. If I had it to do over again, I would buy a little larger bearing separator, because the one provided in this set was barely adequate to do the job. I had to buy longer bolts for the separator so the bolts for the gear puller arms could be spread out such that they do not interfere with the outside pulley flanges. Good Luck
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Circle of Safety

User avatar
Bill V in Md
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1109
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:51 pm
Zip Code: 21228
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
LT1045 Cub Cadet
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Catonsville
Contact:

Postby Bill V in Md » Sat Mar 06, 2004 8:26 pm

Steve, for penetrating oil try PB Blaster or Kroil. Also, in one of your earlier posts you mentioned that you had to remove the timing pointer. I was able to position the bearing separator such that it did not interfere with the timing pointer. However my bearing separator was barely large enough to get the job done - maybe that was the difference. In any event, I don't see a problem with removing the pointer if it is necessary.
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Circle of Safety

User avatar
Steve Ruddy
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 178
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2004 2:16 pm
Location: Guerneville CA
Contact:

Postby Steve Ruddy » Sat Mar 06, 2004 9:17 pm

Bill,

I looked at the seperator you bought at JC Whitney and it's a .5-4.5" size. All I could find doing a search was this one http://www.jmtools.com/details.asp?Itemid=07-7035 ut it doesn't specify size I guess I'll call on Monday.
Steve Ruddy

Guerneville CA

User avatar
Steve Ruddy
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 178
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2004 2:16 pm
Location: Guerneville CA
Contact:

Postby Steve Ruddy » Fri Mar 12, 2004 7:40 pm

I finally got it off! Thanks to all who replyed. Here are a few words on what I ended up doing. First of all I could not find a bearing puller which included pull bar and driver bolt so I bought the large size bearing puller from Harbor Freight and Tool and a 5U729 Puller Variable Reach from Grainger. Then I had to buy 2 x 6" bolts with washers and nuts to complete the puller assembly. All these parts cost me over $70 so you may want to go with the puller Bill used even though he thought it should be bigger. One thing that wasn't mentioned was you will need a 5" long 1/2 30 bolt to screw into the crankshaft end to drive the puller against. I was just about to give up when I heard a snap! I though something broke but it was just the pully sarting to come off. I hope putting it back on is a little easier!
Steve Ruddy

Guerneville CA

WKPoor
10+ Years
10+ Years

Postby WKPoor » Sat Mar 13, 2004 9:56 pm

Steve; Here is what my machinist has come up with. He borrowed some ideas from the forum. This tool doesn't require removal of the pointer as with the bearing seperator. Used it today and it worked fine. Didn't even put a scratch on the pulley. To install simply remove the jack and allthread will fit through the drilled hole in the center of the plate.
ImageImage

User avatar
Bill V in Md
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1109
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:51 pm
Zip Code: 21228
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
LT1045 Cub Cadet
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Catonsville
Contact:

Pulley Removal

Postby Bill V in Md » Sun Mar 14, 2004 8:10 am

WKPoor,

Patent Pending? Very Clever idea, but cost may be prohibitive.............Bill V.
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Circle of Safety


Return to “Farmall Cub”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Majestic-12 [Bot] and 26 guests