Farmall Cub

Looking at the service manual I don't have the fan drive pulley removing, or installing tools. Can I fabricate something myself? Also anything I should pay particular attention too? This is the first in probably a few questions relating to engine disassembly and rebuild thanks in advance.

Don't pull from pully edge. It will break. Must pull from near hub. Lots of folks have made something. A bearing splitter behind with a puller fasten to it works best. It will be on tight. Heat helps along with waiting.

Steve, Here's another idea I copied from someone on this board. It worked for me. it's hard to see but the tool behind the pulley is also a bearing seperator.

Brent,

That is an excellent idea!
Why didn't I think of that?
I did use a similar setup using a long 1" threaded bolt instead of a hyd. jack. The bearing splitter works well with this setup.

Mine is soon ready to go back on with a new seal and a jiffy sleeve.

I removed my pulley recently. Don't forget the bolt for the puller to push against (1/2" - 13). Also, don't forget to be patient and use generous portions of your favorite penetrating lubricant. I wasn't in a big rush, so it took me 3-4 days. A couple of turns, spray and wait. It will come off. I suppose heat could be used to speed up the process.

Rudi,
Bills picture titled, how to get your pulley off should be on your site. A picture is worth a thousand words.

Jim:

Exellent idea. I am going to ask both to write up a small article on constructing these pullers.

I see also that the separator is on sale at Princess Auto, so I am going to go buy one!

OK I tried to remove mine today with no success. I found the bearing seperator but all the photos show two bolts or rods attaching to it with a metal support and center turning devise. Mine didn't come with this it only has 2 theraded holes were somthing like this can be attached. What is this seperate item called. I tried to substitute with a 6" two jaw puller and it just goes sideways on me. Also what is a good penatrating oil WD40 doesn't seem to work well. Oh also I had to remove my timing pointer. This wasn't mentioned but seems necessary. It was just pressed into place so I kept working with it until it came out. I hope this was allright.

Well to answer my own question it appears you can buy a bearing seperator set which includes the parts I'm missing. It looks like Harbor Freight and Tool where I purchased mine only sells the seperator by itself. Does anyone know where I can purchase the set?

Try JC Whitney Automotive Tools. I purchased their gear puller set part no. 81ZX2372T. If I had it to do over again, I would buy a little larger bearing separator, because the one provided in this set was barely adequate to do the job. I had to buy longer bolts for the separator so the bolts for the gear puller arms could be spread out such that they do not interfere with the outside pulley flanges. Good Luck

Steve, for penetrating oil try PB Blaster or Kroil. Also, in one of your earlier posts you mentioned that you had to remove the timing pointer. I was able to position the bearing separator such that it did not interfere with the timing pointer. However my bearing separator was barely large enough to get the job done - maybe that was the difference. In any event, I don't see a problem with removing the pointer if it is necessary.

Bill,

I looked at the seperator you bought at JC Whitney and it's a .5-4.5" size. All I could find doing a search was this one http://www.jmtools.com/details.asp?Itemid=07-7035 ut it doesn't specify size I guess I'll call on Monday.

I finally got it off! Thanks to all who replyed. Here are a few words on what I ended up doing. First of all I could not find a bearing puller which included pull bar and driver bolt so I bought the large size bearing puller from Harbor Freight and Tool and a 5U729 Puller Variable Reach from Grainger. Then I had to buy 2 x 6" bolts with washers and nuts to complete the puller assembly. All these parts cost me over $70 so you may want to go with the puller Bill used even though he thought it should be bigger. One thing that wasn't mentioned was you will need a 5" long 1/2 30 bolt to screw into the crankshaft end to drive the puller against. I was just about to give up when I heard a snap! I though something broke but it was just the pully sarting to come off. I hope putting it back on is a little easier!

Steve; Here is what my machinist has come up with. He borrowed some ideas from the forum. This tool doesn't require removal of the pointer as with the bearing seperator. Used it today and it worked fine. Didn't even put a scratch on the pulley. To install simply remove the jack and allthread will fit through the drilled hole in the center of the plate.

WKPoor,

Patent Pending? Very Clever idea, but cost may be prohibitive.............Bill V.